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The mass air flow sensor is located between the air filter and the throttle body. It is a black plastic cylinder approximately 4 3/4" inches long and 3" inches in diameter. If you're still not sure, go on an auto parts website and bring up a picture of it. The wiring connection on top of it has a green part with an arrow on it pointing down. Press that part in toward the center of the clip and down. the clip should pop off. Be forewarned, this is not always so easy to do. Dirt and dust can make it tough to remove. I've bruised a few fingers myself in the process. Good luck.  

well i have removed it an brusied a few fingers too. where can i buy thr CRC from? do they sell it in the auto parts store?  

I have a 2001 Nissan Sentra and the person who owned it b4 me removed half of the air filter box and the previous air filter (K&N) needed to be replaced...done.  I am in the process of acquiring the missing half of the air filter box but in the mean time, the car idles really rough and if I give it too much gas, it almost stalls and dies.  You can hear it trying to "breathe".  The hose that connects to the MAF sensor broke off and I was able to reattach it until I can get it replaced but I get the feeling the MAF sensor may be bad and tomorrow is my only shot to replace it if possible.  Can this be done myself and do I need to get the ECU professionally done or just disconnect the battery and reconnect it later to let it "pick up" the sensor settings?  Thanks in advance for the help.  

I have a 95 Max which does exactly the same thing.  I replaced the coolant temp sensor and it did nothing.  The dealer wants to replace the knock sensor.  I know it's not that.  If you find out what the problem is, please repost.

thanks

Jimbolia  

OK I'm updating my last post.  The cleaned MAF has a return of the symptoms now.  Dying whil coasting from 60-0mph (neutral) yeah, it's a manual.  Now I have started downshifting again.  I have ordered a MAF and a new EGR valve.  I'm trying the MAF first and then if that doesn't work, the EGR.  If that doesnt work, I get to try the fuel pump.  After that, who knows?  Maybe I'll just turn up the idle speed, ignore it and continue to downshift.  Or Shift_$tealership.

Nissan, Enjoy the ride to the $tealership.
Nissan, Shift_Stall

Oh yeah, the new 350Z tires are $1000 to replace (all four.  I don't recommend it, it's built on an SUV chasis anyway, too heavy!

I will update after my next install.  

Just decided to try turning up the idle speed from 680-735rpm, which had a boggy feeling when starting from a stop, but was the "factory recommended spec" with timing from 6-8 degrees BTDC. To 750-780rpm idle with timing set at 15 degrees BTDC.  And now it doesn't feel boggy anymore, or chug when I turn the wheel, nor does it die while coasting to a stop.  
 I still have a MAF and EGR valve on the way, because I know they will go eventually anyway (sooner, as it has 107,000 miles on it).  Never hurts to be prepared...
 Oh yeah, she's not exactly stock either... so maybe the facory idle was not the right way to go.  I adjusted it by ear, until it sounded like a good idle...  And yes, I'm using premium with that timing setting
 We'll see how she drives over the next couple days. I hate intermittent problems that don't set some kind of code.  Problem solved for now.  

I have a Nissan Maxima-- '92 -- which stumbled and hesitated. I tried a MAF sensor from another Maxima with no stumble, to see if that was it and it wasn't. I cleaned all the connections to the sensors and cleaned the Maf with a spray cleaner and esp. cleaned the plug into the coil. Stumble's gone.  

Finally!  

I got the MAF and EGR valve in the mail yesterday.  I thought they sent me the wrong MAF because it had 3 prongs instead of 4 like the stock one.  The fourth prong apparently has no wire to the ECU and is not used.  There are only 3 wires into the MAF. (More on that later)...
Being the most popular part to go on NISSANs or so I find in my research, and from an "old tyme" Datsun mechanic (whose word is golden to me) I decided to change the MAF first, then as a backup plan, the EGR, and finally the fuel pump and ECU as last resort.  
The MAF switch immediately SOLVED THE PROBLEM!!!
I disconnected the battery to reset the ECU (negative terminal only).  Be forewarned, your alarm may trigger when re-applying the terminal, so be ready with the key-fob thingy for your alarm.  
This tells the computer to "reset" or reboot, and re-learn the A/F ratios, timing, injector pulse width, re-check emissions etc...
The car is now running fine and doesn't "search for Idle and die while coasting from 60mph to a stop in neutral"  I have a manual trans, and I do this to save the clutch (no downshifting or popping out of gear too late and stalling or jerking forward into the guy in front of you!) Plus it keeps the trans temp down and drops RPM, thereby saving on gas (cylinders firing less often = less injector pulses)
Anyway, the "more on that later" was, I almost broke the new MAF, a $400 part, when trying to switch connectors because of the different appearance of terminals. The connecors are soldered in, but are removable with 4 screws, or so they appear.  Lets just say, a new soldering Iron, and some serious effort and restraint were involved, in re-assembly.  
I was also missing the "Laminar Flow Screen" which is a mesh screen in the intake, to straighten airflow before it hits the MAF.  This screen does not impede flow.  I have the same, or more HP as before.  This may have added to my problem at IDLE, due to air turbulence at speed with the butterfly shut.  I couldn't tell you without a computational fluid dynamics model of my custom intake, and JPL is out of my $ range!
  That is the most comprehensive and successful fix for this problem. I would tend to apply it to any Nissan with these symptoms.

 Hope you like the fix, although a MAF is expensive! shift_$tealership  

There is a new forum for issues relating to recalls/bulletins or other problems on any Nissan. It has contact information as well as other victims stories.  Stop by and check it out and post up if you have had a problem!!!!!!

Thanks


http://www.thenissanfight.com  

Problem:  Nissan Maxima Stalling....

Ans:  Please have the Mass Airflow Sensor clean first.

Instruction:  Go to the Auto Parts, pick up the CRC Mass Airflow Sensor cleaner.   CAUTION:  Do not touch any part of the Sensor.  Thorough clean the Sensor.  Secondly, please replace your Air Filter, too.

Problem:  Hard Start Cold

Ans:  People tends to buy Fuel Injector Cleaner.  That is the last thing you want to do.   Do not any any Fuel Injector Cleaner to the Tank, because it dilute the fuel, which cause the Car very hard to start in the Engine is COLD.  

Good Luck
Thomas Hoang  

Sorry about the delayed response.  I did have to replace the MAF.  That resolved the issue.

-ICE  

I have the same problem of stalling. Took it to local mechanic, saying Mass airflow censor need to be changed and only dealer can do it. Took it to dealer, he said problem could be anything and charging $488.00 just to look into it. and if any problem then cost could be $1500 more...
If I can find that censor where shall I fix it? dealer is not going to do that?
any idea?  

I have a 95 Maxima which does almost the same. After starting the car it dies out if I don't rev the engine but if I can keen it running for 15/20 minutes this problem goes away.  

I had the same problem. cleaned the egr tube to the intake and replaced the egr first. then cleaned the IACV. had a code for the front heated 02 sensor replaced that and ran a lot better, actually perfect for a day. then stalling at stops and poor acceleration. not nearly as bad as before but not acceptable. leaning towards fuel pump, as it stumbles with the brake on (under load) in drive or reverse with a little gas to it. help me?  

Anybody there? When i looked at the MAF it looked clean. does this mean that it is fine or can there be buildup not visible to the eye? Isn't a fuel pump usually good or bad and not intermitent? HELP