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While driving car the gauges goes off and the car stall immediately.  Car will not start until gauges come back on. While gauges are off the car starter will turn over the motor, but will not start. First time about 5-10 minutes before gauges are back on and then car starts immediately.  Second time about 15-25 minutes before gauges are back on and then car will start. Third time 40-60 minutes before gauges are back on and then car will start.  Usually stalls in bumper to bumper traffic, while turning or waiting at a light. Never stalls on highway at high speeds. More likely to stall on hotter days. Some days works fine never stalls.  Once car stalls it will usually  stall again in about 20-30 minutes but not always. I usually try to take car home immediately after first stall and park it.  Car has been to about 7 repair shops including Jeep dealership and probably looked at by about 20 mechanics. Engine trouble light always on and trouble codes no help. Seat belt light on and key light on while gauges are off. Many parts replaced with no change. After several mechanics insisted it had to be the computer ... I finally let them replaced it and yes ... no change ... same problem.  Very.frustrated  

there are a bunch of things that could cause this... like things not plugged all the way in and locked..  

here is the first diagram to follow the power...
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/21/fa/f4/large/0900c1528021faf4.gif

here is the ignition switch wiring

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/21/fa/f7/large/0900c1528021faf7.gif

here is the wiring from the positive side of the battery

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/21/fa/f5/large/0900c1528021faf5.gif

here is the negative side of the battery

http://repairguide.autozone.com/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images/0900c152/80/21/f0/52/large/0900c1528021f052.gif


all the grounds need to be checked....

the computer will usually set a code when something fails...   it may not turn on a check engine light... as it may not be an emission problem...

so many things it could be...

the shut down relay is the first place to look...

various efi relays...

the ignition switch...

any alarm systems that may have been installed...  even if removed... they are still in the circuit... sometimes just cut and taped in... no mechanical fasteners on the wires.. undersized wires on the alarm relays...

what codes are you getting...????   those are the best help...

i know there are more codes than this

http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/99-01trk.shtml

post all the codes...    there may be manufacturer specific codes that take more than a generic scan tool to access...

here is one more resource... for a shop that might be able to help solve this.. if you can not do it your self.

http://www.iatn.net/shopfinder/  

I have been having the same exact problem and still no fix! Have you figured it out yet? jgc 1999 4.7  

you might want to check all the electrical connections and even the thermostat.  Sometimes you might have a connection that has some corrosion in it or wiring that is damaged when it gets hot the connections might seperate due to the corrosion. but it really sounds like an electrical issue.  

HELLO, I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY GCL 4.7 USUALLY HAPPENS IN WARMER WEATHER, DID YOU FIND THE CURE. I SURE WOULD LIKE TO KNOW..THANKS PLEASE EMAIL ME AT MC717@YAHOO.COM  WHEN YOU FIND OUT  

very frustrated the first person on this thread  posted it twice..

this was a second answer he got

jippadyak
User | Posts: 80 | Joined: 12/06 Posted: 06/27/09
07:53 AM

it's more likely a communication problem, did you see a message "no bus" on the cluster? when the communication shuts down all systems are shut off thus no start. most probable problem is the connector to the cluster. com wires are 2 wires twisted together. check also the cluster connector some problems are the solder joints.

what this answer was is the solder joints on the instrument panel circuit board are going bad...   i have to remove various electronic items almost every week on various cars... to resolder them..   the solder gets little circular cracks.. this causes intermittent connections..  

I have the same exact problem, but my 99 Jeep shuts off at any speed, any answers?  

it's more likely a communication problem, did you see a message "no bus" on the cluster? when the communication shuts down all systems are shut off thus no start. most probable problem is the connector to the cluster. com wires are 2 wires twisted together. check also the cluster connector some problems are the solder joints.

what this answer was is the solder joints on the instrument panel circuit board are going bad...   i have to remove various electronic items almost every week on various cars... to resolder them..   the solder gets little circular cracks.. this causes intermittent connections..  

this is happening with mine too, for about two months, and have been told to get a new computer, should I?  

Hello,  I read in automotive.com a post that you put up stating that you had a problem with your GC.  Sounds like the same thing that mine is doing.  Mine is a 2000 Grand Cherokee Ltd and for the last couple months it will just shut down while driving for no apparant reason.  When it does, all the guages go dead and all the dash indicator and warning lights come on.  Each time it does not give a code but after letting the car sit for anywhere from 3 minutes to a couple hours it will always start again.

My question is.  Does this sound like what was going on with your car?  Did you ever find out what the problem was?  If you could get back to me, I'd appreciate it.

My email address is: phjensen51@gmail.com  or you could call me at (435) 592-4650

Thanks,

Paul Jensen
(St. George, UT)  

this is the electrical part of the ignition switch...





sudden stalling...   start with this part...    i have had other cars and truck stall...  one just last week....

the contacts got dirty ....

the return spring did not properly return the rotating portion to the center of the run position...   it only returned it to the narrow position between the cranking and the run position...  this might be enough to cause your jeep to stall...  

ignition lock cylinder

Removal & Installation



NOTE
The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.

Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
If equipped with an automatic transmission, place shifter in PARK position.
Rotate key to ON position.
A release tang is located on bottom of key cylinder.
Position a small screwdriver or pin punch into tang access hole on bottom of steering column lower cover.
Push the pin punch up while pulling key cylinder from steering column.




Fig. Ignition cylinder removal and installation for the Cherokee


To install:

The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.
If equipped with an automatic transmission, place the shifter in PARK position.
Position the key cylinder into the steering column as it would normally be in the ON position.
Press the key cylinder into column until it snaps into position.
Check the mechanical operation of switch. Automatic Transmission: Be sure transmission lever is locked in PARK position after key removal. If key is difficult to rotate or is difficult to remove, the shift lever-to-steering column cable may be out of adjustment or defective. Manual Transmission: Be sure key cannot be removed until release lever is operated. If key can be removed, release lever mechanism may be defective. Release lever mechanism is not serviced separately. If repair is necessary, the steering column must be replaced.
Connect the negative cable to the battery.
Check the electrical operation of the switch.


NOTE
The key lock cylinder may be removed without removing the switch assembly, although the original ignition key must be used.

Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Use a plastic trim removal stick to remove switch bezel . Bezel snaps on.
To remove key lock cylinder from housing , rotate key to ON position while pressing on release tab . This tab is located on the right side of the switch assembly.
Pull key lock cylinder from housing for removal.

To install:

Install ignition key into lock cylinder . Rotate key to ON position (retaining tab on side of lock cylinder can now be depressed).
The shaft at end of key lock cylinder aligns with socket within end of housing. To align socket with lock cylinder, ensure socket is in ON position.
Position and align key lock cylinder with grooves in housing.
Slide lock cylinder into housing until release tab sticks through opening at side of housing.
Install bezel.
Connect negative battery cable.

###############################


ignition switch Removal & Installation



NOTE
The ignition key must be in the key lock cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.

Remove the key lock cylinder.
Remove the lower steering column cover screws and remove the cover.
Remove the ignition switch mounting screw. Use a tamper proof Torx® bit to remove the screw.
Using a small screwdriver, push on locking tab and remove the switch from the steering column.
Disconnect the two electrical connectors at rear of the ignition switch.

To install:

The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.
Before installing the ignition switch, rotate the slot in the switch to the ON position.
Connect the two electrical connectors to the rear of the ignition switch. Make sure that the locking tabs are fully seated into the wiring connectors.
Position the switch to the column and install the tamper proof screw. Tighten screw to 26 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
Install the steering column lower shroud.


NOTE
The electrical ignition switch attaches to the rear of the key lock cylinder housing. The SKREEM unit also attaches to the key lock cylinder housing.

Disconnect negative cable from battery.
Use a plastic trim removal stick to remove switch bezel . Bezel snaps on.
Remove silencer pad (two screws).
Remove knee blocker .
Remove two key cylinder housing Torx® screws .
Use a plastic trim removal stick to remove I.P. cluster bezel . Bezel snaps on.
Remove one key cylinder housing Torx® screw .
To prevent binding or kinking cable, carefully lower the key/cylinder/switch/cable/SKREEM assembly . Disconnect two electrical connectors (one at ignition switch and one at SKREEM). To release cable from switch, simultaneously press on tab while-
....pressing on tab.
Remove SKREEM unit from switch housing by removing screw .
Remove ignition switch from switch housing by removing screw and then proceeding to the next step.
Continue to remove ignition switch by simultaneously pressing on two release tabs using two small screwdrivers , while pulling ignition switch from housing .
To remove key lock cylinder from housing , rotate key to ON position while pressing on release tab .
Remove key lock cylinder from housing .

To install:

Install ignition key into lock cylinder. Rotate key to ON position (retaining tab on side of lock cylinder can now be depressed).
The shaft at end of key lock cylinder aligns with socket within end of housing. To align socket with lock cylinder, ensure socket is in ON position.
Position and align key lock cylinder with grooves in housing.
Slide lock cylinder into housing until release tab sticks through opening at side of housing.
Install ignition switch to switch housing until it snaps into the two tabs. Install and tighten screw .
Install SKREEM unit to switch housing and install screw .
Position cable into assembly until tab engages.
Install one key cylinder housing Torx® screw . Do not tighten (finger tight only).
Install two key cylinder housing Torx® screws . Now tighten all three housing mounting screws.
Install knee blocker.
Install silencer pad.
Install both bezel. Snaps on.
Connect negative battery cable.  

Oh wow!  Now you've thrown a whole new idea into the muddle of what it could be.  Something my wife just mentioned is that the radiator has a leak and that the stalling problem started just after the radiator started leaking.  I keep the coolant level full.  I've put off getting the radiator replaced until I get the stalling problem working correctly. Could these be related?  

leaking radiator and stalling...

anything is possible...


do you have a digital volt meter.. or even a test light..????     perhaps... you can slowly move the ignition switch through its motion from the crank position and then see how far is comes back...  while you watch the gauges...  and then again.. while you monitor various voltages after looking at the wiring diagram to see what the wires switch...

usually the ignition switch also controls the  auto shut down relay...  thats also known in other cars as the main relay...

so.. it might be the auto shut down relay.. but when the gauges shut off.. that looks more like the ignition switch... or some other switched device controlled by one of the ignition switch controlled circuits...


there are a few hundred different diagrams..

looking at this diagram... and there are hundreds to choose from... i would probably stick a circuit tester into fuse 18 in the power distribution center and monitor that through the various key cycles...



page 2 of the above diagram,,



page 3.,..



this is for fuse 18...



more at fuse 18  feeds the injectors..



there are so many more pages...  

the RED wire into the ignition switch is power...

check fuse 18.. while you rock the key through the positions...

see if the engine stalls if you rotate the key away from the cranking position slightly...

i did not even see where the gauge power wires are..

it could also be the crank sensor near the flywheel..  it looks at gaps in the flywheel to send timing signals to the ECM... so the ecm knows where the crank shaft is  and how fast its going..  but they usually either totally fail... or fail HOT.. very few fail at start up....  thats kinda like the ignition switch..   but its hard to tell without testing..    and you have to really study the wiring diagrams so you don't go probing the wrong circuit..