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Take the bottom plastic cover off covering the switch assembly,
If you can get the key to move forward toward the start position like one quarter of the turn, there are two slots on the outside of the barrel & tumbler housing you have to depress each one while pulling on the key this will reliese the barrel & tumbler with the key . once it is out be carefull not to let any of the pens fall out, i would sugest taping the outside of the barrel DO NOT REMOVE THE KEY NOW AS THE TUMBLERS AND SPRINGS WILL FALL OUT.
Good luck but I think (as I am going thru the same *** for the third time) the whole assembly has to be changed out not just the barrel & tumbler part.  

PLEASE READ! you can fix this problem for free in 6 minutes for good!

Hello everyone, the problem is when Chrysler made the tumbler (where the ignition is) for the key, they left the pins hollow. 99.9% of the times, grime and lint attaches to your key and gets lodged inside of your tumbler pins locking them and disabling there function thus why you can not turn your key nor start the car. Ive read a lot of post about people spending astronomical amounts of money fixing this problem and wasting endless amounts of time due to a misunderstanding of the equipment. Along with people carrying hammers to hit the column or tumbler shell to jostle them out of their stuck in position, (very silly). IT CAN BE FIXED IN 6 MINUTES WITH NO MONEY! i did it, and you only need WD-40 a screwdriver and this knowledge.

1st- if you do not own a mechanical kit specifically for your car (screwdrivers wrenches lubricant and road flares anything you may need if your car breaks down) that's kept in the vehicle at all times, buy one! Vehicles work only as well as their owners knowledge of them, preventive maintenance is essential with that said,
remove the two screws from the top cover over the steering wheel and remove the cover.

2nd- remove the lover assembly piece of that cover.

3rd- lubricate the interior of the tumble with WD-40

4th-insert the key in and out until it loosens the tumbler pins and they fall enabling
you to turn the key counter clockwise starting the vehicles electronic system.

5th- with a screwdriver, their is a locking pin underneath the tumbler that's very visible. depress the pin and pull the tumbler out of the steering column.

6th- you will see that the tumbler will rotate on itself and has a secondary pin on the neck just beneath the face of the key hole, that needs depressed to allow you to remove the tumbler shell and expose the pins.

7th-most likely the first to pins are filthy pull them and clean them and inspect the rest.

8th-reassemble.

This is Literally all you need to fix it for good or at least till you get it dirty again. all a locksmith will do sit and act like hes never seen it before and take his time playing dumb and charging you more money on something that unless its their first day they've seen endless times as it is a infamous problem with these vics but time is money and knowledge pays off. be smart!

if in this situation do not call a car dealership or jeep dealer, if you are in the .01 percent call a locksmith and if a new key is needed to be programmed the key code is 12324311 this will save him some time and you some money! yes programming keys must be done in pairs By the way.

good luck everyone.  

PLEASE READ! you can fix this problem for free in 6 minutes for good!

Hello everyone, the problem is when Chrysler made the tumbler (where the ignition is) for the key, they left the pins hollow. 99.9% of the times, grime and lint attaches to your key and gets lodged inside of your tumbler pins locking them and disabling there function thus why you can not turn your key nor start the car. Ive read a lot of post about people spending astronomical amounts of money fixing this problem and wasting endless amounts of time due to a misunderstanding of the equipment. Along with people carrying hammers to hit the column or tumbler shell to jostle them out of their stuck in position, (very silly). IT CAN BE FIXED IN 6 MINUTES WITH NO MONEY! i did it, and you only need WD-40 a screwdriver and this knowledge.

1st- if you do not own a mechanical kit specifically for your car (screwdrivers wrenches lubricant and road flares anything you may need if your car breaks down) that's kept in the vehicle at all times, buy one! Vehicles work only as well as their owners knowledge of them, preventive maintenance is essential with that said,
remove the two screws from the top cover over the steering wheel and remove the cover.

2nd- remove the lover assembly piece of that cover.

3rd- lubricate the interior of the tumble with WD-40

4th-insert the key in and out until it loosens the tumbler pins and they fall enabling
you to turn the key counter clockwise starting the vehicles electronic system.

5th- with a screwdriver, their is a locking pin underneath the tumbler that's very visible. depress the pin and pull the tumbler out of the steering column.

6th- you will see that the tumbler will rotate on itself and has a secondary pin on the neck just beneath the face of the key hole, that needs depressed to allow you to remove the tumbler shell and expose the pins.

7th-most likely the first to pins are filthy pull them and clean them and inspect the rest.

8th-reassemble.

This is Literally all you need to fix it for good or at least till you get it dirty again. all a locksmith will do sit and act like hes never seen it before and take his time playing dumb and charging you more money on something that unless its their first day they've seen endless times as it is a infamous problem with these vics but time is money and knowledge pays off. be smart!

if in this situation do not call a car dealership or jeep dealer, if you are in the .01 percent call a locksmith and if a new key is needed to be programmed the key code is 12324311 this will save him some time and you some money! yes programming keys must be done in pairs By the way.

good luck everyone.  

i work for a tow company and i come across the problem all the time...more so on chrysler products than any other...doin the graphite and wd-40 isnt going to help...the tumbles in the actual ignition get jammed and wear out, usually if there are alot of keys or key rings hanging off of it...the way i usually get the key to turn is, take it off all rings put it in the ignition and tap the back of the key with something solid (hammer handle on a screw driver). that should work for a while until you can get the ignition replaced  

Ignition switch failure is a very common problem with Jeep vehicles as you can see by all of the posts.

The end result is that the ignition switch will probably need to be replaced.

amazingkeys.com has the Jeep switches for $49.99 and they will match up your old keys to the new switch.  This will allow you to use your old keys and not have to buy new keys.  This will also avoid having to pay for cutting and programming new keys.  

I started having problems with my Ignition Lock Cylinder gradually over the last several months, and was always able to get it un-stuck by jiggling the key a bit as I turned the key...  that was until this morning!  No matter what I tried, it just would not turn.  I decided that it was time to replace the lock cylinder and went on-line to look for advice.  I am SOOO happy that I did.

After reading this thread, I determined that it was something that I could do myself.
While the hitting of the Gear Shift Lever did not free up the key, the Rubber Mallet technique worked, and I was able to remove the lock cylinder.  The steps I took:

1. Removed key from key ring and started tapping the back of the key while turning the key, tapping with slightly stonger force each time.  On the 3rd tap the key rotated in the cylinder.  I did NOT turn the engine on at this point - but probably could have.  I will keep a small mallet in my vehicles from now on!

2. Removed lower half of steering column cover.  One single philips screw in the bottom of the cover, and the plastic clips on the sides popped apart with a small flat-blade.

3. Located the retaining spring pin (small square pin) from bottom of lock cylinder, and pushed it up and in with a small flat-blade screwdriver.  I had to rotate the key a bit more to allow this pin to move.

4. Pulled on key to remove the lock cylinder from steering column.  I was very tempted to see if I could have started the engine with a large flat-blade screwdriver at this point, but I didn't want to risk damaging anything...   :-)

5. Purchased replacement lock cylinder from Jeep ($106), had tumbler re-keyed to match my existing keys ($98) - Did NOT purchase replacement keys (would have been $60 each, and would have needed two), Since I was not replacing the keys - did not need to have system re-programmed (would have cost another $150).

Total cost was $193 after taxes and 10% Military discount

6. Re-installed new Lock cylinder myself about 2 hours later, and everything worked great.

Thanks for the great web site, and great tips.  I did notice that you can buy Lock Cylinder and tumbler kits with keys on-line at partsgeek.com for $50 but I couldn't wait for the shipping.

Best of luck to everyone who has this problem!!

Todd  

Well folks my 2003 Grand Cherokee had the same problem it started out every so often and today it finally quit. I fought and fought and then found this web site. The tapping of the end of the key after the WD40 squrit into the ingnition worked on the first try, I mean I had 2 hours with WD40 and tapping on the cylender houseing but this method worked first try. I am going to keep it oiled and try it for  while befor I replace it.

thanks to all the post....!!!  

CAUSE/SOLUTION AT $0.00 COST

First of all, it's not dirt, dust, or any other FOD getting into your mechanism. Fact is, it's simply a questionable design, further a matter of wear within the lock that causes the problem. It happened to me a couple times over the years, but it finally locked up for good today. Here's what I did about it.

Having removed all the dash and steering column shrouds, as to get a good look at the system and access it, I tried everything to get it to move; however, it finally came down to taking vice grips to the outer, chrome casing which the key goes in, having already removed the outer plastic parts which surround it.  Keep the key in while you do this, and don't apply too much pressure with the vice grips. Apply just enough to firmly grab the chrome casing. Having done this, I turned the vice grips in the start direction, and the lock finally moved; then, I was able to depress the little metal tab on the bottom to remove the ignition lock assembly. Note; you must be able to turn the key, as to remove the lock; otherwise, there be drilling involved, and you wont be able to repair the lock.

Once you get the bloody thing out, you must depress the two, small, chrome pins that dictate where the lock stops when turning the key. You'll then be able to turn the lock farther than intended, further to the point where the inner assembly will slide out from within the casing. Once you've accomplished this, you'll see 8 metal tabs sticking out of the inner casing drum. These are the problem. Please note that each is  unique, further intended to be in the given slots they're in; therefore, make a small diagram on a peace of paper.  You'll then be able to take a pair of needle nose pliers and remove each tab by merely grabbing and pulling them out.  There will be a small spring beneath each one, so make sure you set them in a safe place. Also place each of the metal tabs on the diagram you made, as to assure you're able to keep track of each.

Thereafter, you'll come to realize how this lock actually functions, further why it stopped doing so.  Notice that upon each tab there is an indentation located at different places along the side of each tab.  This indentation lines up with the single, spring loaded bar along side the drub when you insert the key; causing the bar to depress and allow the drum to turn freely within the outer casing. You might also notice that some of these tabs have not only the aforementioned indentation, but an additional smaller indentation right next to it. Well, guess what.  It's not suppose to have more than one, and that's where it's getting hung up when you try to start the car. Therefore, I merely took a very small file and removed the additional indentation. Sure, it took some of the metal on that side away; however, this allows the metal tab to slide along that bar and "not" jam your lock anymore. It also does not hinder the locks ability to do so.

I also took each tab and filed it flat on each side. Indeed; I removed a thousand or so of an inch from the tabs, as to further assure they would slide back and forth easily and without binding. I also laid some wet sand paper down on the counter and rubbed the tabs on each side to remove any scoring. I used 800 grit first, then 2000 to smooth it up. And if you don't have a file, the sand paper will work well by it's self.  Just make sure the tabs are quite flat, smooth, and no burs of any kind by the time you're done. Might also consider cutting some sand paper, bending it in half, and cleaning the channels in the drum where they slide into.

After doing each tab, stretch the spring of each "very slightly," as to make them about 1/16 of an inch longer than they were. Carefully! Then, insert it before going to the next tab and make sure it springs back and forth easily. You might want to insert all before doing any refining; in that all tabs and their perspective springs work against the single bar and it's two springs. It's easy enough to see which is "actually" binding once their all in, and then merely remove and repeat the aforementioned steps.

This wee project sounds a bit complicated; however, if not only figured it out on my own, but managed to complete it in about three hours. And yea; my lock was quite screwed! Had to use the vice grips and a pipe wrench to turn it in the accessory direction before I could even get the drum out once I had it out of the car. However, it's sitting on the desk in front of me right now, and it's working like new. Just put a bit of sewing machine oil in it and that was that.

Oh, and if you're considering just buying a new one, keep in mind that most are like mine.  They have transponder keys which must be programmed by the dealer, so merely buying a new lock isn't the end of it. The cheapest I've seen the locks is about forty bucks, and I would guesstimate total cost to be between one hundred and two hundred bucks by the time you're done replacing it; therefore, give it a shot... worked for me.  

CAUSE/SOLUTION AT $0.00 COST

First of all, it's not dirt, dust, or any other FOD getting into your mechanism. Fact is, it's simply a questionable design, further a matter of wear within the lock that causes the problem. It happened to me a couple times over the years, but it finally locked up for good today. Here's what I did about it.

Having removed all the dash and steering column shrouds, as to get a good look at the system and access it, I tried everything to get it to move; however, it finally came down to taking vice grips to the outer, chrome casing which the key goes in, having already removed the outer plastic parts which surround it.  Keep the key in while you do this, and don't apply too much pressure with the vice grips. Apply just enough to firmly grab the chrome casing. Having done this, I turned the vice grips in the start direction, and the lock finally moved; then, I was able to depress the little metal tab on the bottom to remove the ignition lock assembly. Note; you must be able to turn the key, as to remove the lock; otherwise, there be drilling involved, and you wont be able to repair the lock.

Once you get the bloody thing out, you must depress the two, small, chrome pins that dictate where the lock stops when turning the key. You'll then be able to turn the lock farther than intended, further to the point where the inner assembly will slide out from within the casing. Once you've accomplished this, you'll see 8 metal tabs sticking out of the inner casing drum. These are the problem. Please note that each is  unique, further intended to be in the given slots they're in; therefore, make a small diagram on a peace of paper.  You'll then be able to take a pair of needle nose pliers and remove each tab by merely grabbing and pulling them out.  There will be a small spring beneath each one, so make sure you set them in a safe place. Also place each of the metal tabs on the diagram you made, as to assure you're able to keep track of each.

Thereafter, you'll come to realize how this lock actually functions, further why it stopped doing so.  Notice that upon each tab there is an indentation located at different places along the side of each tab.  This indentation lines up with the single, spring loaded bar along side the drub when you insert the key; causing the bar to depress and allow the drum to turn freely within the outer casing. You might also notice that some of these tabs have not only the aforementioned indentation, but an additional smaller indentation right next to it. Well, guess what.  It's not suppose to have more than one, and that's where it's getting hung up when you try to start the car. Therefore, I merely took a very small file and removed the additional indentation. Sure, it took some of the metal on that side away; however, this allows the metal tab to slide along that bar and "not" jam your lock anymore. It also does not hinder the locks ability to do so.

I also took each tab and filed it flat on each side. Indeed; I removed a thousand or so of an inch from the tabs, as to further assure they would slide back and forth easily and without binding. I also laid some wet sand paper down on the counter and rubbed the tabs on each side to remove any scoring. I used 800 grit first, then 2000 to smooth it up. And if you don't have a file, the sand paper will work well by it's self.  Just make sure the tabs are quite flat, smooth, and no burs of any kind by the time you're done. Might also consider cutting some sand paper, bending it in half, and cleaning the channels in the drum where they slide into.

After doing each tab, stretch the spring of each "very slightly," as to make them about 1/16 of an inch longer than they were. Carefully! Then, insert it before going to the next tab and make sure it springs back and forth easily. You might want to insert all before doing any refining; in that all tabs and their perspective springs work against the single bar and it's two springs. It's easy enough to see which is "actually" binding once their all in, and then merely remove and repeat the aforementioned steps.

This wee project sounds a bit complicated; however, if not only figured it out on my own, but managed to complete it in about three hours. And yea; my lock was quite screwed! Had to use the vice grips and a pipe wrench to turn it in the accessory direction before I could even get the drum out once I had it out of the car. However, it's sitting on the desk in front of me right now, and it's working like new. Just put a bit of sewing machine oil in it and that was that.

Oh, and if you're considering just buying a new one, keep in mind that most are like mine.  They have transponder keys which must be programmed by the dealer, so merely buying a new lock isn't the end of it. The cheapest I've seen the locks is about forty bucks, and I would guesstimate total cost to be between one hundred and two hundred bucks by the time you're done replacing it; therefore, give it a shot... worked for me.  

I have a 02 Cherokee Laredo. I've had intermittent problems with the key not turning and was always able to jiggle it for a few seconds/minutes and get it to turn forward. Last nite though it seemed to lock and I couldn't get it to turn. This morning I went back to my car and tried tapping the key, turn the steering wheel etc. and it still would not unlock. I took the lower steering column cover off. (1 philips head screw removed underneath and pop the cover off with a flat tip screw driver) Then I disconnected the two modular plugs/cables with the connectors facing the driver closest t0 the bottom of the steering wheel. Apparently these have something to do with the steering wheel lock I guess. Anyway, as soon as I did this, the steering wheel unlocked, the key turned forward and the car started. I reconnected the plugs and the key is turning fine now. Hope this helps.  

any suggestions?  Key won't turn! able finally to get it to turn backwards but it won't turn to the forward position! Tried the tapping and wd40...that's what got it turning backwards but still no go on turning forward  

keep trying      you might  want to remove it at that point..

did you watch the video   or  know about the release pin to push  when its turned to the run position???

this is the release pin on the side of the lock.. that keeps it in the housing...   its on the dorman video....

is that linked above???  

I have a 2000 JGC.  I had the steering column and key lock up on me.  I took of the positive side of the battery for 15 min. In hopes to reset the computer.  That did not work.  I changed out the 40amp fuse from under the hood and the truck started.  It did the same this morning and I had no spare fuse.  I tried the suggestion of hitting the key(not to hard with a screwdriver and it started.  

ignition needs replaced. but you can place the key in the ignition and give it a good hard tap use hammer if needed and key will work. buy you a replacement ignition and keys  from ebay keys and ignition are exspensive at the dealer you need two keys to reprogram your cars computer and that info is available online, its not usually your key that is worn but the materials the ignition is made from, take your key to a key shop along with the kit you get with the ignition and for about 10.00 will set to your key, and stop hanging so much on your chrysler key ring your welcome. note you could take the ignition out and clean it but be carful there are 8 tumblers with springs most are set as twins but one has diferrent sets and all must be set back in proper order and sides if you mess up you are taking your ignition to the lock smith as your key will jam in the ignition and not come back out. or you can take the clips off the sides and try again and you will need silicon to put it back together.  

dealer does not have to reprogram unless you do not have two keys, the two keys do have to be original i do believe,at least two that have been previously used, and this is only for replacement keys not the ignition, this info is available online and you man handled your ignition i did my neighbors and i didnt have to man handle it but i took my time patients the kits are available on ebay and the dealer usually dont charge for cutting key but all paper work and proof of ownership is required