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I am hoping to get some educated opinions before I end up pulling this transmission and rebuilding it. The last thing I want to do is rebuild and reinstall and it doesn't fix the problem. So I will go ahead and give you guys the symptoms, hopefully someone will know what's wrong with it.

A little history first, I just bought this car (98 Contour)for my stepson because it seemed to be in great shape and had a/c and was cheap.

I don't know if the problem was gradual or not due to not being the one to drive the car until I installed a stereo for his birthday in the car and went to drive it and noticed the transmission was really acting up. My son claims that there were no issues prior to except occasionally it would "shift hard"

What its doing now is when you start driving it is fine, but quickly (after about 5 minutes of driving) the transmission starts to slip when it's shifting. it gets gradually worse until it will not even engage first gear at a stop and the engine will just rev. If you sit for a few minutes it will re-engage into gear and you can limp the car home. if it has to shift, it usually starts the same symptoms.

The most crucial clue of this is the fact that there is a high pitch whine coming from the transmission, it's tone changes with the shifts.

I have replaced the speed censor (only code) and the transmission fluid. When I drained the fluid all seems to be fine, it did not have a burnt smell and no shavings came out. It was a little dark reddish/brown. These did not help.

Let me know your thoughts and if I've missed anything in describing the problem.  

This is NOT, I repeat NOT, a user friendly transmission.

R&R alone can be a nightmare.

What I have seen is the forward clutch drum cracking.

But my experience with this transmission is limited.
Knock on wood, I won't see any more.  
Journeyman mechanic, transmission builder since 1963.

Sounds like the filter is clogged. Something in the trans is coming apart and the debris is clogging the filter. Its most likely clogged with clutch material usually from the TCC clutch {torque convertor clutch}  falling apart. The filter is between the case halves and you can't change it without removing the trans and taking it apart. You need an overhaul.

PS: If you do overhaul it put in the Transgo junior shift kit. It makes a huge difference in the performance.  

Thanks for the info, I had a feeling it needs to come out. What are some of the hiccups you've seen with the R&R?

So would a master kit and a shift kit suffice parts wise to make this tranny like new? Or are there any other parts I should buy while it's cracked open?

I'm ordering the rebuild book today. I'll get that first, study it, then order parts.  

Change the forward sprag {the small one} Inspect the big drum where the snap ring for the forward clutches sits the drum breaks right in that groove. The junior kit helps prevent that from happening too. Check the forward planetary gear. The pinions can move up and down but should not wobble from side to side. Check the play in the drive chain before you take it out. When you put the hub that splines into the reverse clutches back in make sure the notches on the hub line up with the lube holes in the drum thats critical. And make sure you replace the band even if it looks good because they snap. And flush the trans cooler real good because you don't want any dirt from the old trans to get in your new filter. Since it ran good up until the filter restricts you can use the same solinoid block if you want to save a few bucks.. The solinoids can be changed with the trans in the vehicle if you have to. When you're putting it back together put the pump in first and build it up from there. Be carful when you're putting the pump in its very easy to roll the pump oring and it will leak. I like to slide a feeler gauge around the outside of the pump after its in just to make sure the oring didn't get pinched or rolled over. I also use STP oil treatment to lube up the pump oring prior to installing the pump.




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Do yourself a favor and take the input sensor out of the pump before you put the trans on a bench.This trans has a tendency to roll over onto the pump and if the sensor is still in there it will get smashed. Another tip that will save you a major headache is do not remove the low/reverse clutch piston from the case. Those piston seals never go bad and they are a biotch to get the new ones in. The low.reverse clutches are the big ones under the big sprag in the case.  

I totally agree with 440t4......especially with the low/reverse piston in the case.  Another note to pay heed to is the reverse piston in the reverse input drum, (it's the drum where the band "wraps" around), piston is hard as hell to put in and rarely ever goes bad.  

This unit is not user friendly, it can bite ya in the butt big time, the shift kit does work well with it, but sometimes EVEN that is not enough, I usually replace the pump on every rebuild (a lot of crossleaks happen within it), just giving ya a heads up on the headaches I have come across with this bad boy.

Oh, and one other thing.....make sure you put the filter gasket on correctly on the solenoid block (it can go on two different ways), make sure it lines up with the passages on the solenoid block!  

Thanks for your share