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there are several different motors in that model.....

exactly which one..  i don't think the 2.2 was available..

check messages.... above..  

The Haynes and Autozone talk about the 2.2 and 2.3L. Yes, it's the 2.3L...  

I am told getting that pulley nut off is a bear. A friend did his car by going to the dealer and asking them to loosen it and then he snugged it to drive back home. Is there another way?  

i send people to tire shops to get them loosened..  as they have big strong impact guns..

i think we covered this above...

with the crank damper holding tools...  24 inch long breaker bars..

getting it tight is needed also..

as it pinches the crank timing sprocket tight against the crank.. there is a LOT of twisting from the cam as the lobes open and close the springs..  i have found other brands of cars where the crank sprocket was not tightened properly.. that the crank sprocket  which was a double D shape to position it on the crank.. was almost smooth on the inside.. where the rocking motion had worn away the flats..

when i gave the tech that new sprocket.. i added that if it rocks any when installing it by hand..   that he should put it all together leaving the upper timing cover off..   verifying that the crank damper timing mark is actually at the TDC mark when the cam sprockets are aligned.. then tighten the crank sprocket with the air impact.. then double check the timing marks again..

i have seen other motors where there was a little play.. and was able to align the crank and cam and then tighten the crank damper bolt to hold the sprocket tight..  it did take several tries to get it properly aligned..     that car owner was aware of the problem.. and brought the car back several times as we ask him to for a check to see it had not slipped..  it had not..  

Thanks. I was inquiring because the 2nd timing belt is near due. Working on the jeep today. Soon I will deal with the Honda. Something for me to think about in the meantime. Get back to you. Now off to get Jeep Parts. Thanks.  

A Powerbuilt brand version of the Honda crankshaft pulley holding tool is available from Amazon for just over $15. The price has come down so low that it almost doesn't make sense to not get one. Of course, if you've already bought one, never mind. I use two breaker bars.  One 24" long for the pulley holding tool braced against the ground (with a piece of wood to cushion it from the concrete) and another breaker bar for the crank bolt.

For the crank bolt I use a 24" long 1/2" drive extension supported at the fulcrum by a 6 ton jack stand (because a small jack stand isn't tall enough without propping it up with wood or bricks). I use a 4 ft. cheater pipe to increase control and leverage. When you use a cheater pipe the breaker bar doesn't have to be 24" but can be shorter like 15". It's the breaker bar head strength that is most important when using a cheater pipe. Anyway, there will be some give as the long socket extension (or stacked extensions) twist as you push down on the pipe/bar until you hear a loud crack which should be the crank bolt breaking loose.

After the bolt is removed, should you need to rotate the crank to line up the timing marks, you can use the 50mm holding tool with a ratchet or breaker bar to rotate the damper/pulley.

Torquing the crank bolt back on will be much easier.

Hope this helps.  

Thanks, When I finally get to it again, will check it out. I may have to pay for it to get done, sadly. Too much other going on. Have Jeep trouble, my Chevy is doing well, but the house pipes seem to drip and leak(not an old house, just lousy materials) and of course, me !!! Not 18 any more.
But sure would like to do it.
Thanks again