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While trying to fix my radio I removed the knee panel, radio, and the control unit for my heat/ac. Once I removed the control unit whenever I turned on the car the fans would blow on high even though the unit wasn't plugged in. So I plugged the control unit back in and it doesn't even work anymore. It doesn't come on, no lights, and I can't adjust it at all. When I turn on the car the fans blow on high still and nothing I do turns them off because the control unit doesn't even light up.  

did you get the files open???

did you TURN OFF the key when you plugged the radio in...

did you probe any of the connectors while you had the system open. with the key on.????

engine off.. key off..   disconnect the battery..   yes i know its buried.. just one side is good..  wait 2 minutes..  hook it back up...    see it the stereo now works..   see if the cooling fans have returned..

don't touch the horn button..   is there a good fuse in the position #8 now.. horn????  

There is a good 20 amp fuse on #8, the horn relay fuse is good and if I take it out the fuse does not blow unless it's in (fuse 8 blows) I also found 2 horn speakers under my car near the very front of the engine/car and I unhooked them and that stopped me from being able to blow the fuse by pushing the honk button. However the radio still doesn't make any sound and now the fans won't turn off, I'm going to look into it some more tomorrow as I havn't hooked everything up. I did try unhooking the negative for about 15 minutes but the heater control unit is still messed up.  

does the car start????    start it.. let it run a minute...


shut it off...       from the OFF position.. turn the key to the RUN position then off..

OFF,   ON, OFF, ON, OFF, ON, off   ON................. this should make the power loss or check engine light flash codes..    it may display them on the odometer if you have a digital odometer..   write the codes all down..   post them.. look them up in the manual..

three times on within 10 seconds usually causes the system to display codes somehow..

i usually do 4 times on..   still works..

this is without cranking the engine..  

Nevermind I fixed the Heater unit. Radio still doesn't work though... I put the knee panel back on and everything is how it was before I tried fixing the radio.  

the radio is in section in 8F.


Horns are 8G


the stereo wiring diagrams are in section 8W.. starting at pdf page 120 of 202   you will probably want to print pages 120 to 129 ...

or 8W page LH75 to LH74   or just book mark those pages..  you can go to the print .. then select save as PDF  or save as PS .. just those pages.. then convert them back from a PS to a PDF file.. this will let you just have to page through what you need  

the amp is in the TRUNK..  

Not all of the files will open. 8f and 8g open but I can't open 8w it says the file is corrupted. According to 8f page 9 it says check pin 29 for ground, but I can't figure out where or what pin 29 even is...  

check your email..  8w should be there.  

Thank you, I can now read 8w... So I think I figured it out... Accordding to the diagram I should test pin 29 and see if it's grounded... In the process I found out my amplifier which was in the trunk is right next to a rust hole in the side of my car and I think it may have been damaged by water? Anyways if it's the amplifier pin 29 should be good so I went out and bought a 6-12 volt circuit tester and a digital multimeter from auto zone. I've read the safety manuel and what not but I you could tell me how to test the wire/wires I'de Apprieciat It alot!  

pin 29 on what page???

lx??  

the amp  is probably toasted with water damage...    remove power connector..  clean connector end with wd40 spray..  let dry.. then bag in a sturdy bag and tape closed to protect end from additional water damage.

you can perhaps   paint the edges of the rust with some por-15 .. then fill the opening with foam for insulating from the home center..   stuff in a spray can that comes out a long nozzle..  build up slow layers.  to fill in from the edges..    do a circle around the opening.. let it harden slightly.. then do one inside that..  then inside that ..  so its attached to the surface of the sheet metal.. not just the edges of the hole..

some of the foam stuff has been used to customize cars..  creating whole different shapes..   much lighter and quicker to use then bondo..

you must keep fumes and water out of the passenger compartment of your car..   if you use some self drilling screws and some expanded metal across the rusted area.. the foam would have more to stick to...

google expanded metal..   you have a lot of choices..  do it on homedepot dot  com    there is thin stuff for in stucco and sink counter work.. and thicker stuff for grills and security doors..   just the thin stuff is what i am think ing of..


more to come...  

what happens when the amp is disconnected...   does the fuse blow????

the stereo is NOT going to work with the amp unplugged as the amp is between the stereo head in the dash and the speakers...



water damaged amps are toast...

in 8W page 175 or LH130  shows the amp connectors..
the 6 pin connector has 2 wires in it..

cavity 3 has an 18 gauge black wire in it.. circuit number 21 ground... on page LH81
cavity 4 has an 12 gauge RED wire circuit F30 from the lighter feed..  on page LH81

on the 9 pin connector on the AMP..

cavity 1 has an 22 gauge Dark green and red striped wire circuit X60   on page LX80.

this wire in cavity 1 of the 9 pin connector is how the stereo turns the amp on...


do you see why you need the factory manual now..   jumping back and forth across dozens of pages...

why when the horn honks .. you blow the fuse????

unplug the amp...    blow the horn..  does it honk..???  without blowing the fuse???  

I unplugged the amp, all good fuses, honk horn, horn honks for a second then blows fuse #8,then the  horn no longer honks. Then I replaced fuse #8 with a good 20 amp fuse.  

at this point...  unplug the horns...

push the horn button.. with the relay plugged in..  does it blow the fuse...  if it does.. then its probably up in the column at the clock spring..  

I've actualy already done that, i've tried unplugging the 2 horn speakers then pushing the horn and nothing blows.  

then the HORNs themselves are shorted...    try ONE and see if it blows the fuse.. then the other.. see if it blows the fuse..

horns can short out..