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interesting....  did you get the connectors on the PCM all the way plugged in... can you verify....  the PCM sends data to the dash board....

i am taking that this is the new PCM...

does the dash board work with the other ECM???/  the junk yard version???/ or the original version.. you should not need to reprogram the key....

i am taking the transmission noises are gone after the proper ECM was installed...  just swap and turn the key on to see if the dash board lights up..

you might also want to get into live data... look at the O2B1S1 ... you will notice on the right side of the display . the G is visible..  i forget.. but you  can either right arrow or enter... and view the sensor signal as a graph... make sure its ramping up and down...

you might want to plug into another OBD2 car and run the same test.. looking at the signal wave form... so you know what a good one looks like... do this test at 2500 rpms..

why.... i am looking at the short term fuel trim and long term fuel trim creeping toward the negative side... i want to makes sure that you don't have contaminated sensors that are not swinging properly...


oh.... does you normal driver have a cup holder...  stop by and pick up a bottle of rubbing alcohol...  take a pin and a pair of pliers and poke a hole in the lid... tiny hole... so it squirts a fine stream...  when you get back in your car... squirt your hands.. before you eat in the car.. squirt your hands...    after you shop.. wash your hands..   if you sneeze into your hands... wash your hands...  

a bit of reading....

http://www.picoauto.com/applications/lambda-sensor.html

http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1448

http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1075

http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=950


oh... even some you tube videos on this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yETQsEsPSt4

i have not watched them... and i have to reread the articles above...  i have stacks of magazines.. i just barely have time to gloss over...  yep.. look at the photos... read the captions..

hope you feel better...


here is one on multiplexing...

http://motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=74  

Thanks, Im just fine now. Gave me a chance to lie down , take time off work and see how to solve all the world's trouble by the daytime tv shows ( no wonder our country has become so 'dumb').

I did plug te scanner all the way in. I was having the Odometer light go dim before all the trouble so I do not think it is related. Could be a simple bulb? Or something else. I don't know how the odometer works on these things. I suspect they are backlighted?

And the transmission noises are gone. Shifts fine. I think you may have been right in that it came from a clutch car. Makes sense that it would be programmed for it.

There are  ?  where you say there is a G.  I can't get the graph. I did last time for some data. I'll look it up. I can scroll thru it and it gives me different V reading. But no graph.  

the printed manual page 33...  

you have to have the proper line selected... like the O2 sensor...

the TPS can be graphed also.... along with  bunch of others..  

I did graph. The scanner only graphs while plugged in to the car. Does Not read offline, correct? No G when offline and plugged into my laptop  

Looks like I have a missing connection somewhere or a blown fuse because of the odometer not reading because the trans light on the floor is not lite either. I'll check the fuses in the morning. Any other possible connection? I have to find a wiring diagram for the trans light and the odometer light to see if on the same circuit. At one time , I did check the fuses, every single one when the injectors 1 and 2 were not firing. I did use an ohmmeter. So have to look if somewhere I may have chaffed and grounded the wires? I would think the fuse would blow?  

Looks like I have a missing connection somewhere or a blown fuse. The odometer is not lit p so it cannot be read AND  the transmission gear indicator light on the floor is not lit, and the rear license plate lit is out. I'll check the fuses in the morning. Any other possible connection? I have to find a wiring diagram for the trans light, rear plae light and the odometer light to see if they on the same circuit. At one time , I did check the fuses, every single one when the injectors 1 and 2 were not firing. I did use an ohmmeter. All were good. I will check them again.   So have to look if somewhere I may have chaffed and grounded the wires? I would think the fuse would blow? The car did sit in my garage for about 9 months. Maybe a little varmint got in? Don't think so but I did nail a few going after our fruit trees . They came from the National fForest that sits 3 blocks in back of me. The fruit trees and further in the back.  Did not think they would have gotten into the garage. No typical signs in there.  

its possible its a fuse....

probable...

but... if its just the dashboard data that does not work... it might be one of the 4 connectors at the PCM.. that is not fully seated...


as for the graphing the LIVE data stream.. yes the scan tool has to be plugged in..   to display sensor graphed data streams...

so much better....   did you get a chance to read up on the articles i posted tonight...  

I did read some. Thank you. And did see the youtube videos. I will read more detail later. Right now, I'm off to do the test run and see how it goes. I'll post what happens.  

We have a victory.  I drove the GM procedure for setting the PCM-sensor_Evap etc setup. Did the accelerate at 1/2 throttle to 55mph . Maintain for 3 mins then coast to 20mph. Then the 3/4 throttle accel to 55mph, maintain for 5 mins. Then coast to 20mph. Funny to do on the freeway. Lucked out each time because had traffic break when time to coast. Then drifted to the shoulder from 40mph until 20mph. Surprised how long it took to coast down. Nice having newly paved shoulders and cleared of debris.
Set all the O2 etc, sensors. Ran the pretest. Passed fine. Then the smog. Passed fine. A little high in the NOx at 15mph but below the limit. A fuel cleaning will take care of that. I have a guy who does a great job, no harm to the engine.
And the odometer showed up? I think its still a loose wire because very dim. It was before. So I have a few things to button up on this car to get it in nice shape again. At least I know the engine is good, as good as the 2.2L ever was. The 2.2L does not have a great history. I was fortunate with the last engine with regular care, oil changes with semi-synthetic at 3000 miles, plugs, wires etc... Stretched the engine. See how far go with this one. I was somewhat assured that I wasn't crazy to blame the local shop for blowing my original engine. The smog guy told me he ran into customers who came in and he reattached or found broken wires from being 'played' with at certain shops like I suggested. He wasn't going to make a lawsuit for someone, but we both understood.
I think in my next adventure in school, I'll study law and see if I can assist in running these kind of shops out of town!
So for now , I have the car running well, passed smogs but still have other issues still to resolve with this car. So I am Not done here.
Thanks for all the help here, to get this car this far.

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Next car project...
89 Acura Legend.   Has crank angle sensor problem.   Believe distributor.
94 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 2WD    Leak at the oil filter adapter.
89 Isuzu Trooper, 2.4  4cyl  4WD, Needs engine rebuild??
84 VW Vanagon   Maybe a Subaru engine transplant   and its legal in this state !
1978 Dodge Motorhome, with the big 45X cu inch motor. Maybe rebuild it. , and repair leak in roof. Endless problem
Then the mrs wants a new car, trade the 2002 Honda in. Or give it to my daughter in college next year.
Off to do the oil seal adapter leak in the Jeep.