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Cam gear on top and crank gear on bottom.
Also pump idler and tensioner.
The inside belt goes to the crank and tensioner.

My question is what diess the other inside belt drive and does it need to be on to
check compression?

thanks Bob  

there are kits available to totally remove the balance shaft.. but that is usually done on only torn up blocks.. where the balance shaft bearings and bearing bores are torn up ...

the balance shaft makes it run smooth at some RPMs..  


you don't need the balance shaft to do a compression test..

ii don't think it runs the oil pump on that motor.. but it might..

try to keep the threads on one subject together. by just adding to the thread..  not starting a whole bunch of new threads on variations or questions..  

here is the other thread you started on this..

http://forums.automotive.com/70/8796593/engine/97-mitsubishi-timing-belt/index.html  

Thanks waynep

I was driving about 20 to 25 MPH and the engine just stoped.
After removing the cover I found the belt for the ballance shaft was gone and
took out the crank sensor and the plate that has the timing mark behond the crank
gear.
Timing belt was not broken.
After replacig the plate and lining up the marks I took a compression check and seem to have no compression in all 4 cylenders.
I'll look at it again this morning.

Bob  

did you see the timing marks on the other link..  

i am away from home right now so i don't have access to every piece of info i have .. as to if that year is an interferance engine or not...     where the valves occupy the same space as the pistons at different times...  except when the timing belt breaks..

according to the other link i posted.. and linked.. the cam sprocket marks should be at 9 o clock not 12 o clock...

if your cam is off by a quarter turn..   there would be no compression..  

one thing i have always tried to do..  is to preset the crank about 30 degrees off TDC when i am turning the camshaft.  this moves the pistons down slightly.. so the valves don't have any chance of striking the them..   once i get the cam where i want it...  then i turn the crank back to TDC to install the belt..

i hope that your engine is not an interference engine...  a call to the parts store might get you the info..  it will usually say on the same page the timing belts are listed on...

the first one of these mitsubishi motors i worked on was a 2.0.. the guy ask me what the weird noise was under the hood.. i said.. the timing belt is failing.. its unwrapping and the strings are hitting the timing cover..    he said he would bring it back later that day for a belt change..   he did not make it..  the belt failed about 10 miles away...   he always  got his timing belt changed ever 60K after that..  it was cheeper than towing when he could set up a day without the mini truck when i did it.. i have done 3 additional timing belt changes on that truck..  every 60K miles..

please be sure to spin the tensioner bearings with your hand..    if they rumble.. they need to be replaced..  they don't need usually to be replaced every time.. but they don't last more than 2 changes at 60K each..

i just did a ford six timing gear set..  had to break the gear apart then use a bearing splitter/puller to get the last of it off the cam shaft..  it did go 390K on the original gear..  

Thanks again

I do have an interferiance motor.

The 8 bent intake valves is a good clue.

I think the last guy changed the timing belt and not the ballencer belt because the

timing belt looked perfect except for the damage caused by the other belt.

Bob  

DOH!!!!

you might also want to examine the intake valve guides in the intake ports..

please.. use hylomar on both sides of the head gasket.. you will need to order it from hylomar...  permatex is again marketing it..  as HYLOMAR...  

nothing else is the same..