Automotive Forums

I recently went to my parking garage and found my battery dead in my car. I had it towed by AAA and was told my alternator was shot. I replaced the alternator and battery. When i went to pick up my car and got to the corner, it stalled out. i quickly put into park, restarted and it drove fine. i foudn that whenever idles in drive (its a Mitsubishi Diamante) (and an automatic) and i am stoppedi am finding, the car stalled out. i brought it back to the mechanic and he looked at it today. Now when i picked it up the idle issue is gone however i noticed that the idle was adjusted and it just runs at a higher rpm. Now  that the transmission feels like it slips when i slow down to almost a stop (slips from second to first - as if the engine is running at to many rpms and has to drop to first). I dont have any issue with car shifting upward in grears. Just before i pulled into the garage my Check Engine light just went out. i am going to bring the car back to the mechanic but i dont really trust everything they are saying. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?

THe car is a 1997 Mitsubishi Diamante with 87,000 miles. Thanks

reading formums i saw that it could be the IAC, (Idle Air Control valve) possibly.....

another issue i have had for sometime is spongy brakes. Coulld these issues be related? loss of vacuum suction in car? bad alternator put into car? fan belt too tight restricting engine?  

Anytime you disconnect the battery on your car you need to let the vehicle warm up and then idle for 10 min to relearn idle. To reset the sas adjustment back of the sas then once touching the lever turn an additional 1.25 turns. If that doesn't work you will need a scan tool and the procedure is more extensive.  

yea i brought it to another mechanic and they said they same thing abotu the idle...given time...it would have reset and the guy should never have turned it up. so I turned it down and it works great! the other problem i had wiht spongey brakes....i would to be that jiffy lube put antifreze in my hydrolic fluid compartment and put brake fluid in my antifreeze compartment....this is a disaster! I was told that i need to replace the master cylinder because the antifreeze ate away at a lot of the gaskets in the cylinder and there wasnt good pressure being held (or suction) and that was causing the brakes to be bad, although my bad and rotars were great. stil have not even takeled the other isse with the brake fluid in the cooling system. any recommndations. most likely will dump the car after all this is fixed..... feel like once something like this happends. a lot more bad stuff will happen as a result. car was in great shape but now...who knows.... got it free so i look at it like i put $600 into it for the alternator and battery (NYC prices suck) and put $1000 in for the matstercylinder, fluid flushes, and an oil changed. So i am into the car for $1600 and got it free so when i sell it probably will get all this money back....just not that way i envisioned it with this car.