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Hello all,

I have a quick question that hopefully someone can guide me in the right direction.  I have a 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4WD V6 that doesn't seem to start.  When I turn the key their is ample amount of juice (cranking) but the vehicle will not start.  I changed the distributor cap and electrical cylinder inside with no luck.  One thing I did notice was that when I turn the key to the power position (not cracking the engine but able to listen to the radio) my tachometer (RPM's) is at a constant 2000 RPM's???  Does anybody have any suggestions?

Donny  

hopefully you have not disconnected the battery....       get a pencil and paper.. to write down the codes from the check engine light...

turn the key all the way on.. then off then on then off then on...   not enough to crank it ... but to the run postion... this has to be done within 10 seconds..    the check engine light will then start flashing...  like morris code...     2 digit codes...   probably starting with a 12...     on, off,  on , on...   when it reaches the last code... it will be 5 flashes then 5 more...  this will give you the trouble codes..   you can do this again and again... till you write down the codes properly...

i take it that when you changed the cap and the plastic piece inside (the ignition rotor)  that you did not unscrew the hold down screws on the cam sensor shutter under the rotor...     take a look at the sides ... make sure that it did not hit the cam sensor hall effect unit..   also check for wear in the distributer shaft .. see if it moves around too much...  the 4.0s had that problem...

there is a crank sensor on that picks up signal from the rotating flywheel that tells the computer when to fire the coil...
it is possible ... that the crank sensor is going bad.. or the engine control module...  the shut down relay should also be changed...

see if you get any spark from the coil wire... i have had several put out a weak spark.. which is not enough to properly light the fuel mixture in the cylinders..    remember... the spark has to jump 2 gaps...  one between the end of the rotor.. the other at the spark plug...  so a weak spark do to the coil winding insulation coating breaking down inside the coil may pass a neon light type spark tester... but fail  when really tested to jump a gap type coil tester... they are available at many autoparts stores for under 10 bucks..  look for the one with the threaded bolt with a ground clip welded to the top..

make sure its not your aftermarket car alarm stopping the engine from running... that happens a lot...

see if you can get codes first...  post what codes you find...  

Had same problem and i changed the distributor.  
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John R. seeking for the best maintenance help on Toyota Corolla cars..