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Best oil/additive to reduce oil burning

norm321 norm321
New User | Posts: 37 | Joined: 03/06
Posted: 04/21/09
04:48 PM

Have a 95 Honda Civic(158000 mi)that's burning a lot of oil and would like to reduce consumption. The rings or valve seals are probably the culprit. Black soot is present at the tailpipe. What is the best(most stable, thickest)conventional oil to use??(already using 10w 30 Meijer Brand High Mileage instead of 5w 30). Would like to slow consumption as much as possible. Repair or a compression test is not a option(not willing to spend the money on it). Will not go to synthetic because of the cost and it was already tried(not my idea) and I think it made matters worse(seems to be smoking more now). Also considering some type of additive but I don't want anything that will clog up anything and create more problems. A Marvel Mystery Oil piston/cylinder soak was already tried(twice)to unstick the rings(they may be burnt to the pistons). Any suggestions or recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!!  Confused  

svxSTi svxSTi
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 08/28/09
06:11 PM

Surprised nobody has replied yet. I have been driving cars into the ground for years and I've learned what works. First off, you would burn more oil with synthetic 10w30 because it's too light, but synthetic does help a heavier oil flow at colder temps. I don't know what your climate is like to tell you if you need it though.

The best additives to use together are Restore 4 Cylinder and Lucas Engine Stop Leak with 20w 50 high mileage oil like Valvoline Max Life or Castrol. After you've changed the oil with this mix and you still get down a quart just add a quart of Lucas Engine Oil Stabilizer each time until it stops, up to 60% of your oil capacity. If the Lucas is too expensive then use Valvoline VR1 SAE 60 oil each time until it stops, it's only $3.99/qt at autozone and I just put one in todayWink  

fflitmiko fflitmiko
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 09/09
Posted: 09/14/09
06:03 PM

Putting 20w-50 in puts a lot of strain on your oil pump, so I would start with a 10w-40.  I run that in my Suburban.  Keeps the oil pressure up.  Also, running a high wade oil like that in winter up in the north is hard on your car, so try 10w-40 first and see if that helps.  Jumping to 20w-50 might not be necessary and your engine will thank you when it's cold out.

And try to use a name-brand oil instead of meijer brand.  It might help.  

norm321 norm321
New User | Posts: 37 | Joined: 03/06
Posted: 11/23/10
11:46 PM

Thanks for the reply. I live in Michigan and have been running Penzoil 10w 30 in the winter and 15w 40 Diesel oil in the summer months. I really don't dare to try anything heavier since the recommended weight is 5w 30 for the engine. The oil gets really dirty
so I have tried CD2 oil detergent a couple of times but the oil continues to get dirty so I don't know what that means.  

debbiela debbiela
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 12/10
Posted: 12/14/10
08:20 PM

I had a oil problem much like yours,I tried a number of products to reduce excessive oil burning and black smoke, nothing seemed to help. Then a close friend suggested an engine oil treatment, called Poly Gold. I purchased it online because it isn't available in stores. I followed the simple instructions on the bottle and WoW it really worked. It reduced the amount of black smoke, made the car run better and I now get more miles per gallon, that was an unexpected benefit. Give it a try it may solve your problems too.  

norm321 norm321
New User | Posts: 37 | Joined: 03/06
Posted: 02/05/11
09:47 PM

Thanks debbiela,

I'll check into Poly Gold because I'm still fighting the issue.
Just using the car around town mainly so the oil consumption is
manageable. Highway driving at higher RPMs is when it is the worst.

Thanks again!  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4545 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 02/05/11
10:37 PM

age old problem... stuck rings...

try a HALF PINT of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case... with the engine oil.....  this has worked for decades...

it will sometimes loosen the stuck oil control and second compression rings..

it will not fix black smoke from the exhaust.. thats usually a fuel control problem... where the injectors are spraying to much fuel ...  or the fuel pressure regulator is leaking...

if you have bluish smoke...   thats motor oil being burned.. or too much fuel injector cleaner...    i ran across one car that smoked so bad it was like a concrete block wall...   it had 5 bottles of fuel injector cleaner in the 3 or 4 gallons of gas... no wonder...

changing the PCV valve..    verifying the hose attached to the PCV valve is NOT clogged ... when you unplug the hose from the PCV valve.. the engine should DIE if it is at idle.. try to use a factory brand PCV if you have problems..

one engine came into the engine rebuilding shop i worked at 4 times...  for excessive oil burning.. 400 miles per quart...   after 4 rebuilds.. 3 of them for free... the whole truck rolled in.. the only part that was not changed was the PCV... it was changed just before the engine started burning oil...  that 8 buck part cost thousands of dollars as it was the wrong size inside...  too large an internal opening..   a factory PCV fixed the problem..

most engines since 1988 or so.. have lower and lower tension oil control rings...  thinner and thinner rings to reduce friction as the pistons go up and down...

overheating can collapse the thin pistons also.. can cause the rings to wedge into the ring grooves..

the valve seals can be the problem also..  but hondas have a breather / oil vapor separator that can clog...  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4545 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 02/05/11
10:45 PM

oh...  Marvel Mystery Oil is not a thickener... its thin.. very much like ATF.. but without the ROSIN like ATF has...  rosin is what gymnasts use on their hands to grip...

ATF uses it in the fluid to allow the clutches to grab...

different atf blends have different amounts of this... and you really don't want to put ATF into a engine..

but Marvel Mystery Oil has worked for about 80 years..

if the busses that were converted to methanol a few years back had a tiny percentage of marvel or some other lube.. they would not have worn out the converted diesel engines in 50,000 miles..  that normally run between 500K and a million miles between rebuilds..

i am not trying to sell marvel...  

the question was ask if there was a product that loosened the rings... this is all there it that i know has a chance of working..
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 05/18
Posted: 05/18/18
05:02 AM

Now i dont know the exact science behind this, but simply put, if your car is in average or above condition, you dont need any additives, good oil will be all you need. Now youll find that the main purpose of these “stop smoke, smoothing and noise suppressing” type additives is just to thicken the oil. So if you are using additives and you *think* your car is running better, you are better off buying a slightly thicker oil, and a good brand at that. Castrol “edge”q, Penrite(Australian made) and Royal purple have always been my choices, I drive a 1992 nissan 180sx with a 2.0 DOHC turbocharged engine, so i am very pedantic on which oils i use.

If you do your own oil servicing, its always a good idea to use flushes every few oil changes, and even better to buy a cheap synthetic oil amd an extra oil filter to help flush the system in this manner:

Run the engine to operating temp

Add oil flush liquid (basically high in detergents and it thins the oil)

Run the car for 5–10 mins or as per the oil flush directions

Drain oil

Replace filter (optional)

Fill the car with the cheaper oil

Run for 10 mins or even go for a short drive

Drain oil again (purpose of this is to further dilute the old oil and oil flush chemicals) change the filter again.

Fill with your high quality oil.

This is a regime i will use especially if in the last 5000km i have been driving hard, some will say it is overboard, but I am more contempt and happy that I know I am doing the best I can to clean my engines oil galleries etc as much as I can. Now again you do not have to do this often, even once a year or every 6 months..

If you are serious about the upkeep of your oil, do not forget your coolant, keeping an eye on the colour of your coolant is a good thing also, i will flush my cooling system every ~12 months with a hose and new coolant.

I have probably missed out some little details but thats basically it.

Hope this has given you some insight on some good ways to really go the extra mile in caring for your car!  

Just Try It1 Just Try It1
Moderator | Posts: 2796 | Joined: 08/14
Posted: 05/18/18
08:30 AM


the only thing i would warn people about using engine flush.. with sludge in their motors..

don't drive the car..  or keep it under 20 miles an hour.

i would also give the engine one second engine speed increases.. then back to idle.. so you sling some of the oil off the crank and cam but not enough to starve the engine of oil pressure..

the engine flush can wash the sludge down into the bottom of the oil pan and completely cover the oil pump pickup screen in sludge removing the pumps ability to pull oil up thru it..  

this kills so many engines that have just used engine flush.. the engine really needs to run at least 30 minutes with flush in it..  if the engine has sludge in it..

i would probably want to change the oil again.. and then add flush a second time to the clean oil.. again half an hour.. of idle and 1 second medium blasts of throttle.  

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