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Engine Lock

 
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Fordowner Fordowner
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 05/10
Posted: 05/25/10
06:04 PM

What can cause an engine to lock?  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 05/25/10
06:30 PM

are you sure its locked????/   i have seen starters fail in a way that made me believe the engine was locked...  see if you can rotate the crank via the crank center bolt that is usually accessible inside the fender well on front wheel drive cars...


fluid filling a cylinder.. could be gasoline.. water.. coolant..

mechanical damage...  where the engine broke something major... the crank or a rod...

bearing damage...   many years ago..  a friend dropped off his VW bug...  just told me i won't start... he dropped it and ran off...   i walked out to take a look...  the engine was seized...  i ask him when it failed to start... he replied that he was driving at about 75 down the freeway...  and the engine died and would not start.. so he described the problem as it won't start...   i pulled the dipstick... it was over a quart low on oil... he had seized the main bearing surfaces ... grabbing the crank and stopping it from turning...  he had removed the clearance between the inside of the bearing shells and the crank surface when the bearings melted...  

i have seen other cars that failed to start...   that had connecting rods sticking out the side of the block...

one had 5 major dents from the inside of the block.. on a 4 cylinder motor... i ask the owner about the engine oil.. as it was terribly dirty...   he told me that he had gotten the car for his son to make the 90 mile round trips to university everyday... and that the prior owner had told him that everything had been done to the car... he did not need to do anything...    seems there was a communication problem...  he thought is never needed to at least have the oil changed..  so he did not do it...   ran the car for over a year... 90 miles a day without oil changes..

he did save money by towiing it him self.. with a rope around the radiator.. crushed it.. crushed the core support also.. tore the front grill off..   really did a fine job of destroying that car...


so... can you explain  a little more of what was happening when it locked up.. and what happened just before...


perhaps a description of what kind of car..   year.. make.. model ,, engine size and type..  it is in.. as different motors have different repeat failures...  

Fordowner Fordowner
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 05/10
Posted: 05/26/10
07:26 AM

2002 Ford Explorer, 4L 6cyl

Broke down and couldn't jump
towed to a shop who diagnosed the problem as idler pulley and serpentine belt
recommended new battery too
we went ahead with the repair and asked to add an oil change
we waited to pick up vehicle til the end of the day
when we got there the vehicle was up on the lift
they then seemed to rush to get it out
when we started it, the engine was obviously not running right
was rough sounding
they told us they didn't know of anything else wrong except for what they fixed
if there was anything else wrong, we would have to go somewhere else
maybe 2 or 3 short trips later, within a few miles of each other
the vehicle broke down again, we had it towed back to the same shop
they then told us the engine locked up
we towed it to another shop who confirmed that the engine was locked
and noted the new oil filter but the oil was dark and dirty
we had to find another engine and have it installed
it was an expensive proposition and we couldn't afford to have the engine disassembled as well
the shop, which is part of a chain, refused to help us except to not charge for the belt repair (as long as we signed forms agreeing to to sue)

I'm looking for opinions from well trained mechanics:
would anything else but lack of oil have caused engine to lock?
if the oil was changed, could it have become so dark and dirty within a few miles
of driving?  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 05/26/10
09:29 PM

well thats a totally different angle...  actually that motor can get you from either end...

here is some more info i googled..

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1a8u5-dead-center-for-timeing-for-1997-ford-explorer


text

Question

had to change timeing chain rear one due to plastic brace broke can not find timeing set for it

 

Accepted Answer

On the 4.0L SOHC engine, there are four chains which are used to time the camshafts and balance the engine. There is a jackshaft mounted in the middle of the engine block. The two camshafts are connected to the jackshaft by two chains. The jackshaft is connected to the crankshaft by a third chain. Also, a balance shaft assembly is chain driven off of the crankshaft and timed to the rotation of the engine.
In order to remove either of the camshaft timing or balance shaft chains, the jack shaft chain and sprockets must first be removed. Once the jackshaft chain is removed, the left-hand camshaft and the balance shaft chain can be serviced. In order to remove the right-hand camshaft chain, the jackshaft must be removed. Additionally, in order to service either camshaft chain assembly, the cylinder heads must be removed.
According to the manufacturer, the engine must be removed in order to service the timing chain and sprocket assemblies.
Remove the engine from the vehicle.
Remove the oil pan and ladder frame
For ladder frame removal procedures, refer to the oil pump removal and installation procedure in this section.
Remove the front cover attaching bolts and remove the cover.
Remove the cylinder heads

View Full Image
Fig. 20: Install a pin into the jackshaft chain tensioner (arrow)

View Full Image
Fig. 21: Remove the jackshaft sprocket (arrow) bolt
Install a pin in the jackshaft tensioner to hold it in the locked position.
Loosen and remove the jackshaft sprocket bolt.
Remove the jackshaft sprocket and chain assembly.

View Full Image
Fig. 22: View of the left-hand front cassette retaining bolt (arrow)
Remove the left-hand front cassette retaining bolt and remove the cassette (chain and tensioner assembly).
Position the engine to gain access to the rear of the engine. Ensure that the flywheel is removed.

View Full Image
Fig. 23: The rear jackshaft plug (arrow) must be removed from the back of the engine block

View Full Image
Fig. 24: View of the right-hand rear cassette retaining bolt
Remove the rear jackshaft plug from the back of the engine block.
Remove the right-hand rear cassette retaining bolt and spacer.

View Full Image
Fig. 25: Remove the rear jackshaft sprocket retaining bolt (arrow)
Loosen and remove the rear jackshaft sprocket bolt, then remove the cassette (chain and tensioner assembly).
If the balance shaft chain is to be serviced, do it before installing the timing chains.
To install:
Thoroughly clean all gasket mating surfaces. Use new gaskets and coat them with a sealer/adhesive.
Install the right-hand rear cassette and the sprocket-to-jackshaft bolt.
Install the rear cassette retaining bolt.
Install the rear jackshaft plug.
Install the front cassette and its retaining bolt.
Position jackshaft sprocket and chain on the engine and remove the tensioner pin.
Install the jackshaft sprocket bolt and tighten in two stages.
Stage 1: 32-35 ft. lbs. (43-47 Nm)
Stage 2: Turn an additional 65-75
Install the cylinder heads. Time the chains as outlined in the cylinder head procedure.
Install the front cover and tighten all of the bolts.
Install the ladder frame and oil pan.
Install the engine into the vehicle.
Run the engine and check for leaks.
5.0L Engine
See Figure 26
Remove the engine front cover.
Rotate the engine until the No. 1 piston is at TDC. Align the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket to the crankshaft sprocket.
Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt.
Slide the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets and chain forward until all three components are removed.
To install:
Position the crank and camshaft sprockets and chain assembly to the engine.

View Full Image
Fig. 26: Timing chain assembly alignment marks on the 5.0L engine
Ensure that the timing marks on the two sprockets are aligned.
Install the camshaft sprocket bolt and washer. Tighten to 40-45 ft. lbs. (54-61 Nm).
Install the front cover.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
TIMING CHAIN DEFLECTION
Remove the timing chain tensioner.
Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise (as viewed from the front of the engine) to take up the slack on the left hand side of the chain.
Mark a reference point on a block approximately at mid-point of the chain. Measure from this point to the chain.
Rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to take up the slack on the right hand side of the chain. Force the left hand side of the chain out with your fingers and measure the distance between the reference point and the chain. The deflection is the difference between the two measurements.
If the deflection measurement exceeds specification, replace the timing chain and sprockets.
If the wear on the tensioner face exceeds 1.5mm, replace the tensioner.
When installing the crankshaft sprocket, fill the keyway chamfer cavity with EOAZ-19554-AA Threadlock and Sealer or equivalent, flush with the front face of the sprocket.


Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1a8u5-dead-center-for-timeing-for-1997-ford-explorer#ixzz0p6J3voNd  

Enginecure Enginecure
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 06/10
Posted: 06/09/10
01:46 PM

From: EngineCure Technology, LP
     107 Janet Lane, Coatesville, PA 19320 USA


A. CAUSES WHY AN ENGINE LOCK ARE;

1. When you accidentally run your engine without water.
2. When you turned your engine off when it is overheating.
3. When the metal parts inside the engine expanded due to overheats.
4. When your engine is running without oil.
5. When something hard metal objects drop off inside the engine by accidents.
6. When one of the  parts inside the engine got broken while in motions.
7. When one of the engine connecting rods runs broken.
8. When one of the piston rings has got damaged.
9. When the piston itself goes broken.
10.When the engine camshaft gets damaged.
11.When the engine mainshaft or crankshaft goes broken down.
12.When metal the fatigue is extremely unbearable beyond limits.


B. EFFECTIVE SOLUTIONS TO PREVENT THOSE TROUBLES MENTIONED ABOVE;

You have to use XADO REVITALIZANT "NANO: TECHNOLOGY PRODUCTS in order to resolve and prevents the engine to get lock for a very specific reasons that when you use Xado Gel Revitalizant, your engine would be;

1. Running very smooth and powerful.
2. Running with reduced engine vibrations.
2. Running with reduced engine temperatures.
3. Transformed the cylinder and other parts of the engine into "CERAMIC METAL   SURFACE" that would becomes as crystal clear that prevents from overheating and "ENGINE LOCK".
4. Protected when it is in a catastrophic running without oil.
5. Protected from any breakage of the piston rings, camshafts, and other inner parts of the engine that causes "ENGINE LOCK".
6. Ultimately protected from overheating and from "ENGINE LOCK".

NOTE: The Xado Gel Reviltalizant treatment process would only take a few minutes without dismantling and without installing with any gadgets to protect your engine.  

You may call immediately to EngineCure Technology at # 610-857-2176 or visit our website at > www.enginecure.com <

"CALL or VISIT NOW, ACT POSITIVELY WITHOUT ANY DELAY" for an immediate, effective and comprehensive solutions. EngineCure Technology is ready to serve you at anytime and anywhere...  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 06/09/10
11:55 PM

pouring anything into this engine is not going to fix a broken timing chain guide rail... and fix the out of alignment cam problems...

if it is.. you should be able to market it to ford..

i am taking that this product come with an expressed warrantee..

MONEY GONE IF NOT THRILLED!!!!

by the way.. you have now been put on the scientology membership calling list..


good luck getting off that one..



oh.. by the way.. magnets dropped into the gas tanks actually do work...   they attract the red powder found in a lot of gas tanks...   that red powder is rust.. ... it gets into fuel filters... gets through fuel filters and into fuel pumps and carbs...   causing the fuel pump check valves to leak and reduce fuel pressure.. and causing the needle and seats in the carbs to hang slightly open..  leaking un metered fuel into the motors reducing fuel economy...    i had a customer with a problem of repeated dirty fuel filters..  i opened the fuel filters and kept finding this red powder..  mixed it up in some gasoline..   used a magnet in the pan of gas.. it all went to it...

we then stuck a big really strong speaker magnet to the bottom of the tank...   i did not have to change fuel filters on that truck for years..  after years .. he wondered if the magnet was working.. he pulled it off the bottom of the tank...   he only made it a mile before the filter clogged...

magnets are cheep...   radio shack sells little tiny rare earth magnets..   they are enough to work if you can get them into the bottom of the gas tanks.  inside... when changing fuel pumps..  or sending units.. or pushed carefully through a hose in the filler neck...   i have found some that were stuck to the top of the tank... .. strong they are..  

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