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2003 Chrysler Sebring 2.4 L engine bogs down to near stall on takeoff

 
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JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
01:23 PM

Started happening only in winter. I turned off car and immediately tried to start it and it ran rough like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. I turned it back off and it wouldn't start until it sat for several hours.
Now it's July and weather is warm. I start car and go to take off but car bogs down as if it is about to stall.I keep my foot on gas and car barely responds but then it picks up and accelerates. This is the case whether I keep my foot on the gas pedal or ease off and on. When this happens, I sense a slight gasoline door inside the vehicle. It's as if one or more cylinders aren't firing. Once the car gets going it doesn't reoccur until I shut the car back off and wait a few minutes. It doesn't happen all the time and it does happen when engine is still warm but mostly when engine is cold. The spark plugs are new and coil gives spark on all four terminals when I pull off plug wires one at a time while engine is running. The plug wires are original. Could THEY be the cause? Could it be a vacuum or pressure leak that lessens as engine warms up? Could this be water in my fuel? Could I have a bad ground somewhere? The engine always accelerates well at highway speeds. PLEASE HELP!




 

Just Try It1 Just Try It1
Moderator | Posts: 2073 | Joined: 08/14
Posted: 07/30/15
01:41 PM

gasoline fumes are important to find the LEAK.. a friend with a 2004 intrepid had a leak.. his fuel pump module that goes into the top of the tank was cracked.. i never saw it but i did smell it..  a new fuel pump module fixed the issue..

it could be other things also.. the wonderful nylon fuel line sections that are crimped to the steel tubes under the car can leak also.  as can the fuel injectors at the fuel rail on the engine..  all cars have possible leaks..

a good shop will have a machine that connects to the gas filler neck with the cap removed.. it will allow in some Nitrogen which is inert gas vapor into the fuel tank with the hose pinched off at the front to see if there is a leak.. the machine checks for leaks by monitoring the tiny amount of pressure the machine pumps into your fuel tank..  other shops will have a hand pump device..  

a visual inspection is really important.

lets find out what codes you have... really simple on a chrysler.. turn the key on without starting the motor..  so the dash lights come on..  then quickly .. turn the KEY OFF. On. Off, On, Off, On..  three times ON within 4 seconds will get the Odometer to change from miles driven to trouble codes.. if there are NONE it will say DONE.. write down all the codes.. P0000 to P2999 and any others.  post them.

if you can lay your hands on a handheld digital volt meter.. i would really like you to drag this image to your computer or just right click and print it.. then perform it on your car..  post the results by number..

Wmdprhm  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
01:56 PM

P0138 and P0031  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
02:05 PM

Happening while in park and idling......Rpms go down to 500  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
02:24 PM

The gas odor happens only when I have this problem and I must add the windows were open. I believe the odor comes from the exhaust because unburned fuel is getting through. The trouble codes I posted apparently point to a problem with my oxygen sensors but this does not happen to a hot engine and goes away once the episode runs its course.  Another possible cause I found is an air intake leak which I find plausible since a hot engine could cause materials to expand, closing the leak somewhat. What do you think?  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
02:27 PM

Stupid autocomplete on Ipad......please ignore typos  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
02:27 PM

I just went for a drive around the neighbourhood and I've been parked for several minutes. Rpm is steady at 700. When I started it to go for the ride, it happened...so I put it in park and let it idle....the Rpms were around 400 and car wanted to die until I played with gas pedal and Rpms went back to normal. It's been running since with no problem  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 07/30/15
02:35 PM

I will let it sit for a while to cool down. I'll bet that's when it will reoccur  

Just Try It1 Just Try It1
Moderator | Posts: 2073 | Joined: 08/14
Posted: 07/30/15
06:13 PM

i dropped you an email with some links you will want to open and download to assist you..


P0138-1/2 O2 SENSOR SHORTED TO VOLTAGE
When Monitored: The engine running for 119 seconds. Battery voltage greater than 10
volts. Coolant temperature above 80°C (176°F).
Set Condition: The Oxygen Sensor voltage is above 1.29 volts for 30 seconds. Two trip
fault.

P0031 O2 sensor 1/1 Heater Circuit Shorted condition detected in the oxygen sensor heater

this is strange.. it could be several issues.

you could have lost a ground connection to the oxygen sensors heater circuit.

you could also have wiring harness damage where its come off its mounting points and rubbed against something.

i opened the harness on the 04 intrepid.. to repair it.. found it had already had CRUMBY repairs performed.

you will want to use an OBD2 scan tool to observe the oxygen sensor voltages for Oxygen sensor Bank 1 sensor 1.. and oxygen sensor Bank 1 sensor 2..

you will need to NOTE Splice 135 connector 111 and Ground G103.



G103 is the ground connection to the drivers side inner frame rail..  you can see the negative battery cable connection on the drivers side strut tower.. if you follow around the strut tower till you are evenly between the two strut towers.. then probably 14 or 16 inches down.  is G103.  its probably directly over the front cv shaft. if that helps..  i don't know if you are going to reach this from the top..


on the 4 cylinder motor the  down stream oxygen sensor seems to be grounded directly to G103..

the upstream sensor is grounded thru the PCM.. hmm..  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 08/04/15
11:37 AM

Don't have access to obd2 tool. I have a suspicion this could be the ecm...since 1 of the trouble codes suggests that in addition to an oxygen sensor it could bee cm. it doesn't always happen but it seem to happen mostly when it's damp or humid...and once it happens, it won't re-occur until to car is shut off and restarted after a few minutes. Again...this happens almost always when it is damp outside  

Just Try It1 Just Try It1
Moderator | Posts: 2073 | Joined: 08/14
Posted: 08/04/15
01:42 PM

the only way you are going to be able to diagnose this is with some kind of scan tool.. other than that and you are JUST GUESSING..  you are welcome to start changing parts..

this is one scan tool..

http://www.harborfreight.com/obd-ii-can-professional-scan-tool-60694.html

you also have your option of an ELM327... if you have an Iphone or IPad.. you will need to use the slightly more expensive wifi version..  the blue tooth won't work with the apple products..  


http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=obd+elm327&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=1102655321&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6311284635246585446&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_5l7db9njl0_b

did you get something in your email..  some links..  

JPBonhomme JPBonhomme
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 07/15
Posted: 08/05/15
10:50 AM

Didn't get email....gonna check the links.  

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