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Please see link from another forum...thought I'd try here for some help or thoughts



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1989-pontiac-grand-prix-engine-not-running-vt326282.html  

Engine Mechanical problem
1989 Pontiac Grand Prix 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

"I have a 1989 Grand Prix with a 2.8L.It recently quit on me while accelerating out of a parking lot into traffic.Now it won't stay running.Has new fuel pump,is getting spark,checked the TPS,IAC,MAF,ECM,all is good.It gives a MAF code but I tried a different MAF to no avail.It will turn over and start but runs like it is on 2 cylinders and as soon as you give it gas it quits.I am pointing toward timing issue now but I cant find a timing mark on the crank pully so how do I check the timing..any thoughts???? "

what was the actual code number?If you clear the code does  it come back immediately?Does it run any better if you leave the MAF unplugged?  

33,no and no  

checked the crank sensor today..getting .3-.6 volts..according to the manual that is good..

any thoughts??  

anybody have a thought??  

do you have a scan tool... that will plug into the aldl connector under the dash?????

which engine do you have????/  there are 3 different motors with 3 different types of ignition systems...


without the scan tool... you cannot tell whats going on...

the scan tools display more than just codes...   they display sensor data....

just because you have 3 to 5 volts on the sensor.. does not mean that the pair of signals going back to the computer is correct...



it could be mechanical....  like a failed timing chain.....    electrical...   problems with the wiring..  problems with the sensors..   problems with the electric fuel pump.  problems with the ignition module...    problems with the security system built into the ecm that uses a resistor in the key....   does the security system light flash.. when trying to start the car...

the ignition switches have failed...  fuses have blown..    like i said.. these cannot be fixed easily without a scan tool....


autozone.com has a some repair info online...

there is a chart somewhere... that lists what the scan tool data should be on a normal motor... so you can verify what you are seeing is normal...  

did you read the prior post?? It tells you everything your asking and what I have done.
Also check the link in first post for more info. I do not have a scanner and it does not have a security light and here is the link again

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1989-pontiac-grand-prix-engine-not-running-vt326282.html  

sorry.. i missed page two...

orange spark>.....  

change the coil.....   AZ has them just over 20 bucks...


can you pull the coil wire off the cap... see if it will throw a 3/4 inch spark.and it should be a bright blue spark...  i bet it won't ....

it takes a lot of spark to fire up a motor...   must be blue.... and it should really snap...

i have run into this before...   ignition coil secondarys have had the internal insulation break down...  so there is less high voltage put out...


this happens on a lot of cars...  some with coils in the distributers...  gets really hard to diagnose...  the coil will pass a neon light spark test.. but fail a coil output test...   there is even a under 10 buck coil output tester...    many parts stores carry them.. no bulb...   a threaded screw with a clamp on one end...   a plastic housing...with a KV scale on the back side..  and a place to plug on a spark plug or coil wire...  the gap is adjustable...   this is so much better than the neon tester..

sorry i missed your Orange spark problem....  

I took care of the spark issue..needed new plug wires..I also checked all the coils with multimeter and all checked good(one of them I just recently replaced) and took the module to autozone for test.(it was good)

here is what else I have done:
new fuel pump and filter
new plugs
new wires
new TPS
cleand IAC
cleand EGR
tried different ECM
tried different MAP
tested Cranksensor
checked for plugged convertor
tried unhooking all the sensors
checked vac line from fuel pressure reg for gas


about the only thing I have not checked is the fuel rail pressure and injectors..do not have a gauge or noid light..I am assumming with new pump the pressure is good but you never know until you check.. all this has me leaning to jumped time but I don't want to tear into that job until I know for sure  

will the coil throw a 3/4 inch blue spark....

this is a coil output test....  measuring with a digital volt meter on the primary and secondary.. just does not cut it with an output test...

no lights ... no meter...   no guesses....  no looks OK.....   test it for output ... or change it...  or get professional help...

you did also change the distributer rotor..

if you had no spark at all .. i would tell you to try the following....  but you seem to have spark.. but not enough if it is orange..

how is the pick up coil????   did you measure it????    500 to 1,500 ohms...  volt meter set to 2K ohm scale..

before disconnecting... flip the meter over to 20 Volts AC...

crank the motor or spin the shaft... you need to have over 1.0 volt AC or there will not be enough voltage to trigger the power transistor inside the module...  

has electronic ignition,no cap and rotor.three seperate coils.The spark is blue now with new wires