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I have a 2004 Suzuki forenza that we bought used privately. It had the check engine light on and the guy at autozone said catalytic converter and coolant temp was off. We drove about an hour away with the car one day just after we got it and when I spead up rapidly to about 60 mph and the oil light came on and my engine started making a kcocking noise and shaking. We were close to my uncles so we pulled in and changed the oil, oil filter, and put some additive in. Car was quiet after. A few days later a accelerated a little and made a left turn and the oil light came back on. I parked at work and when I got off it was gone. It came on when I was normal driving a bit. I took it to Walmart and got it changed again. So 2 oil changed in 1 week. The oil was nasty. So I was thinking the oil screen could be part of the problem. (Have not replaced yet)

We then flushed the radiator once, and changed the sensor. We restarted the the computer to reset the check engine light and it did not come on for about 80 miles of normal operation. The car still vibrates and I can tell it has lost some of its original power. Finally, my girlfriend said she took out the key after driving 5 minutes and the key was really hot as well as the steering column. First thing that came to mind was ignition system. Both the CC and ignition system can cause the car to falter and set off the check engine light. What should be the next step?  

first... i am worried about your oil pressure.... yes... the screens can become clogged...


the other thing..   check engine lights..    when codes are retreived.. it is important to write the exact code number down...

it will point to part of the system that is showing something is not right...     you mentioned.. that the coolant temp was one of the codes..    but just changing the sensor may not solve the problem.. every time....   it could be the thermostat.. the wiring harness to  the sensor.. and a bunch of other things...

each code will go to a page in the factory service manual...  in print or online.. to follow the trouble shooting to verify it is that part...

when some codes are set... the ecm will reduce power... to protect the engine...

there is a trick... when replacing an oil pickup screen...    disable the ignition system so the car won't run.. use 2 quarts of thin oil into the pan.. with the filter off...    i usually use a remote starter button...  have someone crank the motor until you get oil out the filter adaptor...   screw on the new filter... crank the motor some more..  it should not take more than 5 seconds or so of cranking the first time to get oil out of the filter adaptor.. then put in the correct weight of oil and crank it till you get oil pressure. then hook up the ignition system.. and start the motor...     oil pumps don't like to prime against a filter the first time...

you also have to use a scan tool to reset the computer... very few will reset just when the fuse is pulled...


the catalytic converter codes are mis leading.. follow the trouble shooting chart on that.. with a scan tool that displays. live data...


you can also google the codes... but post them.. along with sensor readings...  

Thanks for the reply!

I will do the oil flush soon then.

I came across another problem that may be the cause of some of this. The breather box that sits on top of my air intake is broken! The cylender plastic part that has the ruber sealer that connects to the intake has completely broken off. This means that air is skipping the air filter, a sensor, and the oil part where it mixes together. I went to a few junk yards today and could not find the peice. I can order it for 80 dollars but will check dealer first. As a temporary fix I may buy a pipe that is same size and bond it to the breather and then attach the sealer to that. Only temporary of course. Bah!

So, after leaving the junk yards I went to autozone to get my code read and it came up with CCC deffeciency and low coolent level. He then asked if we have cleared the codes before and I told him i removed the battery cable for a bit and he said that did not actually erase the codes. He recommended to erase it and when the light comes on again to get it read to more easily narrow it down. 60 miles later no light has came on so when it does I will take it in and post the codes.

On a side not I have been trying to find a repair manual for this car but it seems like no one has them. I want to change the oil screen but I have no idea how to get to it on this car. I also want to change the transmission fluid but no idea where to start! All I know is that it is most likely that the fluid has to come from a dealer and that there is no dipstick for my model.  

as for repair manuals... and repair information...

autozone.com.. has some online...  i don't know if they cover your year yet... i know they cover other years and models .. and theautozone site is free

there are 2 sites that provide online professional mechanic type of info..

alldatadiy.com      which is actually owned by autozone.. you can get a subscription kit in their stores...

eautorepair.net...    this is mitchell manuals do it your self web site...

both with have almost the same information.. but sorted differently..   this is just slightly reduced .. and i don't know what got left out from the stuff the shops subscribe to...


this place has had manuals in print...  i did not check for your model...  

http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/home_one.cfm

there are several magazines on this site... that involve mostly asian cars..