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Hello, I am new here.

I have a 1997 Ford ranger XLT, 4 cylinder. Fuel injection.

About two months ago, I got a P1443 code on it.

I reset it with the code reader, and it would come on after awhile, and the last time, it reset itself, but then came on a few weeks ago.

Then a week ago, I started it, and drove a little ways, and then it stalled.
I was able to push it back to the driveway. It would not restart.

I then went about replacing parts related to the P1443, I replaced, the gas cap, the fuel filter, the fuel vapor purge valve, the purge valve sensor.

But the truck still won't start. I have a battery charger starter, but that didn't help.

I already checked the fuel pump and fuel pump relay, while I replaced the other parts, and those two are working.

I checked the inertia switch, and that is not tripped.

The starter works, it turns over. I had already changed the spark plugs about 3 months before, and the truck had run better with those.

The drive belt turns, when starting. The engine just wont crank.

I really never had any problem starting the truck before, or stalling.

Except, sometimes when it was hot, after I initially went out somewhere, and restarted it, it would do some kind of half start or incomplete start, and idle so low, that I would have to keep the gas on to keep it from stalling. But even if it stalled then, I could always restart it, and after driving awhile, it would jump back to normal idle.

That may or may not be related to the problem now.  

do you have SPARK when you hook a timing light over the spark plug wires?

can you hear the fuel pump turn on for 2 seconds when you turn the key on..?


does it start if the throttle is held part way open while cranking???



if the carbon build up around the throttle plate is enough to reduce the KNOWN bypass air around the blade... if the idle air control valve sticks.. and it will be full of carbon also...  the engine won't start unless you have your foot partially on the throttle..

remove the air duct to the throttle body...    hold the throttle open and wipe the bore with a shop towel.   most have a non stick coating that will come off if you use any kind of solvent..

you may have to spray something like brake cleaner onto the shop towel and wipe the bore.. and the blade faces...  don't use anything to scrape it.. just the towel...

if the idle air control valve is gummed up..  some you can take the 2 small screws out and clean.. but usually they fail soon after and need replacing.. they are a linear electric motor..  so instead of turning when voltage is increased.. it extends and pushes the air valve open allowing more bypass air.. this allows the computer to control the idle speed..  sending more voltage to the Idle air control valve cold to give the truck a fast idle and a lot of bypass air for cold starting..


the best way to check the fuel pressure is with a fuel pressure gauge... the fords use the same size thread as tires.. but a tire pressure gauge will not work as the valve core is very deep to PREVENT This...

Actron/0-100 PSI fuel pressure tester kit with Ford fuel line adapter  Part Number: CP7818  is the proper version for testing the fuel pressure on fords and many other cars..   except TBI gm cars..

i have run into several rangers.. that the pump would run.. but it would NOT pump fuel... so it became a NO start for lack of fuel pressure.. and its usually easier to lift off the bed of the truck.. except for the big long screws that ford used to hold the bed down..  

i have pulled the tanks from the bottom.. and pulled the bed..  even with 2 strong guys its easier to pull the bed... much easier with 4 guys..

tail lights come out.. disconnect wiring under the back of the bed..  take out the torx bolts.. buy 2 of the torx sockets..  spray the bottom side of the bolt with wd40 before trying to under it..


there are other things that can prevent the system engine from starting...


with an OBD2 system like you have... plugging in a scan tool and looking at the live data stream is an easy way after verifying the fuel pressure and the spark...  

Actually, it turned out to be the timing belt broke.

I have a timing kit, and will attempt to install it in the morning.  

Everything else was working, and I didn't know about the timing belt, until I peeled away the top of the cover and saw it wasn't even on the teeth.  

Is it possible to change out the timing belt without removing the serpentine belt?  

the serpentine belt takes only a few minutes to remove..

you will need to borrow a fan clutch wrench set to remove the fan clutch... i think...

the water pump pulley has to come off..

the crank pulleys.. i don't recall how much of a harmonic damper that motor has...  but i recall having to take off something... i will look around and see what i can find..

do you have any kind of repair manual... autozone  dot com has some free info if you join and log in..  

check this out..

http://www.autozone.com:80/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f802c54e1


how to replace the timing belt on the 2.3/2.5 motors...  

Yeah, I looked over the serpentine belt, and I can take it off.

I took pictures of the position of the belt, for when I re-install it.

With the AC compressor, the line going to it, that bridges over the belt area is already not connected to the compressor, I bought the Ranger with it in that condition, so I can move the compressor further out of the way, then if the line was connected with refrigerant.
After I get the tming belt fixed, I am going to see what I can do for AC.

I have the Haynes manual, which is good.

But it says to do stuff, like remove all the spark plugs, and listen through the holes to align the timing. But that is what the triangle, diamonds and notch markings are for.

A video I found, shows how to do it too, and he uses the markings to align the timing. But he still removed all the spark plugs before that, even though he doesn't do anything with them after that. maybe he read the manual and just did it, because they said to.
But I just changed the spark plugs a couple months ago, and it was a hassle, the way they got all 8 set up.

The link you put, goes right back to this thread, maybe they don't allow outside links.  

just click on it.. don't try to open it in a new window


or get to the autozone site.. at the top right of the page.. is a join and log in area.. its free...

once you have joined.  you have access to the repair info..

if you want GREAT info..  the AZ site has enough to do the job...

but.. go to eautorepair dot net   thats mitchell's professional system reduced slightly for consumer.. they have cheep 2 week subscriptions..  same info as the factory service manual...

click on my user name...   send me a private message with your direct email.. i will forward you a link that works.. actually several...   be sure to remind me what you need.. 97 ranger timing belt.. as i answer questions on a LOT of forums...  

Yeah, that worked.

I need to remove the crankshaft bolt. I have an impact wrench, but I would have to remove the radiator, to fit it in there.

Is there another way, I can't start the engine to do it, because the timing belt is broken.

Does the bolt loosen clockwise or counterclockwise.  

since the belt is broken...

you can wedge a strong breaker bar with a six point socket..  

lefty losee...

the crank turns to the right with the starter..

wedge the end of the breaker bar against the top drivers side frame rail....
or.. wedge it against the ground... with the breaker bar at a 4 o clock position from the crank...

be sure to leave just a tiny amount of free play...  so the starter gets the crank turning..

you will want to use a remote starter switch to bump the starter solenoid to get it to break the crank bolt loose...

please...   there are 2 fasteners holding the timing belt tensioner..   you have to loosen the pivot one slightly..  then the one in the slot slightly..  pry the adjuster back... hold it while you tighten the bolt in the slot to hold it back.. this frees the tension on the timing belt...   allows you to remove it. and to install it..

please... tighten the pivot fastener slightly.. loosen the slot fastener.. let it slide to the end.. take the slot fastener out.. you may have to hold it back slightly.. then release the pivot fastener.. this allows you to remove the tensioner assembly.. you can spin the bearing and listen to it.. if its noisy.. replace it..    usually they get replaced every 100K or so..

you will also want to inspect the water pump for signs of leakage from the weep hole.. and any slop in the bearing..  if so replace it..

the trick..   you have to set the tensioner in before the belt.. once you get both fasteners on it..  retract it all the way against the spring and lock it there by tightening the slot bolt..  

you will also want. at ALL TIMES if you have to turn the CAM... have the crank 45 degrees off TDC..  so the pistons are down..   probably won't hit on that motor. but you never know for sure..  

there is more info...

i will try to type it out in the morning...  

Yeah, awesome, actually the starter technique worked.

I have a big, thick ratchet extension, and put it like that against something.

I heard a bang when I engaged the starter. It was when the extension pushed against the already loose power steering assembly. But it loosened the bolt.

Now just getting the crankshaft pulley off, it seems to be stiff on there.

I seen one way where they have this three sided thing, and place it in there, with the bolt. But I don't have that.
Maybe I can hammer it off.  

rent or buy a harmonic balancer puller from almost any parts store

many have rental units .. look at the place mats on the counter top..

harbor freight sells several sets cheep also...  comes with most of the bolts you need..

look for discount coupons in your car magazines..