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Best speed for best fuel economy

 
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bbuss2 bbuss2
User | Posts: 72 | Joined: 06/11
Posted: 01/01/12
07:43 AM

98 Toyota Corolla 1.8L 3 speed autmatic.
I have been driving an 01 Blazer which was fine when I didn't drive far but now I got
a good good job after 3 years finaly. The only problem is it is 32 miles one way.
Killing me in gas at 15 mpg.
Got a chance to buy a 98 toyoya with a bad trans cheap.
I can rebuild the trans myself.
Just wondering at what speed or rpm should I get my best economy?

Thanks Bob  

 
waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 01/01/12
10:47 AM

i found this..

In modern times, the Toyota Corolla has used two different engine families (shared with the Celica).

Corollas made from 1993 to 1997 had two engine choices, the 1.6 liter 4A-FE and the 1.8 liter 7A-FE.  The 1.8 was used in the GT-S. As emissions laws and tuning changed, horsepower figures moved around slightly, but not enough that the average person would notice: in 1993, horsepower was 110 hp at 5,600 rpm. By 1996, less peak power was available, but you could get it more quickly: 105 hp at 5,200 rpm. Torque went up by two foot-pounds in the same time, from 115 to 117.

1998 models benefitted greatly from a new engine family. Most automakers in the late 1990s were able to create new engine families with more power, better economy, and lower emissions, partly because of new technologies (distributorless ignition, returnless sequential fuel injection, etc.) but also because of computer-aided design and modelling. Some, notably GM and Chrysler, took the same engine blocks and squeezed large new chunks of power out of them, without losing efficiency.

In Toyota's case, the 1ZZ-FE engine combined substantially more power and economy with cleaner burning of fuel. It debuted with 120 hp (at 5,200 rpm) and 122 lb-ft of torque (at 4,400 rpm), which means that it not only makes more power than its predecessor, but does not need to be revved as high to do it. The result is a very fast car that feels peppy at all engine speeds. (Currently, the engine is producing 130 hp and 125 lb-ft of torque, for reasons we will go over later on).

The ZZ is an aluminum block engine which uses iron cylinder liners - a common design now. The deck is open, which saves weight and allows for greater precision in construction, also results in less cylinder strength, really only a problem for those who want to turbocharge or supercharge their engines with a high degree of boost. On the other hand, the bottom end has been strengthened with a full-size main bearing girdle.

Like the ol' Chrysler slant six, the 1ZZ-FE has a fairly long stroke, which is one reason it makes good torque. The bore is 79 mm, the stroke is 91.5 mm. There are two cams and 16 valves (four per cylinder).

The heads are designed to provide knock resistance while keeping combustion efficient. Their tapered squish area design, which forces a mixture of fuel and air at the spark plug, allows for a high compression ratio of 10:1 - on regular gas.

The valve seats, rather than being pressed into the head, are sprayed on, allowing them to be much thinner than standard valve seats - the result is efficient transfer of heat through the valve seats instead of the valve stems. This allows the valve stems to be relatively thin and light, so that the valve springs can be lighter, reducing wasted power and allowing for thinner cam lobes. This also means that the twin cams can be driven by a quiet, compact single-roller timing chain.

The fuel injection is returnless (a technique pioneered by Chrysler), with a pressure regulator in the gas tank, to reduce fire risk and make combustion more efficient.

The exhaust manifold is short, with the catalytic converter very close to the engine. To allow this, the aluminum intake manifold was moved to the front of the engine. Long intake runners were used to increase low-rev power. Toyota uses extruded aluminum, which is smoother than cast aluminum, and made the runners fairly wide.

2000 saw the introduction of the next generation ZZ engine, which includes variable valve technology ("VVT-i" for Toyota, "VTEC" for Honda, and there are others) to raise power by 5 hp while increasing fuel efficiency by about two or three miles per gallon.

2003 saw yet another major advancement, this one in gas mileage. Though the 2003 Corolla added both weight and a little horsepower - another 5 hp, making it 130 in total with 125 lb-ft of torque - gas mileage actually increased, thanks to direct injection. This system, long used by Mitsubishi in smaller engines, is even more efficient than the now-common sequential multiple-port electronic fuel injection, eliminating one more step in the process where fuel can fall out of suspension - essentially squirting it directly into the cylinder. Toyota is the first company to put direct injection into a standard-price "large" four-cylinder engine.

 

 
waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 01/01/12
11:09 AM

i have only run into a few problems with these toyotas..   the injectors clog..  takes about an hour to remove the cover.. pull the injectors..  rig some hose sections to clamp onto the injector and reduced to the spray nozzle stick size.. yep. pushing one hose inside the other.. unless you have a chunk of fuel rail you can modify from another car.. using a 9 volt battery with a fuel injector connector to operate it while spraying the carb or brake cleaner through..   you will see the difference...

i did notice that some of the 1ZZ-FE engine parts are used up through the 2007 model.. although. the automatic transaxle is only a 98/99 unit.. according to the parts lists..


i personally would want to know why the blazer is getting that little fuel mileage... do you have your own scan tool.. you could plug in..  or one of the dash board top displays that plug into the OBD2 port for test drives..??? where you might be able to monitor the fuel trims.. see if they are staying within 5 or 8 percent (+ or -) when driving..  

monitoring the fuel injector pulse width will also let you know where the sweet spot is in either ride..

on the blazer.. do you have a spare set of rims.. where you might pick up some taller skinny tires... to reduce engine speed...  it can make a difference...   how is the wheel alignment..   in a flat parking lot.. how hard is it to push by your self??  or a slightly sloping street... if you stop and put it in neutral and release the brakes.. will it roll on its own?????

98 gm pickups have had terrible problems with the antilock brake system dragging...

unplug the ABS fuse for a tank full..  see if your fuel mileage increases..   this makes a HUGE difference...

if you have a decent scan tool with ABS .. have somebody drive it while you look at the speed sensor signals.. they should match.. exactly..  no spikes.. drive it from stopped to highway speeds and back to stopped several times.. like on a highway.. taking every off ramp and reentering the freeway..   don't do this alone..  you cannot look away unless you can do a 5 minute or so recording..

please on the chevy truck.. also do the voltage drop test...


take a digital volt meter...

set it to 20 volts DC scale...

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected.

if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...


this test takes about 2 minutes...

post your results by test number..

if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...

you have a bad ground between those parts..

why do this test....   bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks... and i have had other 98 chevy trucks with serious problems in the ground connections..

why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...  if you loose a ground.. or it becomes intermittent..  you won't have any power for that circuit, this will cause the sensor and other devices to not work properly..

other problems . on the 98.. high voltage leaking from the ignition coil core.. reducing high voltage to fire the spark plugs.. bad distributer caps.. they are a crossfire design.. where the high voltage conductors pass each other inside the plastic of the cap...  causing misfires..    leaking fuel pressure regulators on the vortec spider main body..   clogged fuel filters causing excessive wear on the fuel pump.. reducing fuel pressure to minimum where it will require more injector pulse width to reach the power.. this will show up in the short and long term fuel trims..  

when ever someone complains with an OBD2 car.. take a test ride with them driving and look at the short and long term fuel trims. as they drive..  the closer they stay to 0%  the better the fuel economy..

i hope that i have NOT buried you in techobabble..  

 
2012 Toyota Corolla
Body Style:
Sedan
Rating:
Above Average

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