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BryLoy
New User
| Posts: 5
| Joined: 07/11
Posted: 07/15/11 09:04 AM
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I have a 1991 1.6 liter non turbo Capri with 50,000 miles that will not start. It cranks, fuel pump works, has spark, the STO (self test output) for the computer has steady 12v output and does not show codes. Things that were problems leading up to the not starting were a 9 blink code of the air bag light while it was running and a 5 beep code when the key is in the accessory position. The last straw was unhooking the high low pressure switch for the air conditioner and trying to start car. My guess is the PCM needs to be replaced but the other conditions were present before it would not start. Any help would be appreciated!
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Posted: 07/15/11 11:55 AM
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have you any NOID lights to see if the injectors are pulsing???

does it run when you give the intake a shot of carb cleaner or brake cleaner??? that would remove the ignition system from the failure to aim you right at the fuel injection side... on other models i usually pull off a vacuum hose and spray directly into the intake.. just a shot to prevent hydraulic locking the motor..
i don't have a LOT of info on this australian built model... i understand it uses a mazda 323 drivetrain.. i don't know if it uses mazda electronics or ford electronics
i see the wiring to the positive side of the fuel injectors is yellow and black... so you might want to check that has power.. you can test it at the self test connector.. yellow and black.. it comes from the EFI main relay and also supplies power for the fuel pump relay contacts... at least on the 1.3 wiring diagram..
see if it will at least fire up with the spray to isolate the problem to the fuel injectors of the ignition system..
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Posted: 07/15/11 12:08 PM
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you might also want to inspect the connection at the air flow meter...
i have found problems there on other models that use similar air flow meters.. where the connectors have corroded... removing the latching wire carefully and working the connector in and out a bunch of times will also clean the surface of the contacts..
if you run into green corrosion.. clean the connector and try it.. or you will need to change the connector pigtail... been there also...
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BryLoy
New User
| Posts: 5
| Joined: 07/11
Posted: 07/16/11 07:52 AM
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The car will fire with a shot of starter fluid so I know the injectors are not injecting. Fuel pump does pump but I havn't tested pressure yet, does the PCM control both ignition and injectors or can you have one without the other?
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Posted: 07/16/11 08:26 AM
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the ecm controls both.. but.. usually has control over the ignition only above 400 rpm... so it does not have to calculate spark for starting
there have been LOTS of problems with the Optical sensors in the distributers.. including leaking distributer shaft seals spraying oil and filling the TINY opening so the optical cannot see light through them.. and sometimes the optical pick up just fails... they were available separately ..
see if you have an autozone near by.. they have a loan a tool section with the noid lights i posted above.. harbor freight and other tools stores also sell them.. this will tell you if the injectors are being properly powered by the ECM... actually ...
i have to dig out another source of info.. as that wiring diagram turned out to be for a fiesta 1.3...a similar system.. but this uses a mazda 323 system... its like 7 or 8 wires to the distributer connector?????
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Posted: 07/16/11 08:44 AM
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edit... get the noid lights.. or check the black and white wire to the 4 injectors... that has its own circuit from the EFI main relay..
these are power outputs from the efi main relay.. then check for yellow and green wire from the main relay for power when cranking .. that powers a bunch of other devices...
these are power inputs to the contacts of the EFI main relay... the blue wire into the relay and the black and white wire into the main relay both have power.. probably switched power..
i am taking that this is what your engine control computer looks like..

i cannot seem to find a picture of what the EFI main relay looks like... the diagram for the turbo car looks like it is between the back of the left headlight and the front of the left shock tower...
this is what the fuel pump relay looks like...
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Posted: 07/16/11 09:27 AM
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i found one place with a picture of the main relay...

capri main relay
This Mercury Capri main engine control relay is located under/behind the LH headlight "bucket" and interfaces with the PCM/ECU.
Please note: This relay is no longer available from Ford. For easy reference, the Ford part number is: E8GY-12A646-C / E8GY12A646C
Application: All Mercury Capri models including the XR2 / Tutbo- 1991, 1992, 1993, & 1994 Mercury Capri main engine relay / sensor: 1991 /91 Mercury CapriMain Engine Relay / Main Engine Sensor, 1992 / 92 Mercury Capri Main Engine Relay / Main Engine Sensor, 1993 / 93 Mercury Capri Main Engine Relay / Main Engine Sensor, 1994 / 94 Mercury Capri Main Engine Relay / Main Engine Sensor
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Posted: 07/16/11 09:32 AM
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if that relay is bad... and if when you carefully remove it from its cover... thats its not repairable.. resolderable.. contacts cleanable..
one could create a new pair of relays to do the same function..
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BryLoy
New User
| Posts: 5
| Joined: 07/11
Posted: 07/16/11 01:53 PM
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According to the manual the STO (self test output) of the ecu/pcm....when tested...is is supposed to read STO low or 0 volts and if anything would be wrong the needle on an analog V ohm meter will sweep back and forth from low to 12 volts to spell out the code for the problem. When it stays at 12v would that indicate that the PCM is bad??
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Posted: 07/16/11 06:24 PM
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but .... did you get injector pulse at the injector connectors....
this is a double relay.... one set of contacts according to the wiring diagram... runs just the injectors.. the other set run a bunch of other devices on the motor...
lets try not to get ahead .... if you don't have a working relay... you won't have power to the both computer circuits...
eautorepair.net might have the EXACT wiring diagram for your model.... i only have the wiring diagram for the 1.3 fiesta... and the 1.6 turbo capri... book says the non turbo is similar.. that could mean its drawn with ink on paper..
which would you like to start replacing.. the cheep parts.. well the relay is actually NOT cheep... or the EXPENSIVE parts...
eautorepair.net is the consumer side of mitchell on demand repair info....... most of what professional mechanics pay a LOT for each month....
i only have about 25 lineal feet of manuals.. and i could easily double that to really cover stuff up to 1999.... beyond Y2K... i have only a few feet of manuals..
i also compared the mazda 323 engine control wiring.. mazda uses different colors than the capri... even though the systems are similar... i started to compare them.. but there was too much difference even through the computer connectors are similar...
to throw more into the twist... the california emission spec capri's use a conventional ford computer...
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BryLoy
New User
| Posts: 5
| Joined: 07/11
Posted: 07/17/11 10:04 AM
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I will test the relays and injector pulse...get some results.... Here is where you will find the service manual for the Capri http://www.techcapri.com/Repair/Capri_Service_Manual.htm5 What I also need to know is what does a 5 beep code when the key is in the accessory position mean?? anyone, anyone!!!!! Each PCM for the Capri's has specefics in its programming for motor size, Turb/non Turbo, calif car or no, What does 5 beeps mean??????
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Posted: 07/17/11 05:21 PM
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well after reading through probably 1000 pages of info... great site for capri info... i did not see why you would be getting 5 beeps in the accessory position...
do you still have the factory owners manual in the glove box... might describe the tone counts there...
i even did a search.. as my vision starts to return after all that reading.. i could not find any Beeping info... if you like puns..
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BryLoy
New User
| Posts: 5
| Joined: 07/11
Posted: 08/22/11 04:40 PM
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The problem has been solved! I was testing the main relay that is located behind the drivers side headlight can....which was fine by the way, but to do so I had to remove the coolant overflow bottle. In the process of testing I noticed there was some corrosion on a blue wire that went into this green three wire conector. Sure enough it was seperated and so I repaired the break. The car will now start but I still Have the 5 beeps when the ignition is turned to Acc. Does anyone know what that is???? Well thanks for the input and I hope this will help someone else!
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