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I recently rebuilt a dodge 360 engine for a 1988 dodge 4x4. I accidentally torqued the main caps to 110 lbs. instead of the 85 required. I had the crank turned prior to the build, used clevite 77 bearings, and stock comp. ratio. I will use the truck as a daily driver with occasional towing and offroading. are the bearings ok. or should I replace them. I never turned the crank after torquing, and noticed the mistake within a few minutes, backed the caps off to finger tight and retorqued them to 85 lbs.  

i would think that the main bolts are going to be stretched...   not where the threads contacted the block threads.. but where there is exposed threads that did not get into the block..

take out two,..  one each from different main caps...     put them together  threaded end to threaded end. but completely overlapping the threads...  you will see that the threads do not totally fit... as the upper end of each threaded section does not fit as it is trying to mate with unstretched section of the other bolt..


there was a famous picture in hot rod magazine from the late 60's...   of a fiat topolino with a supercharged 392 hemi... the driver in the aluminum fire mask...   you can almost see the look in his eyes...   whats that...  under the motor with some pistons and a bunch of rods still attached is the crankshaft laying on the ground.


you probably have not damaged the bearings... if you had aluminum bearings i would worry..   but the tri metal .. should not really have a problem...  i do take it that you are using stay lube moly graphite assy lube to lube the bearings...


oh... you can change the main cap bolts one at a time.. so you don't have to reset the main bearings and crank...


one more thing...     i take it that you have an adjustable click type torque wrench...   do you leave it at 110 over night or for a few days????   they are usually stored with the adjustment all the way off...  so the spring does not take a set...

if you have an bending beam torque wrench... take your 15MM half in drive 12 point socket and put it on one torque wrench.. and the other will fit in the 12 point side..   see if the click type is close to the beam type at 45 or 50 ft pounds of torque.. then again at 80 ft pounds..  those are 2 that are used a lot...    if you click type is off.. you might want to have it recalibrated..

i went to work at a engine rebuilder many years ago.. each tech had a click type torque wrench...   each one was left every night at what ever the last set it at...   and some were over 25 pounds off at 65 foot pounds..  you don't want to know what happened when i pointed this out...      that place is no longer in business..  they did great motors most of the time...

i brought this subject up to ARP.. they now carry a torque wrench tester on their trailer that follows the NHRA top fuel circuit for the racers to double check their torque wrenches ....  

thanks. I will go and check the bolts tonight. I would much rather replace the bolts than pull the crank and change the bearings. steve.