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After failure of both front window regulators in my 2004, I went to the dealer and bought the drivers side replacement for $240.00. Having done bodywork for 20 years I installed the regulator myself. After the installation I tore the old one apart and found the problem is a plastic piece that holds the cable end in place. The only option from jeep was a complete replacement. Owning my own machine shop I machined out a stainless steel retainer to enclose the broken plastic part and hold the cable end. Attaching to the old part with two 1/8"pop rivets this regulator can not fail. A simple solution that Jeep could offer but then they wouldn't make all the money on replacement parts. Any interest from the do-it yourselfer we have the retainers available rammeyers@comcast.net.      

See E-bay item 330205343765 !!  

After replacing the front passenger side window regulator of my daughters 2001 Jeep Cherokee, she then had both rear window regulators go out and on my other daughters 2003 Jeep Liberty she had one rear window regulator go out. After I had the first one fixed, I had the other three blocked up until I could decide what I wanted to do. Then I found the following website: http://www.josh-n-lisa.com/2006/08/29/howto-change-a-jeep-power-window-regulator/ .

So I taped the windows up and took the three regulators out. I begin thinking of ways to repair. I went to Home Depot and purchased cotter pins (3/32 x 3/4 inch). For the Jeep Cherokee, I run a cotter pin around the cable and through the hole of the plastic nylon piece that had broke and secured it on the backside. I went ahead and put a cotter pin in the one that was not broke so I would not have to do it again in the future and just to  provide a better secure fit, I put some marine epoxy in the holes to fill eliminate the wobble. Put it all back together and BINGO FIXED! Works like a charm.

For the Jeep Liberty, the regulator is completely different. But I used the same technique to repair it. I drilled a small hole “3/32) through the plastic anchor being careful not to pierce the side that slides on the tracking bar. Then I placed the cotter pin around the cable and sunk it between the spring that covers the cable to provide the clearance I needed so the tracking would slide freely and secured it on the back side. ONCE again BINGO FIXED!

Thanks to the referenced website. It got me to thinking and considering ways to repair them rather than replace them. You cannot just get the piece that is broke, you have to purchase the complete unit.  It took very little time and effort to repair. Cost: 70 cents for a bag of cotter pins and 5 dollars for the epoxy.
 

I was able to do the same.  Yor post inspired me to repair it myself.  Thanks for the tip.