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30’ Chrysler Sebring 2.7….I Have replaced 3 water pumps.  The car eats the impellers.  The pumps have the plastic impeller.  The fins are ground down to nothing and the car overheats.  The last pump lasted 50 miles.  HELP!  

there are probably loose pieces of broken impeller floating around inside the motor... that keep getting into the new impeller taking it out and spreading more debris..

are the bearings failing in the water pump....  the timing chain drives the water pump...  is the outer shaft bent/???

is there any possibility that the timing chain is getting over tensioned... and bending the shaft..  breaking the housing.??/


it has been a while since i had a 2.7 apart.. i would think that pulling the front freeze plugs... one might be able to flush out the bits...  but i am not familiar enough with the design of the cooling system ....

i have had to use a shop vacuum with a garden hose filling the block on another car that had debris in the cooling system...

but with your timing cover off and the pan exposed... i just don't know how the tech is going to do it without getting the water into the engine oil...

there were some companies that had metal impeller water pumps for other models that had plastic impellers as OE...  

The impeller is ground down, melted almost.  Not really broken.  Flushed the block, air and water, and nothing comes out.  Bearings in pump are good.  Timing chain is true.  It's like it rubs on something....  Grinds down the impeller???  

there must be something in there...

you do have to understand something.... when the motor is running... the water pump pushes coolant around with a lot of force and volume...

it totally possible that there are a few pieces that are wedged in tight and only get loose when the pump turns at max speed...

find a pump with a steel or cast iron impeller...

remember.. the coolant is pulled into the middle of the pump...  and there is almost no clearance between the block and the pump impeller.. that is how they make them work better...

there are a few articles that say there were problems with casting flash breaking loose from the engine and getting into the oil pan..  

do you have the ability to build something...    a pair of valves that tee into a single pipe with a pipe flange and rubber seal on the end...    one valve hooked to the garden hose...  the other hooked to compressed air...

place the tip of the opening... into the freeze plug hole...(you took it out for this)     fill the block with the water ...  when it starts to overflow.. hold the end tight against the block...  turn in the air ... so the gun you have made will keep the water in the block.. and blow the full block of water and whats left in the pipe out.. with pressure...  


air hose=== lever valve  ===\___________flange with rubber gasket to seal against block
water hose===valve=====/


mechanics have had terrible problems with bits left over from previous damage....   there have been quite a few instances of pistons breaking... scattering parts through the motor....  taking out non damaged cylinders.   then the tech will replace the motor and start it up... only to have a bit of hidden scrap that had gotten trapped in the intake free up and damage the motor again...

it is totally possible that the piece is stuck somewhere that is hard to see... could even be in the radiator....  

I have flushed and blown air through the motor.  I am unable to liberate anything.  The radiator has been changed and I do a thermostat every time just incase.

I can’t get anything to come out of the block.  I have found a Bosh pump with a metal impeller but I am afraid that I am just making a bad situation worse by installing it.

I have never seen anything like this.  My initial thought was that it had to be a piece of the original impeller lodging between the new impeller and the block but nothing comes out of the motor when I pressure flush and blow air.