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2000 toyota camry 2.2L EFI

 
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yankee.23 yankee.23
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/18/12
12:21 PM

fuel press good,no t-codes,car runs smooth, car idleing fine,no misses,no vacuum leaks,car will just shut off,restarts like normal right away, already changed efi relay,any suggestions  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/18/12
02:34 PM

do you have a timing light?????

do you have a test light

do you have a scan tool....

do you have a fuel pressure gauge???

do you have some kind of amp meter or digital volt meter???

do you have an engine control wiring diagram for your car.????  so you can see how the power is supplied to the various controls..


let me throw some ideas up on the wall.. see if they stick....


tape the trigger in the on position on your timing light .. hook it up to a spark plug wire if accessible.. lay the timing light on the windshield so you can see the flashing.. does it STOP flashing as soon as the engine dies .. but before the engine stops turning.. then look toward an electrical or ignition problem..


with a test light stuck into the power circuit to the coil...  not the ground circuit.. work the ignition switch from OFF to ON and then to crank.. then back to ON..  see if the light stays bright in ON and Cranking..   ignition switches have been known to fail...



with the scan tool...   looking at live data stream...  if your scan tool displays crank sensor rpms..
see if it drops to zero as the engine stalls but before it comes to a stop..  a slight variation on the timing light above.. the crank sensor be failing???




if you don't have a fuel pressure test gauge.. you can install this where the fuel pump fuse is..  and monitor the amp draw of the fuel pump... most cars have about 7 amps of power... when the pumps fail.. they draw more and more..

Image 14147

there are two different versions of this tool.. for the tiny fuses and the normal fuses..

i have had the most problem on these camrys with the idle air control valve..  that carbon builds up in it. at that point it hangs up and the engine will either idle too fast.. or stall out..





these are on the bottom of the throttle body...  and you cannot easily take them off without removing the throttle body.. try not to damage the screws as they are really really TIGHT.. and they need a pozi drive screw driver tip .. not a phillips screw driver.. i usually have to have a small pair of channel lock pliers to grip the sides of the head of the screw to loosen it for the first fraction of a turn.. or the + will just tear out..

be sure to note that there are at least 3 hoses to the bottom of the throttle body.. 2 of them are COOLANT.. one vacuum..  don't get them mixed up...

i remove the screws that hold the black electrical device on the end..  then spray brake cleaner through it as i am rotating the knob carefully until it turns free.. it only turns a fraction of a turn.. the carbon hangs it up..  the computer varies the voltage to the black part.. this exerts variable magnetic force to the knob.. to turn the shutter valve to control idle speed..   i usually plan on an hour to remove and clean the throttle body assembly..


you will also want to take your vacuum gauge.. hook it up in the vacuum hose to the EGR valve..  lay the vacuum gauge on the windshield .. take the car for a test drive.. verify the EGR valve is actually getting vacuum .. .

i have had to change these on many of the 2000 models that have come through..

 

yankee.23 yankee.23
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/18/12
04:27 PM

have fuel press hooked up,no drop in press when eng. stops.eng starts normal after every stall.this all happens at idle, does have same problem on road, have scanner hooked up, tps has no skip with koeo throttle response,volts& percentage,all other paramaters within specs tried tapping on ecm,no change,going to try couple other things tomorrow. only thing i notice is on scanner is that it shows a misfire all 4 cyl just before stopping. i am trying to help this shop out,they call me when they dont know what to do. either way i will solve prob. also they have no all-data or any other kind of schematics, i wish there was some free wireing schematics on-line i could get info from, thanks i will let you know what happens  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/18/12
05:21 PM

there are... az . com    join and log in at the upper right corner..   when logged in.,. you can select your car.. including a bunch before 83..  and then click the repair info tab at the top ..  it will take you to a repair section..  with all kinds of stuff...

i would bet with the misfire just before the stall. that the crank sensor or the cam sensor is failing..


0900C1528009289b


there is also alldatadiy dot com  alldatadiy is the a slightly limited version of the professional alldata for consumers with individual subscriptions..

and eautorepair dot net  the same for eautorepair  dot net.. except its mitchells on demand by individual subscription..  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/18/12
05:31 PM

you will also want to go thru this...

0900C15280092428


The Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor provides a signal through the ignition module which the ECM uses as a reference to calculate rpm and crankshaft position.

The crankshaft sensor should be tested either
   cold 14-122°F (-10-50°C) or
hot at 122-212°F (50-100°C).

Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between terminals.
Resistance cold should read 1630-2740 ohms
and hot; 2060-3225 ohms.
If resistance is not within specification, the sensor may be faulty.

0900C152800926ec
Remove the right side fender apron seal to gain access to the crankshaft position sensor


0900C15280092439  

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