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Do i need to replace my clutch???

 
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n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978 n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978
User | Posts: 88 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 04/26/12
07:13 PM

Hey guys, I have a 2007 hyundai Elantra manual transmission and i think the clutch is bad and giving out on me. I'll let you all be the judge.
 My Hyundai has only 84,000 miles on it and surprises me that would have clutch problems already. Over the past month the shifting has become harder to do, needing more force to push it in and pull it out of gear. Also, when i try to put the gear in reverse there is always grinding. Only time there isn't grinding is when i first turn the car on and switch quickly to reverse.
 Also, I'm not sure if I'm imagining it or not but sometimes when I take off from a stop light, sign, or quickly up a steep driveway, I'll feel the car stall for a millisecond, engine reving, then a jolt and the car will shoot forward finally and go. Like it's just been put in gear. I guess you would call that gear slipping or something???
 Was reading my Haynes Manual and I did 2 test using the clutch. One was involving Clutch spin-down time, and the other to check for complete clutch failure. The test i did involved pushing clutch down and hold for couple seconds then shift in reverse and if grinding occurs it says that it's a sign of problem in pressure plate or clutch disc. Of course I failed that one because it always grind when putting it in reverse.
 The other one, which tested complete possible clutch failure, was to hold the clutch 1/2 inch from floor then shift gears between 1st and reverse several times. It said if the shift is rough then...well need i go further, lol. Hard to shift and grinding..
 Bummer, just bought the car of someone a month ago and this, lol. Don't want to jump the gun on this though. Don't want to assume its clutch failure without your guys advise. So, what would some of you seasoned Mech say could be the cause of this problem?? What test could i run to make sure before i pull the trans out of this thing because with this car that's what i have to do to reach the clutch.
 Thanks guys. You are blessing for helping the mechanic deficient.  

waynep71222 waynep71222
Guru | Posts: 825 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/26/12
10:07 PM

sounds like the clutch hydraulic release system is starting to fail....

think of a solid clutch linkage system...   you push the pedal..   the push rod.. a specific distance from the fulcrum/pivot point on the pedal..   moves a specific distance when you move the pedal from its upper stop to the floor..

instead of a solid linkage..  it pushes a hydraulic piston.  that moves a specific amount of fluid to another hydraulic cylinder.


so the clutch master displaces a specific amount of fluid..  this moves the piston in the clutch slave cylinder a specific distance..

this is all when everything works perfect..

when the clutch master or the clutch slave cylinder start to go bad..   they don't relay enough movement to fully release the clutch.. so it gets hard to shift..

which one is bad???????

before changing either.. please.. bleed the system several times with fresh fluid.. so there is NO contamination in the system to wipe out the new parts...  the rubber seals inside these are so soft.. that a single grain of sand can cut them..


as a side story.. a friend came by with a 1990 jeep wrangler..  or CJ  . what ever the model was back then..  it would grind going into reverse..  it was hard to shift..  i told him that the clutch master was probably bad.. as it was not loosing fluid..

but .. he thought the clutch its self was bad.. so.. several hundred dollars later..  he had someone else do the clutch.. and the input shaft mounted slave cylinder. it had the same problem..  when i removed the clutch master.. i found the top of the bore eaten away by the edge of the aluminum piston..    the angle of the push rod from the clutch pedal was at such an upward angle..  that it pushed the clutch piston upward at the beginning of its stroke and wore away the material.. so the master did not leak fluid.. but it did allow the fluid to bypass the pressure seal for part of the stroke and limited the amount of movement at the slave cylinder ..  this was an easy fix.. i actually found a brand of clutch master that was NOT aluminum.. but cast iron..  this prevented the return of the issue..  

waynep71222 waynep71222
Guru | Posts: 825 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/26/12
10:12 PM

you might want to price the parts around..

i just checked one of my local parts suppliers.. they show the master for 20 bucks or so.. the slave for about the same..

so its crazy to drop the transmission before changing these,,  

n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978 n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978
User | Posts: 88 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 04/27/12
05:23 AM

So, i should have a look at my clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder?? what signs of wear ,exactly, should i be looking at when taking them apart, looking at these two?  

waynep71222 waynep71222
Guru | Posts: 825 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 04/27/12
06:44 AM

log in.. check your messages to the left of where you log out at..


the idea of checking them visually... ???  since you probably cannot see the amount of stroke that is being transfered.. its called replace....   do check message.. ..  

440t4 440t4
Guru | Posts: 1009 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/27/12
11:22 AM

If the clutch pedal feels stiff and harder than normal to depress then it is most likely a bad pressure plate. If the clutch pedal feels normal or lighter than normal its probably hydraulic. There is also an outside chance that there is something wrong with the clutch fork.  

n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978 n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978
User | Posts: 88 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 04/27/12
04:03 PM

clutch feels normal to me, same amount of force it's always taken. I'm thinking about bringing it into Hyundai and let them do service on it. it will cost me about $150 to $200 but they can find out whats wrong a whole lot easyer. Then they can tell me and i'll fix it. How would i check for Hydraulic issues??  

440t4 440t4
Guru | Posts: 1009 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/27/12
04:55 PM

First thing is check the clutch master cylinder reservoir. As the clutch wears the hydraulic system gets bigger and needs more fluid. If the master cylinder gets too low you can get air in the system. The reservoir should be under the hood attached to the firewall right behind the steering wheel. If its low add fluid and pump the clutch pedal about 50 times it may come back without bleeding it. The other possibility is that you have a hydraulic oil leak in the clutch system. If its a small leak you can top off the reservoir periodically until you get it fixed. You can use regular brake fluid.  

n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978 n_e_w_d_u_d_e1978
User | Posts: 88 | Joined: 12/11
Posted: 04/27/12
05:34 PM

the 2007 hyundia elantra doesn't have a clutch reservoir. I looked for that thing for about an hour last week to try and find it and couldn't figure out why it wasn't where the book said it was. The book said it was near the brake master cylinder reservoir, on the firewall, which for OLDER Elantras it is. Couldn't find it so i called Hyundia the next day and they told me that the 2007 hyundai elantra doesn't have one and that the clutch is hydrolic. I thought it might share the brake master cylinder but it doesn't, I think, if i heard the person right.  

440t4 440t4
Guru | Posts: 1009 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/28/12
07:44 AM

The clutch master cylinder has to be sticking out of the firewall on the drivers side. It also has to have a hose coming out of it that goes to some source of hydraulic oil. Maybe it does share the brake master cylinder.If it does then i doubt it is low enough to cause your problem.  

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