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Normally, when my sister puts gas her truck she used the highest premium gas with a higher octane. Many told us its the best thing to do for a corroborated vehicle. My question is, would it be even better to use the gas you see some times at gas station that says its for older vehicles , and mowers that has no ethanol alcohol in it and has a high octane.
For a while we were using the low octane and the truck just didn't work as good. Her truck has an issue anyway. When we start the truck after been sitting for while it likes to die and When she first starts driving, the truck hesitate when we are pushing the gas and not go hardly. likes there's a clog or something. We have to be careful when taking off from red lights and stuff. almost like there's a clog somewhere and gas isn't getting in the engine or something.  

first....  1982 trucks had several motors...

you could have a straight six...  a 305.. a 350.. probably a 400 small block... a 454...


82 chevy trucks also had several different fuel systems...

305, 350 engined  had a NON feedback fuel system.. that was a quadrajet carb with only one wire to the choke coil....

the 305 and 350 versions also had a non feed back as they called it but still had some kind of fuel control.. these were mostly canada models..  i live in california... don't have a clue of how they work..

and  some of them had full authority feed back fuel control systems...    with the single wire to the choke.. 2 wires to the top right above the mounting bolt..  3 wires to the drivers side front..   4 wires to a motor that moves the linkage... no vacuum advance... oxygen sensors.. detonation sensors in the side of the block..  these  feed back systems require at least a dwell meter...  to clip onto the green connector near the carb...   set the meter to six cylinder scale... observe the dwell reading.. don't sweat about the six cylinder scale.. the guys who first designed this and wrote the manuals set it up for V6 buick motors..

the neat thing.. if the feed back system and all its sensors and devices is working perfectly... with the 305 and keeping your foot out of it.. you can get really close to 20 MPG..  about 18 with the 350..   caprices could get 26 with a 305 and 23 with a 350... yep.. WOW mileage..  but these are some of the most complicated fuel systems ever devised.. they were changing each year..
i went to school on these.. so i know them very well...

the carbs were so complex.. they were individually flow adjusted on a 7 million dollar computerized bench tester...  each carb took about 7 minutes to properly adjust.. so it would be perfect when it was bolted on the assembled engines..

87 works...

89 works better.. usually when mixed with 87 half and half...    but 89 is usually a blend already of 87 and 91...  some stations do that...  to come out with 87..  i wonder what the actual blend ratio is in the pump..   makes you want to count the tank covers... and the types of fuels they sell.. if there are 3 tanks... and they sell 87, 89, 91  and diesel... the 89 is more than likely a blend..

87, 89, 91, are the resistance to ignite spontaneously .  the higher the number. the slower the burn rate also... as in flame front expanding from the spark...

describe your system...  look and see if the distributer has a vacuum advance...

see if the carb has a bunch of wires on it..

take a photo of the emission label.. and of the motor so i might be able to tell what you have..
lastly there is a big white sticker.. with rows of 3 digit numbers on it..  photograph that.. edit out the VIN number and post that to photobucket.. so i can figure out the RPO codes .. to see what fuel system...  

Where would i find the emission label at?? I'll take a picture of the motor to. Would you like the picture with or without the airfilter part on top?? The engine has also been rebuilt as well, so things might be a bit different.
 As stated above, one of the problems with the truck is that the truck likes to not accelerate when we push the gas down. It's most noticeable when we start the truck up after it's been of for a long time like when we go to work in the morning. We'll go to accelerate coming out of a turn or from a light and it sputters like there's a clog and the gas isin't getting where it's supposed to. It gets better the longer the truck is driven for.
 One time, I was coming out of my house leaving for work and went to turn and it started to do it's THING and i got frustrated and just pushed the gas pedal to the floor. Well, that got something lodged or something because then it got worse and the engine stooped working right and it started to idle REALLY rough. I'd stop at a stop sign or red light and it was Idling ROUGH! Then after a while, all of a sudden I felt something give, and the truck shoot forward like it got a boost of gas because something unclogged or whatever and then it drove normally and stopped Idling rough. Maybe a clogged filter or something.  

emission label could be on the air cleaner can.. or on the radiator core support..

the emissions label will have a vacuum diagram on one side...

please use care to properly tag the vacuum hoses.. before you attempt to remove the air cleaner body..  that year usually has a 3 or a 4 fitting device that is easily removed by pulling a U shaped clip..

if you mix those vacuum hoses up.. the engine sill run horribly..


the RPO label looks like this...

could be on an inner fender..

could be on the inside of the glove box

could be on the air filter lower half..

could be on the door jam..

 

waynep71222- Extremely helpful! Thanks man. Now where's the Like or Arrow up button in here?