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I have a 97 Mitsubishi galant 2.4L 4cyl.
I believe the timing belt jumped time.
What is the procedure and how do you line up the timing marks.
The last timing belt I had to deal with was on a Chevy 8 cyl and it was a chain back in the 70s.

Bob  

Remove the upper engine mount-to-mount bracket nuts





Fig. Remove the upper engine mount through-bolt . . .





Fig. . . . then remove the engine mount from the vehicle





Fig. Remove the three upper timing cover retaining bolts . . .





Fig. . . . then remove the upper timing cover





Fig. Remove the A/C belt tensioner pulley and bracket assembly





Fig. Loosen the bolt on the tensioner pulley and slide the pulley to the left to relieve the tension on the timing belt





Fig. Make sure you mark the rotation of the timing belt if you plan on reusing the belt





Fig. Remove the timing belt from the engine by lifting it out the top





Fig. Unfasten the two timing belt tensioner retaining bolts . . .





Fig. . . . then remove the tensioner from the engine block





Fig. Remove the bolt and remove the crankshaft timing belt pulley





Fig. After unfastening the retainer, remove the CKP trigger wheel from the crankshaft





Fig. Remove the silent shaft tensioner retaining bolt . . .





Fig. . . . then remove the tensioner from the engine block





Fig. Remove the silent shaft belt from the engine

Be sure that the engine's No. 1 piston is at TDC in the compression stroke.


CAUTION
Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the spark plug wires from the tree on the upper cover.
Drain the cooling system.


CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.

Remove the shroud, fan and accessory drive belts.
Remove the radiator as required.
Remove the power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning compressor, tension pulley and accompanying brackets, as required.
Remove the upper front timing belt cover.
Remove the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley(s).
Remove the lower timing belt cover mounting screws and remove the cover.
If the belt(s) are to be reused, mark the direction of rotation on the belt.
Remove the timing (outer) belt tensioner and remove the belt. Unbolt the tensioner from the block and remove.
Remove the outer crankshaft sprocket and flange.
Remove the silent shaft (inner) belt tensioner and remove the inner belt. Unbolt the tensioner from the block and remove it.
To remove the camshaft sprockets, use SST MB990767-01 and MIT308239, or their equivalents.





Fig. Silent shaft alignment marks. Notice the tension side of the inner (silent shaft) belt-2.4L engine





Fig. Timing belt pulley alignment marks-2.4L engine

To install:

Install the camshaft sprockets and tighten the center bolt to 65 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
Align the timing mark of the silent shaft belt sprockets on the crankshaft and silent shaft with the marks on the front case. Wrap the silent shaft belt around the sprockets so there is no slack in the upper span of the belt and the timing marks are still in line.
Install the tensioner initially so the actual center of the pulley is above and to the left of the installation bolt.
Move the pulley up by hand so the center span of the long side of the belt deflects about 1 / 4 in. (6mm).
Hold the pulley tightly so it does not rotate when the bolt is tightened. Tighten the bolt to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). If the pulley has moved, the belt will be too tight.
Install the timing belt tensioner fully toward the water pump and temporarily tighten the bolts. Place the upper end of the spring against the water pump body. Align the timing marks of the cam, crankshaft and oil pump sprockets with the corresponding marks on the front case or head.


NOTE
If the following steps are not followed exactly, there is a chance that the silent shaft alignment will be 180 degrees off. This will cause a noticeable vibration in the engine and the entire procedure will have to be repeated.

Before installing the timing belt, ensure that the left side silent shaft is in the correct position.


NOTE
It is possible to align the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and the oil pump sprocket with the left balance shaft out of alignment.

With the timing mark on the oil pump pulley aligned with the mark on the front case, check the alignment of the left balance shaft to assure correct shaft timing.

Remove the plug located on the left side of the block in the area of the starter.
Insert a tool having a shaft diameter of 0.3 in. (8mm) into the hole.
With the timing marks still aligned, the tool must be able to go in at least 2 1 / 3 in. (59mm). If it can only go in about 1 in. (25mm), turn the oil pump sprocket one complete revolution.
Recheck the position of the balance shaft with the timing marks realigned. Leave the tool in place to hold the silent shaft while continuing.

Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and the camshaft sprocket, in that order. While doing so, be sure there is no slack between the sprockets except where the tensioner will take it up when released.
Recheck the timing marks' alignment.
If all are aligned, loosen the tensioner mounting bolt, and allow the tensioner to apply tension to the belt.
Remove the tool that is holding the silent shaft in place and turn the crankshaft clockwise a distance equal to two teeth of the camshaft sprocket. This will allow the tensioner to automatically tension the belt the proper amount.


WARNING
Do not manually apply pressure to the tensioner. This will overtighten the belt and will cause a howling noise.

First tighten the lower mounting bolt and then tighten the upper spacer bolt.


WARNING
If any binding is felt when adjusting the timing belt tension by turning the crankshaft, STOP turning the engine, because the pistons may be hitting the valves.

To verify that belt tension is correct, check that the deflection of the longest span (between the camshaft and oil pump sprockets) is 1 / 2 in. (13mm).
Install the lower timing belt cover. Be sure the packing is properly positioned in the inner grooves of the covers when installing.
Install the water pump pulley and the crankshaft pulley(s).
Install the upper front timing belt cover.
Install the power steering pump, alternator, air conditioning compressor, tension pulley and accompanying brackets, as required.
Install the radiator, shroud, fan and accessory drive belts.
Install the spark plug wires to the tree on the upper cover.
Refill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.  

warning... the crank center bolt is usually really really tight..  

bbuss2

Cam gear on top and crank gear on bottom.
Also pump idler and tensioner.
The inside belt goes to the crank and tensioner.

My question is what diess the other inside belt drive and does it need to be on to
check compression?





there are kits available to totally remove the balance shaft.. but that is usually done on only torn up blocks.. where the balance shaft bearings and bearing bores are torn up ...

the balance shaft makes it run smooth at some RPMs..  


you don't need the balance shaft to do a compression test..

ii don't think it runs the oil pump on that motor.. but it might..

try to keep the threads on one subject together. by just adding to the thread..  not starting a whole bunch of new threads on variations or questions..  

did you see the timing marks on the other link..  

i am away from home right now so i don't have access to every piece of info i have .. as to if that year is an interferance engine or not...     where the valves occupy the same space as the pistons at different times...  except when the timing belt breaks..

according to the other link i posted.. and linked.. the cam sprocket marks should be at 9 o clock not 12 o clock...

if your cam is off by a quarter turn..   there would be no compression..  

one thing i have always tried to do..  is to preset the crank about 30 degrees off TDC when i am turning the camshaft.  this moves the pistons down slightly.. so the valves don't have any chance of striking the them..   once i get the cam where i want it...  then i turn the crank back to TDC to install the belt..

i hope that your engine is not an interference engine...  a call to the parts store might get you the info..  it will usually say on the same page the timing belts are listed on...

the first one of these mitsubishi motors i worked on was a 2.0.. the guy ask me what the weird noise was under the hood.. i said.. the timing belt is failing.. its unwrapping and the strings are hitting the timing cover..    he said he would bring it back later that day for a belt change..   he did not make it..  the belt failed about 10 miles away...   he always  got his timing belt changed ever 60K after that..  it was cheeper than towing when he could set up a day without the mini truck when i did it.. i have done 3 additional timing belt changes on that truck..  every 60K miles..

please be sure to spin the tensioner bearings with your hand..    if they rumble.. they need to be replaced..  they don't need usually to be replaced every time.. but they don't last more than 2 changes at 60K each..

i just did a ford six timing gear set..  had to break the gear apart then use a bearing splitter/puller to get the last of it off the cam shaft..  it did go 390K on the original gear..