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DODGE 545 RFE HELP! PLEASE!

 
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f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 11/27/11
06:39 PM

BEEN BATTLING MY DODGE TRANNY FOR COUPLE WEEKS NOW. ORIGINALLY I WOULD PUT IT IN GEAR AND IT WOULD TAKE 10 15 SECONDS TO ENGAGE WHEN COLD. WHEN WARM IT WOULD ALWAYS WORK JUST FINE. 3 WEEKS AGO IT TOOK 2 3 MINS TO ENGAGE THEN TRANNY WENT INTO LIMP MODE AND THREW A FEW CODES. HAD THE CODES CLEARED, FLUCHED THE TRANNY CHANGED THE PICK UP FILTER AS WELL. ALL WAS FINE FOR A WEEK. THEN SAME *** AGAIN. SAME CODES. BUT NOW AT ABOUT 1/4 THROTTLE IN EVERY GEAR IT WOULD SLIP. BUT WOULD NOT GO INTO LIMP MODE. JUST TOOK THE PAN OFF TONIGHT AND REPLACED THE CANISTER FILTER THAT I DIDNT REALIZE WAS IN THERE THE FIRST TIME AROUND, THINKING MAYBE IT WAS REALLY MUCKED UP. AND WANTED TO DOUBLE CHECK THE PICK UP FILTER HAD NOT MOVED OR SOMETHING ALL WAS WELL. BUTTONED IT UP FILLED IT UP AND NOW WONT GO INTO ANY GEAR AFTER ANY AMOUT OF TIME!!!!! Confused THE CODES ITS THROWING NOW ARE PO700 {TRANNY CONTROL MALFUNCTION} PO733, PO876 [PREASURE SWITCH MALFUNCTION.] PO888 [TCM POWER RELAY CKT] CLEARED CODES TRIED AGIAN GOT ONLY PO700 AND PO888.    ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT TO TRY NEXT WOULD BE GREAT  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 11/27/11
08:42 PM

did you change the filter as soon as it started taking time to engage???  

while waiting to engage..??? was the engine at fast idle???  or were you revving the engine trying to build pressure..

or when it failed to engage instantly .. did you drop it back in park and wait for it to warm up???

how much fiber was in the bottom of the pan when you examined the residue?????

there might not be any clutch material left...    was there any steel on the magnet in the pan..


were you able to access the live data and monitor the various speed sensors?? or what ever that model has...  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 11/28/11
08:58 AM

yep, flushed and changed pick up filter when started taking time to engage.

doesn't seem to matter anymore, when first started it would take bout 20 seconds to engage at idle if i gave it some rpm say 1000 1100 it would engage in bout 10 to 15 sec.

and i have tried every combination of warming it up p to d, D TO R, R TO 1 and so on, no diff.

not much fiber on te magnet, just enough to to lightly coat the magnet

was not able to access the live data  

440t4 440t4
Guru | Posts: 1009 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 11/28/11
02:44 PM

Check the tcm fuse and the tcm relay. And you probably need a new solinoid block. How many miles on it?  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 11/28/11
08:55 PM

checked fuse and relay and both r good, someone else suggested the solenoid block as well, anyway to test this before i rip into it again. cause the pack is deep within right. with a lil direction I know i can tackle this myself. just a few pointers would be appreciated.  

440t4 440t4
Guru | Posts: 1009 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 11/29/11
06:25 PM

If you have access to a scanner that reads detailed transmission data you can watch the operation of the solinoids. The solinoid block is the most likely problem .The question is how much damage to the clutch packs resulted from the low line pressure. You didnt mention the mileage also. You have to drop the valve body to replace the solinoid block.  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/01/11
08:37 PM

well got the solenoid pack from dealer. I have a generic scan tool but not able to read any  live output info. basically i can only read the codes. I got the valve body ready to remove but ran into a brick wall trying to remove. I cant figure out how to disconnect the trs electrical connector on the outside of the tranny case. its obviously a tight fit but i got a good look at all sides of the connector but cant seem to get the (latch looking) mechanism to release. there was a red safety that locks in place, I slide that down and i can tell that is diengaged but still cant get the latch to pivot out of the way to clear the pins on the solenoid pack connector in order to pull it through the tranny housing. gotta be a combination to it im not seeing. i didnt want to tourqe on it to hard cause of coarse the damb thing is plastic.  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/01/11
08:39 PM

oh ya by the way 61,000 miles. 2 flus and filter changes in the life of the tranny.  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/01/11
09:45 PM

doin a little reserch tonight and found that in the tranny service manual it says when changing pick up filter to set the filter gasket before putting filter in place!? there was no gasket/seal there when i tool it off! looked it up on some parts websites and napa shows one with a small gasket and has a part num. 1-8585  every other site i look at doesnt have one listed? this could have been the original issue. anyone know?  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 12/01/11
10:23 PM

item 31 shows a rubber and steel wedding ring on the top of the tube.. usually hangs up in the transmission when the filter is removed...

http://www.transmissioncenter.com/45RFE_545RFE_68RFE_Performance_Transmissions_and_Parts.htm

a link to a parts diagram..

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/mm5/graphics/Catalog-pdf/45RFE.pdf


you can see the seal on the filter neck..




i don't know how many of the front wheel drive 3 speed mopar transmissions i have had to rebuild do to the cork gasket being balanced on the filter.. instead of being pushed over the torx cap screws to keep it in alignment..

on gm transmissions.. with a similar seal.. i have found several wedged into the pump where the filter fits.  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/02/11
09:05 AM

well if thats the seal on the neck then i'm ok, that is whatcame out and whawent back in.  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 12/02/11
09:14 AM

the seal is separate....  it sometimes come out on the filter..

it sometimes comes out and falls into the drain pan..

it sometimes sticks...

it really sounds like there was a problem.. but the frictions may be all worn away..   when its metal to metal in the friction clutches.. it may engage.. but will slip when the engine starts making more torque ...

when the frictions are worn thinner..  and i have NOT been into one of these..  the pistons that squeeze the frictions and the steel plates will extend past the bore they are in.. and the seal will cut..  at that point.. you don't have any way to build pressure behind the piston ..  

f7inMN f7inMN
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 11/11
Posted: 12/03/11
09:52 PM

hey guys, got the truck put back together tonight! replaced solenoid pack. good news is, went right into every gear of my choice, seems to work like new again. bad news is I couldnt do a full on road test with kick downs and all, because we are getting the first real snow fall of the year today. so i will give it another going over in the morn when its cold again. so far, i gotta say i'm convinced. no previous symptons showing. curious to see what it does cold. been in my shop round 60 for a week or better now. tomarow's morning temp will b round 20

Thanks a bunch guys for the input! (waynep7122, and 440T4)  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 12/03/11
11:07 PM

try to remember.. that this transmission learn how to shift again after the transmission codes have been erased or the battery disconnected...

so a first drive is critical to do at an easy pace. as it goes through the gears ..

remember.. this transmission computer keeps track of how long it takes to fill each pressure section .. it then knows how long to hold the solenoids on for gear changes..  its called CVI..  clutch volume indicator.. or something like that..  

440t4 440t4
Guru | Posts: 1009 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 12/04/11
09:42 AM

Just try to keep your throttle positions steady for the first 5 minutes or so. Do a 1/4  take off and try to hold it there until it shifts all the way to 5th gear. Then do it at half throttle and then do it at 3/4 throttle. But mainly just don't do radical throttle position changes during the initial road test.  

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