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I am changing the head gasket on a 1996 Dodge Stratus 2.4L due to oil leak problems.  I have the disassembly down to the point where I need to remove the timing belt, but I can't seem to get the alignment marks in the camshaft sprockets to line up in the center.  I have rotated the crankshaft pulley multiple times and they never line up.  After two revolutions of the crankshaft, the rear (exhaust?) mark seems to be in roughly the same position as the front sprocket, almost as if the factory mounted the same sprockets on each camshaft.  It looks like they have identical markings on the sprocket (on one web it says "FRONT 2.4L" and on the other is an arrow and the word "UP").

This is a low mileage car (50000 actual) that has never had any significant work done until now, so it must have come from the factory this way.  It was running fine, I'm only doing the head gasket because it was leaking significant oil.  Has anyone ever seen this kind of situation before?  Do I have to rotate the crankshaft many, many times before they come into alignment? (I have maybe turned it 20 revolutions, all clockwise).  I suppose I can get it into where I believe the correct mark should be and add my own, but I'm nervous enough about getting this right and I don't want to add any additional variables if I don't have to.

Thanks for any help,

Dave  

Pull out the number 1 spark plug. plug the hole with your finger{or the hose from a compression gauge}.Have a friend turn the motor until you feel compression.Then keep turning slowly until piston is at top dead center.You can find TDC by lining up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley or by carefully putting something in the cylinder so you can feel when the piston stops rising.Be careful not to get anything jammed between the piston and head.Go very slowly.At that point the cams should be lined up correctly.



PS:dont put your finger inside the cylinder.It probably wont fit in there but i figured i better mention it.  

Let me guess the exhaust cam sprocket mark is 1/2 tooth below
the intake sprocket mark,when you have the crank TDC. is this right?  

you might want to check out this article

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/3542/rebuilding_the_chrysler_24l.aspx

i have also used a pair of flat washers with a bolt and wing nut  to hold the sprockets in place...  with one washer high.. and the other washer low... snug.. but not tight enough to damage the notches where the cam belt runs...

here is a picture of the cam timing alignment.

looks like the marks line up just slightly above center as you would expect...

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/08/96/f5/medium/0900c152800896f5.gif

here is the tensioner

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/08/96/f4/medium/0900c152800896f4.gif

heres some info

2.0L and 2.4L DOHC Engines


Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the right inner splash shield.

Remove the accessory drive belts.

Remove the crankshaft damper.

Place a floor jack under the engine oil pan, with a block of wood in between, and jack up the engine slightly so that the weight of the engine is no longer on the engine mount bracket.

Remove the upper engine mount and the engine mounting bracket.

Remove the front timing belt cover(s).



WARNING
Do not rotate the crankshaft or the camshafts after the timing belt has been removed. Damage to the valve components may occur. Before removing the timing belt, always align the timing marks.

Align the timing marks of the timing belt sprockets to the timing marks on the rear timing belt cover and oil pump cover. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolts.

Remove the timing belt and the tensioner.





If equipped with a mechanical tensioner, install a 6mm Allen wrench into the belt tensioner, then insert the long end of a 1 / 8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench into the pin hole on the front of the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the 6mm wrench, while pushing in lightly on the 1 / 8 inch or 3mm Allen wrench until it slides into the locking hole.

Remove the camshaft sprockets.

Remove the crankshaft sprocket using special removal tool No. 6793 or equivalent.

If equipped with a hydraulic tensioner, place the tensioner into a soft jawed vise to compress the tensioner. After compressing the tensioner, place a pin (a 5 / 64 in. Allen wrench will work) into the plunger side hole to retain the plunger until installation.


To install:
Using sprocket installation tool No. 6792 or equivalent, press the crankshaft sprocket onto the crankshaft.

Install the camshaft sprockets onto the camshafts. Install and tighten the sprocket retaining bolts to 75 ft. lbs. (101 Nm).


Install the crankshaft sprocket. Set the crankshaft sprocket to Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning the notch on the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing.

Set the camshafts to align the timing marks on the sprockets.

Move the crankshaft to 1 / 2 notch before TDC.

Install the timing belt starting at the crankshaft, then around the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprockets, and then around the tensioner pulley.

Move the crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up the belt slack.

Install the tensioner to the engine block, but do not tighten.

Using a torque wrench on the tensioner pulley apply 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm) of tighten to the tensioner pulley.

With torque being applied to the tensioner pulley, move the tensioner up against the tensioner pulley bracket and tighten the fasteners to 275 inch lbs. (31 Nm).

Remove the tensioner plunger pin. The tension is correct when the plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.

Rotate the crankshaft 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks. Wait several minutes and then recheck that the plunger pin can easily be removed and installed.

Reinstall the front timing belt cover(s).

Reinstall the engine mount bracket.

Reinstall the right engine mount.

Remove the floor jack from under the vehicle.

Install the crankshaft damper and tighten to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).

Install the accessory drive belts and adjust to the proper tension.

Install the right inner splash shield.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Check for leaks and proper engine operation.  

Sorry to take so long to reply.  Yes, indeed that is the case.  It threw me because there is a full mark in the middle of the tooth on both sprockets, but they align 180 degrees apart when at TDC.  There was a wierd looking mark on the exhaust sprocket that was on the bottom of the tooth and it didn't exactly align with the one on the intake.  I ended up putting a dot of paint in the middle of both teeth and using that for my timing reference, and went ahead and got everything out and replaced my head gasket.  It took 3 tries to get them aligned back up when I put the new timing belt on, but I did get them perfect eventually (rotated through multiple revolutions to make sure they still lined up after everything seated together).

I did run across this link sometime later that would have saved me some worry if I had found it when I was inside the timing cover:

http://www.autofixworld.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=379&Itemid=86

Too bad none of the manuals I had (both Chilton and Haynes) as well as AllDataDIY didn't make any reference to this