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I have a 1998 Chrysler Cirrus. It died on me in a parking lot recently, and I towed it to a shop and was informed it needed a new starter. I picked up the car yesterday and it started and drove fine for about 4 hours. Only a few minutes after driving it that night, I went to go crank it back up so I could roll up the windows, and now the engine won't turn over and  my headlights flash as if almost in hazard mode. The lights continue to blink for a few minutes, then stop. any ideas out there as to why my lights are flashing and my engine won't turn?  

the built in security system is active...

get out.. lock the doors with the key or use the keyfob to lock them..

wait a minute.. then unlock the doors in a normal fashion.. then the motor should start...

your key fob could also be failing and activating the panic button on it.. ...


cycle the ignition key from the OFF position  to the on position 3 times without starting the engine in under 10 seconds with the last position in the ON position..



off. ON.. off .. ON... off.. ON.. off .. ON...  read codes displayed on the odometer...
your odometer should start displaying code numbers..

write them down..   post them..  they could be a P0000 number of a C0000 number.. or a B0000 number..  

Ok I'll try that now and let you know. Thanks  

Wow, it worked perfectly. I locked it, waited 2 minutes, unlocked it, and presto.

You just saved me some money...a local mechanic told me on the phone it was a sure sign of low battery voltage...and my brother told me it was probably corrosion. This truly shows how amazing the Internet is.  

Wow, it worked perfectly. I locked it, waited 2 minutes, unlocked it, and presto.

You just saved me some money...a local mechanic told me on the phone it was a sure sign of low battery voltage...and my brother told me it was probably corrosion. This truly shows how amazing the Internet is.  

glad to have helped.. post if you get this...  as i would like you to run a test if you can...

THIS IS ONLY TO VERIFY THAT YOU DON'T have another problem with at least the battery cables..   please check for codes also... with the flipping of the ignition switch..

i want to know if the starter was a problem or the wiring..

lets start with the simple and cheep stuff...

do you have a digital volt meter... if you don't.. they can be had for 7 bucks to 25 bucks..

a lot of parts stores have these from innova for about 16 bucks..



harbor freight stores have these for about 20 bucks



either will last you for decades..


next.... i would take a digital volt meter...

set it to 20 volts DC scale...

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected.

if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...

this test takes about 2 minutes...

post your results by test number..

if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...

you have a bad ground between those parts..



why do this test....   bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks...

why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...  if you loose a ground.. or it becomes intermittent..  you won't have any power for that circuit...  just like a table light when the plug falls part way out of the wall...  the light will go out..

also i have fixed a LOT of cars lately with that  2 minute test... some hot water and a stainless steel wire toothbrush ...

finding the ground connections.. removing them from where they are bolted down after counting how many wires are on each one..   wire brushing both sides of the ring terminals...   wire brushing the back side of the nut.. wire brushing the mounting pad...  washing with HOT water..  

putting them back on.. and counting to verify the number of wires is the same...

the verifying with the same test again...