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frawg
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/09/11 05:32 PM
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I jumped cooling fan and it works. I am not getting power to the fan. The relay is good. Any ideas ???
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Posted: 10/09/11 07:54 PM
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yep!!!
open the factory service manual to the proper section and radiator cooling fans could be split into several sections in the manual..
study how its activated... follow the trouble shooting ...
it would really help.... if you posted what year, make,, model... engine type.. and if your car is equipped with factory AC...
as that can also operate the radiator cooling fans also..
there are too many different ideas in how to control the cooling fans...
you can get factory info for a lot of cars.. at alldatadiy.com or eautorepair.net
sometimes at autozone.com in the repair info section..
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frawg
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/09/11 08:03 PM
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the vehicle is an 02 jeep liberty w/3.7 v6 (sport) and has factory a/c. someone said it could be the cooling fan controller, since the fan will work when hooked up direct but there is no power coming to it. I have no idea where the controller is located and does it have an in line fuse ????
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Posted: 10/09/11 09:10 PM
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that model does have radiator cooling fans totally controlled by the engine control module..
please... try not to jump anything else... you can damage the fan controller and the ecm..
more to come...
you are going to need a factory service manual or the electronic version from info suppliers and a scan tool..
being a chrysler produce.. can you flip the key on 3 times in under 10 seconds.. on, off, on, off, on.. and look at the numbers that flash where the speedo is.. write them down..
you could have a C0???? code.. a P0???? code or a bunch of them..
i just printed 14 pages for a different model dodge windshield wiper problem..
eautorepair.net or alldatadiy.com
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Posted: 10/09/11 09:32 PM
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radiator fan relay..

all the metal studs are a heat sink to pull heat from the solid state controller module... or it will overheat and fail to function..
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frawg
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/10/11 02:54 AM
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since the fan works can I wire it direct so that the fan comes on when the engine is started, sounds stupid I know, just thought I would ask ....
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frawg
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/10/11 02:58 AM
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also when purchasing a cooling fan controller from parts store it has a fuse on one wire, You van see what I am talking about by looking up cooling fan controller for 02 jeep liberty sport 3.7 engine at O'rileys. Where is this located on vehicle ?
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frawg
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/10/11 03:15 AM
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I have also just read codes some of which may be old codes that were never cleared but here they are ; p1388 , p1491 , p0302 , and p1196
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Posted: 10/15/11 11:30 AM
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p1388 is the auto shutdown relay circuit...
p1491 radiator fan control circuit.
p0302 misfire in the #2 cylinder..
p1196 oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1... slow switching during catalyst monitoring..
each of these has a trouble shooting page...
sorry i missed your repeated posts...
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Posted: 10/15/11 11:32 AM
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i don't have a liberty manual... to give you an exact location..
its usually on the radiator fan shroud..
or on the radiator core support... where the airflow can cool it..
if you are still there.. post again...
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frawg
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 10/11
Posted: 10/29/11 07:02 PM
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I replaced the cooling fan relay located undr battery box and fans begin to work. Now the fan is no longer working once again any other ideas ? It is to late to see if the fan will work when hooked up direct tonite, will do first thing in the morning. Any other ideas if fan works and the new relay has power ?? This is an 04 jeep liberty w/2.2 engine.. THANKS
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Posted: 10/29/11 07:40 PM
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more to come....
P1491 SYMPTOM P1491-COOLING FAN RELAY CONTROL CIRCUIT
POSSIBLE CAUSES Radiator fan relay operation (C24) fused B+ output circuit (Z212) ground circuit (K173) radiator fan relay control circuit open (K173) radiator fan relay control circuit shorted to ground PCM
what i find interesting.. the MOPAR relay.. 68023333Aa is a kit with a new connector pigtail to crimp in...
did yours come with a new pigtail???? can you get at the connector.. disconnect it.. examine the terminals for signs of burning or overheating... i see the relay at a few sites online for under 50 bucks...
i am still looking for the diagram for that component.. seems it only fits the 2002 and 2003 liberty.. seems it also fit voyager and caravan models starting in 2003 up through 2008...
when mopar replacement parts come with a connector.. its usually required that it get installed... and properly crimped connectors are used..
still looking... i have a lot more info on voyagers...
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Posted: 10/29/11 09:02 PM
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this took some digging... good thing i have a big shovel..
BWD - Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay Part # R4827
http://eaccess.smpcorp.com/eCatalogs/Downloads/EMD/GF10158.pdf
Instruction Sheet for Jeep Liberty (ONLY) Solid State Relay Kit This kit contains: Additional Tools: (1) Solid state relay Module Drill (1) Instruction Sheet & Drilling Template Drill Set (1) Self Tapping Screw Center Punch (2) Convolute Tubing #25 Torx Driver & 10mm Socket Removal & Installation: 1. Disconnect negative battery cable. 2. Next, disconnect radiator fan relay 4-way connector. Using a 10mm socket, remove both self tapping screws and then the relay. 3. Does the relay you just removed resemble this image? If yes, go to step 4 If no, procedure has already been performed. Please skip to step 8. 4. Locate power steering cooler hoses. They will be next to the radiator fan relay. One of these hoses will have a 6" piece of convolute tubing next to it. Remove it. 5. Install the “new” convolute tubing over each hose to prevent chaffing on new module. 6. Cut Out drill template below. Push and turn the 10mm screws through the template at the EXISTING SCREW HOLE locations. Next, thread the screws back into their original holes in the frame of the vehicle. Center punch, through the template, the NEW HOLE location. 7. Drill the center punch location with a 3mm (1/8") drill bit. Follow that drill using a 10mm (25/64”) drill *** Remove template. 8. Install new relay by inserting the alignment pin in the newly drilled hole and then thread the provided #25 Torx into the original upper mounting hole. Torque to 40 in lbs. Reconnect relay 4-way connector. GF10158
this seems to indicate that the module needs to be moved... to prevent overheating....
even more...
Warning: The design and location of this part has been changed by the OE manufacturer. This replacement unit may not physically match the existing part, but will perform better than the OE unit being replaced. Additional cooling features have been added. Procedure: 1. Disconnect and remove the old fan relay. 2. Remove the PDC from the PDC bracket. 3. Connect the new fan relay to the harness and once connected move the new relay over to the lowest point (screw and locating pin will clear under the PDC) on the PDC bracket and mark the new hole locations. 4. There should be two holes drilled. 1) The locating pin on the new relay. 2) Screw hole to fasten the relay. 5. Once the holes are drilled, fasten the new relay to the bracket using the screw provided.
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Posted: 10/29/11 09:34 PM
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starting with the big wires...
pin 1... fused Bat +
pin 2.... radiator fan
pin 3 ground...
pin 4 radiator fan control...
from a caravan manual...
RADIATOR FAN RELAY DESCRIPTION The radiator fan relay is a solid state type and is located on the front bumper reinforcment (Fig. 21). Refer to WIRING DIAGRAMS for a circuit schematic. OPERATION The solid state radiator fan relay is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) by way of a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal. The relay control circuit supplies a 12 volt signal to the PCM. The PCM then pulses the ground circuit to achieve fan on time. The relay provides a voltage to the fan motors which is proportional to the pulse width it receives from the PCM. The duty cycle ranges from 30% for low speed operation, then ramps-up to 100% for high speed operation. This fan control system provides infinitely variable fan speeds, allowing for improved fan noise, A/C performance, better engine cooling, and additional vehicle power. To control operation of the relay, the PCM looks at inputs from: ² Engine coolant temperature ² A/C pressure transducer ² Ambient temperature from the body controller ² Vehicle speed ² Transmission oil temperature The PCM uses these inputs to determine when the fan should operate and at what speed. For further information on fan operation, (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - OPERATION). REMOVAL (1) Open hood. (2) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. (3) Remove the radiator crossmember to front fascia closure panel. (4) Disconnect the relay electrical connector (Fig. 21). (5) Remove the rivet attaching the relay to the front bumper beam (Fig. 21). (6) Remove the relay.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR DOES NOT OPERATE
1. Fan relay, powertrain control module (PCM), coolant temperature sensor, or wiring defective.
2. Defective A/C pressure transducer.
ELECTRIC RADIATOR FAN OPERATES ALL THE TIME
1. Fan relay, powertrain control module (PCM), coolant temperature sensor or wiring defective.
2. Check for low coolant level. 2. Add coolant as necessary.
3. Defective A/C pressure transducer.
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Posted: 10/29/11 10:10 PM
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do me a HUGE favor....
do you have a volt meter.. set the meter to 20 volt DC scale.. can you probe the ground wires to one of the fans... hook up the other test clip to the body... then power the fans on..
you should have less than 0.04 volts DC...
if you get 0.00.. change the meter setting to 2 volts scale... test again..
if you have more than the 0.04 volts or so.. PLEASE POST THE EXACT VOLTAGE... you have a bad ground connection..
either where the electric fans are grounded out infront of the core support.. or where the battery Negative cable comes down and connects to the frame rail...
if you have a bad ground.. you can burn out these electronic modules..
to test the rest of the car.... this test takes only about 2 minutes ...
next.... i would take a digital volt meter...
set it to 20 volts DC scale...
start the engine and turn on the headlights..
1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts. 14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.
2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..
3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..
4. test between the Engine block and the body.. 0.02 volts is expected.
if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...
this test takes about 2 minutes...
post your results by test number..
if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...
you have a bad ground between those parts..
why do this test.... bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks...
why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...
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