Automotive Forums  Where Car Enthusiasts Go to Discuss Cars Online

I am relatively new to working on my car so I have a few (possibly stupid) questions about the new radiator I installed this past weekend...

I own a 1998 4 cyl Toyota Camry. This past summer, I noticed that the upper reservoir of the radiator had a pretty substantial crack in it and the radiator appeared to be completely empty (overflow area and the reservoir). So, I bought some sealant solution to mix up and put over the crack, hopefully sealing it up. Then, I bought a liquid to pour in the radiator itself, which is supposed to flow through the system and seal up any pinholes or small leaks.
Both of these things seemed to work okay for a short time and I had no problems with the car until this past week. I noticed the crack in the radiator (in the same spot) appeared to have returned and, again, the radiator was completely empty. I poured what was left of the sealant fluid into the radiator and got to Auto Zone as quickly as I could, figuring the sealing solution had simply not worked as a long-term solution and I would just buy a new radiator.
I bought the radiator, put it in, checked all the connections as best I could to see if any tubes felt weak or in danger of breaks. Got the thing all hooked up, poured in the antifreeze solution and everything seemed to be going great...for a few days.
Later, when I checked the reservoir, just for the hell of it, it was empty...again. I looked under the car and saw nothing on the parking lot or any evidence that the antifreeze might have leaked out over the course of the day or so I had not driven. So, I put more in, thinking I simply didn't know exactly how much antifreeze a new radiator needed before it would remain full.
Again, when I checked it tonight before driving home, the overflow area was still at the "Full" mark but the upper reservoir was empty...

Is this a result of the radiator being new and needing a lot of antifreeze to get things "started" or do I have a more serious problem?
Are there any other things you might suggest checking besides simply replacing all the connections to/from the radiator?
Where is all the antifreeze going if it's not under my car in the morning and it's not in the radiator?
Can I find a leak on my own or has it gotten to a point where I just need to take it into a shop?  

you have a bunch of problems..

operating the engine with a leaking cooling system.. is more than likely going to ruin the cylinder head gasket .. perhaps ruin the cylinder deck surface..  sometimes crack the head...

if the coolant level go low enough. the pistons can expand against the cylinder walls tight enough to distort and collapse.. when the engine gets back to normal operating temp the pistons will be tool loose in the cylinder bore..

this excessive heat.. will also take the tension out of the piston rings..


now.. you have added the stop leak to the cooling system..

that can clog all kinds of small holes.. .. again in the head gasket.. in the cylinder head.. the passages in the heater core.. and in the radiator...


when the engine is overheated.. you will also need to change the thermostat..

a group of tools is needed to pressure test the cooling system.. do to the small size of the radiator cap.. it takes a special adaptor for the radiator pressure tester...

this is one that might work..



this is the radiator pressure tester..



the adaptors shown above are for testing the various caps..  the single adaptor is for hooking to the radiator.. then the tester shown below is hooked to that..

i normally don't pump these systems over 7 pounds to begin with..

i don't recall if the 98 camry has a bleeder screw to let the air out of the cooling system somewhere on the engine or one of the cooling tubes..  


can you check the engine oil dip stick and verify the oil is not all creamy..   open the oil filler cap.. make sure the oil in there is NOT all creamy...  that would indicate that the cooling system has failed inside the motor and is leaking engine coolant into the crankcase..

you might look at autozone com   join and log in at the upper right.. select your car..   when logged in.. there is a repair info link just above where your car is listed..

it will take some searching around inside the various sections on how to properly fill the cooling system..

i have an early day in the morning.. so.. i will try to do more tomorrow night...

the cooling system has to be filled.. waiting for the thermostat to open..  then topped off..

but the system HAS to hold pressure.. it it totally possible that you might need other parts..  hoses... water pump.. if you do the water pump.. please change the timing belt also...

AZ used to have a component kit for the tensioners and idlers for the timing belt..  

oh... and you have to verify the radiator cooling fans come on before driving the car..

radiator fan switch failure has happened..

radiator fan relay failure has also happened..


the tools above.. are in the loan a tool section of your local autozone..   behind the counter..  

I made sure the fans were both working after I changed the radiator so I know they are working.

As for the other things...
The car belonged to my father before I acquired it. We had a problem with the engine before and actually ended up having it replaced, along with the exhaust system and quite a few internal components but obviously not the radiator or cooling system...which may have been the problem all along. This work was done in a shop and though I'm sure it's entirely possible, I find it hard to believe the mechanic working on it did not consider changing that too, since it can cause so many problems.
The reason I did the work on the car myself was to avoid labor charges and I know the answer is always going to be "bring it in so we can look at it" (and inevitably make you pay to replace something they "think" is wrong while potentially completely missing the real problem).
Considering the rather serious problems it sounds like this issue could potentially cause, is it safe to drive the car at all right now, at the risk of damaging the engine (again)?
If not, getting anywhere will certainly be an issue (even AZ to talk to someone there and rent the things required to check for leaks) but I certainly don't have the money to replace the engine again.  

Also, I know the oil on the dipstick looks fine but I'll check the rest of it to make sure it isn't a creamy consistency.  

Another quick question...
The old radiator had something that plugged into the bottom left side of the radiator that I believe was connected to the fan on the right. There is a plastic clip in the middle the wire group for the plug that clips into the bottom center of the radiator. The new radiator has the place to clip the plastic clip in but I saw nowhere to actually plug this in on the new radiator. The radiator is the right model for the car according to everything I looked at before buying it. According to the AZ diagrams it might be the ECT switch wire.
What is that plug to? Is it an issue that there wasn't anywhere to plug it into the new radiator?  

i have to run...  

if the system is overheating..  it will damage the motor...

i would look at the nice pictures on the AZ site...    i have needed  verify the vin numbers on a lot of cars...   the 8th digit is actually on the az selection chart..edit  looks like there is only 4 and 6....  are you sure of the model year.. how about the date of production off the door jam sticker...  or the 10th digit of the vin number..???


some az stores have those pressure testing tools available for rent....  pay for them.. then return them... gel all money back..  they are not front shelf tools.. they are behind the counter in the loan a tool section.. click on the image for the SKU#

radiator CU1909



radiator cooling fan switch.. sw1434




really got to run.. they are standing there waiting for me..

more later..

you must get rid of air from cooling system.. look for bleeder screw.. probably there.. i seem to recall one...i could be wrong..

if overheated... change the thermostat..    wax excapes when overheated causing not enough material to overpower return spring..  fails to open.. overheating happens again...

oe temp is 180F...