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I stopped hard at a red light the other day and my idle became erratic and the check engine light came on. The car ran rough and had no power as I pulled it over. I pulled the codes P0340, P1336, and P 2197. I changed the CMP sensor and checked the wiring harness hoping for a quick fix, but to no avail. I hope someone here as some troubleshooting ideas, before I'm forced to take it to a repair shop. Thanks in advance.  

i know they only made those for a few years...  can you post an exact year and engine...

i would really like you to examine the vacuum hoses around the engine for vacuum leaks with the engine running..

use your ears with the engine idling and the hood open ..   crushed elbows from the internal vacuum are a major problem on various models..   really screw with the oxygen sensor readings..  

does your scan tool graph the live data???? does it display your oxygen sensor waveforms..  what do they look at at a steady 2500 rpm???



i went looking around

First, the relationship between successive PIP events is evaluated to determine whether the PIP signal is rational.
Too large a change in 3 successive PIP indicates a missing or noisy PIP signal (P0320).
Next, the CMP edge count is compared to the PIP edge count. If the proper ratio of CMP events to PIP events is
not being maintained (for example, 1 CMP edge for every 8 PIP edges for an 8-cylinder engine), it indicates a
missing or noisy CMP signal (P0340).
Finally, the relationship between IDM edges and PIP edges is evaluated. If there is not an IDM edge (coil firing) for
every PIP edge (commanded spark event), the PCM will look for a pattern of failed IDM events to determine which
ignition coil has failed. If the ignition coil cannot be identified or if the engine is running and there are no IDM edges,
the IDM circuit is malfunctioning (P1351).
Power PC Ignition
New "Power PC" processors no longer use an EDIS chip for ignition signal processing. The signals are now
directly processed by the PCM using a special interface chip called a Time Processing Unit or TPU. The 36-tooth
crankshaft and camshaft position signals come directly into the TPU. The signals to fire the ignition coil drivers also
come from the TPU.
The PowerPC ignition system is checked by monitoring three ignition signals during normal vehicle operation:
CKP, the signal from the crankshaft 36-1-tooth wheel. The missing tooth is used to locate the cylinder pair
associated with cylinder # 1 The TPU also generates the Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal, a 50% duty
cycle, square wave signal that has a rising edge at 10 deg BTDC.
Camshaft IDentification (CMP, commonly known at CID), a signal derived from the camshaft to identify the
#1 cylinder
NOMI, a signal that indicates that the primary side of the coil has achieved the nominal current required for
proper firing of the spark plug. This signal is received as a digital signal from the coil drivers to the TPU.
The coil drivers determine if the current flow to the ignition coil reaches the required current (typically 5.5
Amps for COP, 3.0 to 4.0 Amps for DIS) within a specified time period (typically > 200 microseconds for
both COP and DIS).
First, several relationships are checked on the 36-1 tooth CKP signal. The TPU looks for the proper number of
teeth (35 or 39) after the missing tooth is recognized; time between teeth too low (< 30 rpm or > 9,000 rpm); or the
missing tooth was not where it was expected to be. If an error occurs, the TPU shuts off fuel and the ignition coils
and attempts to resynchronize itself. It takes on revolution to verify the missing tooth, and another revolution to
verify cylinder #1 using the CMP input. Note that if a P0320 DTC is set on a vehicle with Electronic Throttle Control,
(ETC), the ETC software will also set a P2106.
If the proper ratio of CMP events to PIP events is not being maintained (for example, 1 CMP edge for every 8 PIP
edges for an 8-cylinder engine), it indicates a missing or noisy CMP signal (P0340). On applications with Variable
Cam Timing (VCT), the CMP wheel has five teeth to provide the VCT system with more accurate camshaft control.
The TPU checks the CMP signal for an intermittent signal by looking for CMP edges where they would not be
expected to be. If an intermittent is detected, the VCT system is disabled and a P0344 (CMP Intermittent Bank 1)
or P0349 (CMP intermittent Bank 2) is set.
Finally, the relationship between NOMI events and PIP events is evaluated. If there is not an NOMI signal for every
PIP edge (commanded spark event), the PCM will look for a pattern of failed NOMI events to determine which
ignition coil has failed.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
P1336
CKP Variation Learn:
Eliminate False Misfire DTC's

Drivability technicians have experienced learn and relearn procedures for years. The Crankshaft Position Variation Learn Procedure — concerning the relationship of the Crankshaft Position sensor or CKP to the crankshaft reluctor — was introduced in 1997 and has been used more broadly since 1998.
DTC P1336 indicates that CKP System Variation is not learned. This learn procedure is needed to compensate for minor variations in manufacturing tolerances that might alter the relationship of the crankshaft position sensor to the reluctor wheel, possibly resulting in a false misfire DTC and MIL illumination.

CKP positions must be relearned when any of these parts are removed or replaced:
CKP sensor
Front cover or bracket holding the crankshaft position sensor
Target wheel (reluctor)
Crankshaft
Engine block
Engine assembly
PCM
The crankshaft position system variation learning feature is used to calculate reference period errors caused by slight tolerance variations in the crankshaft, the crankshaft balancer interrupter rings, and the crankshaft position sensor Hall Effect switches. The calculated error allows the PCM to accurately compensate for reference period variations. The crankshaft position system variation learning feature enhances the ability of the PCM to detect misfire events over a wider range of engine speed and load.

The crankshaft position system variation values are stored in the PCM non-volatile memory after the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure has been performed. DTC P1336 set indicates that the crankshaft position system variation values have not been stored in the PCM and the crankshaft position system variation learn procedure must be performed. The learn procedure is required after the following service procedures have been performed, regardless of whether or not DTC P1336 is set:
PCM replacement
Engine replacement
Crankshaft replacement
Crankshaft balancer replacement
Crankshaft position sensor replacement
Any engine repair(s) which disturbs the crankshaft/harmonic balancer to crankshaft position sensor relationship
Conditions for Running the DTC

No CMP or CKP sensor DTC(s) set.
Coolant temp greater than 70º C.
Conditions for Setting the DTC

Crankshaft position system variation values are not stored in the PCM memory.
Action Taken When the DTC Sets

The PCM will illuminate the MIL during the first trip in which the diagnostic test has been run and failed.
The PCM will store conditions which are present when the DTC sets as Freeze Frame and Fail Records data.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC

The PCM will turn the MIL “OFF” during the third consecutive trip in which the diagnostic has been run and passed.
The history DTC will clear after 40 consecutive warm-up cycles have occurred without a malfunction.
The DTC can be cleared by using the Scan Tool Clear Info function or by disconnecting the PCM battery feed on some models.
If a PCM is swapped from one vehicle into another, the CKP position variation must be relearned also (unless the PCM will be returned to the original vehicle). If a PCM is swapped without a CKP learn, the P1336 will not set and it is possible that a misfire DTC in the P0300 group might later set falsely. This is due to an incorrect CKP position value being stored in the PCM and being used in misfire calculation.

CKP variation is only relearned with a scan tool. It does not relearn “by itself.”
Make sure no DTCs are set. If DTCs
are set, service them before performing the procedure.
The service brake must be firmly applied and the transmission in Park for an automatic or Neutral for a manual.
A/C must be “OFF” and the hood closed.
At this point, use the scan tool and select CASE Learn:
Open the accelerator to the CASE fuel cutoff speed and release it as soon as the PCM cuts off the fuel and the engine begins to decelerate.
The scan tool will identify when the procedure is complete.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
P2197
Lack of HO2S-21 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean
Detailed Description
A heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Possible causes :-
Electrical:
# Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S.
# Water in the harness connector.
# Open/shorted HO2S circuit.
# Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring.
# Damaged HO2S.
# Damaged powertrain control module (PCM).
Fuel System:
# Excessive fuel pressure.
# Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors.
# Leaking fuel pressure regulator.
# Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.
# Vapor recovery system.
Induction System:
# Air leaks after the mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
# Vacuum Leaks.
# PCV system.
# Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.
EGR System:
# Leaking gasket.
# Stuck EGR valve.
# Leaking diaphragm or EVR.
Base Engine:
# Oil overfill.
# Cam Timing.
# Cylinder compression.
# Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s).  

Thank you for the detailed response, I appreciate it.  It is a 2005 Ford 500 SEL with a Duratec 3.0 L DOHC V6 engine (183 ci). It currently has 110k on it. My scanner unfortunately does not graph, it is just a simple reader.  I will look a hard look at the vacuum hoses/parts and see what I can turn up. I reset the codes to see what would come back, and the same codes returned.  The engine will not go past 3200 RPM's when in park and it's tough to get it there. To rule out any catastrophic issues, I'm going to drain the oil and inspect the filter and oil for any metal.

The engine really sounds terrible, and it seems to be emanating from the intake manifold area. Not like a rod knock, but maybe spark knock?? Not sure...

I will keep you updated.  Thanks again for the response.  

I would like to know the outcome to this if there is one.

My 05 Five Hundred SEL with the same 3.0 died on the highway and needed to be towed home.

Car will start with wide open throttle and max out at 2000rpm.
Will not hold an idle.
NO CODES in computer!

100K miles

it died not 10 minutes after kid put $10 of cheap gas in it but it has been hard starting for 2-3 weeks now. Would crank, start and die. Would have to repeat this 2-3 times before car would stay running.

RR = Fuel Filter
RR = Both strainers inside fuel tank (pain in the butt)
RR = New, Clean, Good gas
Cleaned = Mass air flow sensor
Cleaned = Throttle Body (actually removed it and really cleaned it)
Checked = Intake and vacuum for leaks - none found
Checked = Exhaust - pushing out good pressure
Checked = Electrical connections and grounds - all appear good

With my Scan Gauge I watch the TPS with engine NOT running and i see 10 - 75 and throttle response is almost instant.
With engine running it max's out at 20 throttle response is very slow.

What is killing me is when the car died no check engine light and no codes.

When car is running at it's max RPM of 2000 it "Knock's" like timing is out of whack!

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

B  

do you have a fuel injection fuel pressure tester...  i am hoping that there is a test port... there should be..

i have run into fuel that DOES not burn...  i have run into fuel that was spiked with sugar or syrup..  when the engine came up to temp.. the injectors and the fuel system CLOGGED tight with the hardened sugar..

i am not familiar with whats under the hood of a 500.. i would think its just  like a taurus..  

the fuel system is a returnless system .. the fuel pump is controlled by the ECM via a fuel pump power module..  the voltage or pulses vary to the fuel pump to effect

you are going to want to download this booklet.. its 132 pages... from ford/motorcraft..

you will want to print printed page 5 and 6 so you can compare what you see on the scan tool to what you are getting..


http://www.motorcraftservice.com/vdirs/diagnostics/pdf/OBDSM508.pdf

write your data on the page.. post what's out of spec here..  

the BIG question...   DOES THE CAR run Normally after you get it started ?????????????????????????


i really worry that the fuel lines and fuel rail are clogged with what ever bad fuel you got..

i am also worried that the injectors might be clogged...

one last worry.. that the poor running when it failed.. might have damaged the cats... either damaging them or clogging them..  

Well...

Fuel is good - took a sample from the fuel rail and looks clean and smells ok.

Can't find a test port for the pressure but I have a hard time holding back the pressure with my finger (good guess would be at least 50psi if not more).

I only mentioned the gas fill up to get all the info out there.

I would think that if fuel pressure was low I could at least get the car to idle.

This car will only run between 1000 and 2000 rpm's - nothing more and stalls below 1000rpm.

Hot or cold 1000rpm min and 2000rpm max - nothing i do changes this.

One thing I failed to mention... on my scan gauge i can see the timing going from 10 to 50 - that seems like a wide range to me and thats why tomorrow I am going after the Crank Position Sensor. Also is hearing that "Knock" like it is way out of time (and yes I know the diff between a knock and a rod rap).

waynep7122 thanks for that manual - very interesting reading.

Thanks again.

B  

its in engine protection mode...

i don't have diagnostics for that model at hand..

eautorepair.net

alldatadiy.com

both have full diagnostics...

hundreds of pages if not thousands of pages of them..

i would first go back and start with the voltage drop test i posted above.. loose a ground.. stuff goes CRAZY..

be sure to check the TSB titles over at alldatadiy.com   see if you see anything close...

i have friends over so i have not had a lot of time to post over the last few days.. or do a lot of research spend time at..

i just typed this out for another post..

did you call the gas station and complain that since you filled up your car won't run... and see what they say..

once in a while.. a tanker full of fuel .. will be totally wrong.. will cause nightmares for drivers all over the area..

one car that was towed into the shop i used to work at .. was perfect.. except it would NOT run..  when we took a fuel sample.. poured out a Teaspoon of gas into a stainless parts tray in the middle of the parking lot.. and lit it with a propane torch..  it would just barely burn..    we did the same with a fresh sample from a different car..  big flames...

drained the gas.. blew the lines out..  put in 5 gallons of fresh gas...  ran great...

another shop.. a fellow dropped his car off.. after buying gas.. his car started smoking..  by the time i was called.. they had done 2 valve jobs and changed the fuel injectors..  along with a bunch of other fuel injection devices..

i disconnected the fuel lines at the fuel rail.. hooked up the injector cleaning machine.. poured fresh gas in the machine.. when i ran it on a clean fuel supply.. it was perfect after a few minutes of making zero visibility smoke... smoke so dense.. traffic behind the car would come to a stop... and creep through.. brought a six lane main street in la to a STOP..

i told them to drop the tank.. drain it.. put it back..  put fresh gas in.. and try it..

the next day.   they were on the phone again..  same problem..

when i got there .. i ask the tech what he did.. he replied that he had done exactly as i had told him..   i ask where the old fuel is...  his answer.. we got rid of it..  i ask where.. did you pour it in another car.. down the drain??? where is it..  i stood on his toes and bent him kinda backward over the fender.. he admitted . the fuel looked clean so they put it back in the car..   DOH!!!!,  at that point the car owner walked up.. i realized its the shop owners cousin..  i ask him about what he was doing just before the car started smoking..   he replied that he had bought 5 bucks of gas..  .. about 2 and a half gallons at that time.. how much was in the tank.. he said.. less than 1/8...

what else did you put in..     nothing was his first answer..  i moved in for the step on toes .. NOTHING??? well a fuel injector cleaner..   i started leaning in.. bending him backward.. he admitted to 5 bottles..  into about 5 gallons of gas..  
 

i wonder if the fuel pressure test connector is actually on the fuel line under the car..

you can see some kind of fitting on the Y section in this image..



probably best not to mess with it unless you access the service info..

try to scan the data stream..  post the results here..

that is a duel overheat cam motor.. with cam phasers.. to allow for variable cam timing..

 

the crank sensor is the 6c315

the cam sensor is the 6B288

 

Did anyone ever find out the cause of this? I'm having the same problem.  

he never posted a reply..

do you have a 2005 version..

there is a link up there that you should download..   its only 40 or 50 pages to read.. but important..

describes the operation of the OBD2 system...

gives you an advantage of how the system works..

can you post your codes..   and your exact symptoms..  

I've got a 2006 Freestyle SE w/ CVT. Codes are p0340 & p2197. also had p0106, p1336 and another but as I worked on it, I would clear and rescan. The last 2 were p0340 and p2197. It started acting up coming off a 2 hour drive. As I exited the interstae, I drove about half a mile and it started bucking and running horrible. It sounds like a huge vacuum leak or like it's way out of time. Sounds like a diesel engine. I haven't had really any problems previous to this other than the lurching. I fixed it about 4 months ago by cleaning the throttle body. Here's a list of the things I've changed/checked:
replaced the cam position sensor
replaced the radiator side pre-cat o2 sensor
replaced the maf sensor
replaced all plugs
re-cleaned throttle body
pulled intake and inspected for holes, leaks. replaced intake gaskets
opened exhaust to check for plugged cat
spray checked for intake leaks

Still sounds and acts the same. When I try to rev it up it doesn't repond at all sometimes and sometime it seems to lag. especially when I let off. the RPMs will hang for a few seconds before slowly falling back down.
any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks  

forgot to add: changed egr valve  

seems you replaced everything but the crank position sensor..

throw one of those in...    they do fail once in a while....


the cam sensor rely on the crank sensor for stable signals ... minus ONE...  or minus two...  what..

the reluctor on the crank usually has notches almost all the way around..  but in one position. it will skip a notch and be solid.. this tells the computer where the crank position is...

UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUTTUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUTTUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUTTUUUUUU

can you see the pattern..

the cam position sensor sends this signal..

TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTUUUUUUU

the cam sensor is on for half a turn of the cam.. but ONE turn of the crank...   its off for the other half of the cam rotation and off for the second rotation of the crank...and then it starts the ON again..     so if the crank sensor is sending out a random count..  it may not match what the computer is expecting to see..   and if you are just that unlucky.. it may throw a cam sensor code because the crank sensor is sending the wrong signal.  


they don't pay me the big money for nothing..    wait.. these guys don't pay me at all..   i do it to help .. i share my knowledge as a lot of people are greedy and won't share thinking that its going to cost them some future job..   perhaps i watched  miracle on 34st too many times..

if you have a scan tool.. as some can display the crank sensor signal as a Graph.. so you can see what it looks like..
thats what professional mechanics ***   some take a quick look and throw parts at it..  a sure way to fix some problems.
but embarrassing when the car still does not run..