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I've been having the strangest engine problem on my automatic 1996 Honda Accord 4 cylinder (196k miles). I took it to a mechanic and he was baffled as well because the problem refuses to reproduce, but it's rather random.  The last thing I want to happen is for it to shut off in the middle of a busy freeway.  It stopped on a highway and a semi was inches from ramming into me from behind.

The engine randomly shuts off like someone flipped a switch to turn it off (no jerking, just turns off).  Plus the check engine light never comes on.

This has happened in the following places:
1.  While idling in a parking lot a few minutes after startup
2.  After sitting a red light and trying to accelerate and also at initial highway acceleration
3.  While coasting in a parking lot (foot NOT on the gas paddle, just coasting)

When trying to start the car back up after the engine turns off, the car makes the typical startup noise but never starts.  If I let it sit for 1-4 minutes, the car starts fine. The heater and the radio are not affected, they work normally during everything.

I've noticed a few trends of when this happens.  It happens at the beginning of the day when the car is out and about but still kind of cold.  It rarely happens once the car has been out and about for a little while.  This could be coincidence?  Also, having the heater on max at the beginning of the day seems to up the probability of the car engine dying.  Again, coincidence?  Also, perhaps related or not, the car also has a high pitch squeal at startup that seems to go away when the heater/fan is turned off.

I've taken it to a mechanic and he tested the ignition switch, which he said worked properly and was not the problem (60$ later).  I've done some research on the net and have come up with 3 possible problems I think it may be. I'm really really really hoping someone on here can perhaps narrow it down based on these symptoms and give me a direction.  

1.  Ignition coil
2.  Ignition control module
3.  Fuel pump

I was told fuel pumps are super reliable on 96 accords, so I'm thinking it's a problem that lies within the distributor.  

Any fresh ideas out there?  Please?

Grateful,
Jeul  

change the MAIN RELAY......  use a mirror on the floor to the left of the brake pedal... this allows you to see up under the dash board.. you will also need a flash light..   the main relay is hidden up high...  held in place with a 10MM nut.. (the socket size is 10MM)  it usually takes a 12 to 18 inches of extensions to reach up that high.. your model might be lower...  

all hondas have a main relay... i cannot find a listing for your year...

but i bet it has one... your description is exactly what a failed relay does...

why...  there are 2 relays in the main relay housing.. one to turn on the electronic fuel injection.. the other to power the fuel pump...   where they are soldered to the circuit board.. the thermal cycling breaks the solder joint..   if you were to take the circuit board out of the case.. and you know how to solder electronics.. you can resolder the damaged circuit connectors.. you might also want to clean the contacts... but you can only use brake cleaner to spray through the relay frames...  

The main relay is something I haven't considered yet.  My radio and fan stay on.  If it's the main relay, wouldn't that shut off power to the radio and heater fan as well?  Thanks  

nope... the Main relay is actually known as the EFI main relay..   it only controls the power to the ECM, injectors and the fuel pump...   only the stuff you need to make it ***  

i did a search at autozone.com...     for main.....   and a bunch of relays came up.. seems the 2 and 4 door cars use different relays...


which model accord do you have.... EX, LX.. SE...????

which motor...  2.2    2.3   four cylinder or six...

this way i can look up the exact wiring diagram over at autozone.com.. in their free repair info...


here is how the relay is wired... but just remove it .. carefully pull the circuit board out.. examine the solder joints... unless you know how to solder.. or have a friend who does..  just replace it... the contacts can be dirty also... and they are almost impossible to get to.. without unsoldering the circuit board..

copy the links below one at a time...  paste the link into a new window..

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/03/a2/a0/medium/0900c1528003a2a0.gif

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/03/a2/9f/medium/0900c1528003a29f.gif

The PGM-FI Main Relay is actually comprised of two individual internal relays. When the ignition switch is initially turned ON , the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay. This ground triggers one of the PGM-FI internal relays that sends battery voltage to the fuel pump for two seconds to pressurize the fuel system.

When the engine is running the PCM supplies a continuous ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay. The supplied ground keeps the relay in the "closed" position providing electrical current to the fuel pump, keeping the fuel loop pressurized while the engine runs.

If the engine is not running with the ignition ON , the PCM cuts the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, causing the relay to "open" and stop the electric current flow to the fuel pump. As mentioned previously, if the engine is not running, the PCM will only supply ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay for two seconds when the ignition switch is initially switched to the ON position.

The PGM-FI Main Relay also supplies electrical power to the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and to the fuel injectors.  

I second his recommendation to look into the main relay.  Have you ever done electrical work though?  It's not something to take lightly, you can get zapped or worse.  You are probably going to want to get a repair manual that has electrical training or look up some courses on the net which you can probably find for free.  Get at least familiar enough with what your doing so that you know the basic things like how to be safe while you work on the car.  

at that point think of a term immittent problem[that comes and goes] think of the fuel pump consisting of amature and  brushes are subjects to failling. if the relay and fuse at the pannel works okey also check the pump[fuel].consider this spark plugs,coil,fuel works together[fuel pump the driver of fuel of fuel [tank>engine]