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1992 Buick Regal Starting Issues

nyrnyr1994 nyrnyr1994
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 01/06
Posted: 01/15/06
12:10 AM

V6 3.8L Regal Custom
approx 190K miles

Had an issue that came up recently. Sometimes the car will start without a problem, I would drive it for a short time, then the engine would just shut off. Power level is fine, not losing electricity. This would happen either when idle or while driving. Once it stalls, it takes a while for it to start again. The engine is turning, but it just will not kick in.

Recently replaced the starter (09/2005), radiator (09/2005), spark plugs(01/2006), ignition wire(01/2006), fuel relay(01/2006). The alternator was replaced with a brand new one in 2001.

doratheexplorer doratheexplorer
User | Posts: 235 | Joined: 12/05
Posted: 01/16/06
12:18 PM

Without an engine light, I would replace the fuel filter and PCV valve and set aside some money for a fuel pump replacement.  

badcarma badcarma
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 06/06
Posted: 06/25/06
04:16 PM

I have stalling issues with my Regal sedan as well.  Thinking it was fuel related, we've had the fuel injection system cleaned twice, changed all fluids, and have just now replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter.  it still won't start up for about a half hour in the mornings, then will stall out while driving. It has cut out while on the freeway at 60-70 mph, then will "miraculously" cut back in and take off like nothing happened.  

This time with the fuel pump, I went to get it from the shop, only to discover that they were having problems starting it and keeping it running.  They can't figure out what it is either.  

bond2u bond2u
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 07/06
Posted: 07/23/06
09:16 AM

I had this type of issue two years ago with my 1992 Buick Regal (4 door Sdn, 3.8L 6cyl).  I changed out a flat unit that the spark plugs go into (coil?) located at the front of the engine.  Worked fine...although I just found a leaking/cracked vaccum line, fixed it and now it's stalling out at idle (only after coming to a stop at a light or some other extremely inconvenient place).  Anyway that unit cost me around $100. and it was simple to install.  I still love the car, very few problems "out of ordinary" for this model...the usual quick wearing down of the front brakes, motor mounts (upper) worn out, and the fantastic paint job - peeling away (oh, also, I had the worst time putting in an aftermarket cd player...hahahaha).  Good luck!  Oh, the words of my brother (the 35 year mechanic) stick in my head..."you need three basic things for an engine to run (1) fuel, (2) spark, (3) compression.  AND YOU ALWAYS FIX THE LEAST EXPENSIVE OBVIOUS THING FIRST IF IT APPEARS THAT THEY MAY NOT BE WORKING.  

bond2u bond2u
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 07/06
Posted: 09/15/06
06:15 AM

Well, the flat unit I referred to (above) was the ignition coil...that was 2 years ago.  Last week, my 1992 Buick Regal 3.1 6cyl (NOT a 3.8 like I said previously) died while driving.  I was idling in a drive-through, and I thought that I smelled it getting a little hot.  I left the drive-through and while driving the engine sputtered a bit, then died.  I checked all the wiring connections around the ignition coil again, let it cool down, it started, backed up, then died again.  I purchased another ignition coil AND the three coil packs, still wouldn't start.  I KNOW it's getting fuel (fuel pump sounds off, and it IS pumping fuel to the "rail" located on top of the engine indicated by unscrewing the cap (with engine off) and pressing the valve stem - gas spurts out for a moment - then depressurizes).  Killed the battery trying to restart the engine.  There IS electricity from the battery to the ignition coil.  There IS spark from the plugs (tested by removing the spark plugs from engine and leaving them connected to the plug wires and cranking).  Hummmm, with all these electronic systems, I'm going to keep looking into why this car stalls after getting hot, is it a sensor elsewhere?  I'll find out and return here to post something later.  

kebz kebz
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 11/24/06
12:07 PM

i have the same problem with my 1991 buick park ave 3800
it starts fine runs fine but when it comes time to turn on anything in the vehicle while in motion it stalls out. ive replaced the starter, spark plugs, and all fluids. any suggestions? maybe alternator is bad? i dunno. its a strong motor and i dont wanna give up this car yet, allready poured enuff money into it.  

bond2u bond2u
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 07/06
Posted: 02/17/07
01:13 PM

Well after all the problems that I've listed earlier...again my vehicle just "stalled"/cut off while I was driving.  After three days under the hood tracking wires, it turned out that there are THREE plug-ins going to the "flat thing" under the coil packs. One of the plug-ins (the one to the right of the unit (facing the engine) had bare wires exposed and I guess they were contacting each other (shorting out) which caused the car to "die".  Anyway, that was fixed and the car is not stalling at all (sounds like it won't either).  So a lesson learned - to check the wiring on the older vehicles because they seem to get weak at the point they go into the connector ends.

Of course immediately after that was fixed (same moment), my LOW COOLANT light is now on (and won't go off) and the engine (or transmission) is vibrating when I am "cruising" down the highway at a steady speed.  When I accellerate the problem goes away...or if I slightly press on the brakes it goes away.  Doesn't feel like it's coming from the brakes at all.  

bond2u bond2u
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 07/06
Posted: 06/23/07
11:22 AM

Following up my previous posts.  The vibration was TOTALLY caused by my spark plugs.  Replaced them and all is smooth now.  Car has NOT STALLED since I fixed those wires either!  The coolant light still comes on every once in a while, but not as frequently...perhaps the thermostat needs to be replaced.  Next, the motor mounts!  I changed the uppers, now to the bottom. Cool  

Indygirl Indygirl
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 04/08
Posted: 04/16/08
10:14 AM

I am having the same trouble with the '92 Regal I just bought my son. Not sure how the guy sold us this car without it dying on us, but not 2 days later, it started stalling out at lights, or when trying to cross huges lanes of traffic (so dangerous). Our mechanic changed the wires and spark plugs and said it's running like new. I drive it home and got stuck in a busy intersection and bring it back to the mechanic. He can't find anything wrong with it, unless there's water in the gas tank. So, what do I need to fix the car? Have someone check the vacuum line to see if it's cracked??? I'd appreciate any help!!! I just paid almost $3k for this car as it looked in mint condition with under 95k miles on it. My son would love to keep this car!  

Kdd89 Kdd89
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 05/08
Posted: 05/04/08
09:03 AM

This is very common on the 3800 motors. The crank shaft position sensor goes out right around your mileage. It's a 30 dollar part and an hour or so of labor.  

Chev_1234 Chev_1234
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 06/16/08
10:48 AM

I know this is a bit off the topic but I was wondering if anyone could help me with the problem I have with my 92' Buick. My transmission slips into neutral whenever I come to a stop. It will violently jerk back into drive if I hold down the accelerator for a few seconds, but most of the time I just manually shift to Neutral, and then into Drive. The transmission fluid is full so I know that is not the problem, I have also dropped the pan and changed the filter but other than making it shift a lot smother that did not solve the problem.



kristybb kristybb
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 07/08
Posted: 07/15/08
12:00 PM

You probably need new mass air flow sensor you can get a used one for $30. if your fuel consumption has increased then that is most definately the problem.  

roorah roorah
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 03/09
Posted: 03/05/09
06:31 AM

The harmonic balancer needs to be pulled in order to change the crank sensor on the 3800. GM designed a special balancer for the 3800 that requires three 3" long 1/4 fine thread bolts to thread into the pulley to allow a standard puller to be used. If someone wants to pay the 35-40 dollars, several tool vendors offer a kit with these bolts (nice stepped-down shoulders on the real thing) and a shaft extension (I used a deep socket instead), the Lisle part number is 45350. I found the whole sensor and bracket design rather "curious"....  

frontierdave frontierdave
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 09/09
Posted: 09/07/09
03:54 PM

What you describe sounds exactly like the problem we had on our 1992 Buick Regal. It was fixed by putting in a new crank sensor. Something like a $40 part. Good luck!  

Buick92regal Buick92regal
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 01/10
Posted: 01/20/10
02:02 AM

Hi, I have a buick regal 92 3.8L 104000km.  It consumes 20L/100km , plus I'm having same stalling problems at lights or stops. But only on Overdrive, Drive is fine. No check engine light and fuel pump is pumping(sound). Car starts every time, ( longer in winter And my door handle can't open the door but I can from inside).  I've putted lot of $ in this car, even have another for spare parts. Changed spark plugs+ wires, alternator, new battery, fuel filter, oil change every 3500km, flushed coolant, all brakes discs and pad , rear calipers, rear struds, tinted windows, and a well worth installed cd radio( so long to install ), capacitor for 1200w sub.  Please I've made someone check the vaccum lines and seemed fine . I need to know what is problem. Pcv valve? Mass air flow sensor? Crank shaft position sensor? ignition coil? I already thanks any reply  

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