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Hello, I've a 1996 Grand Prix, 218,000 miles. Need to know if anyone else experienced this problem with their Grand Prix! I'm hearing a noise at rear of vehicle. Seems like noise is coming from left rear strut area. I'm hearing noise when driving, especially while driving over bumps in road and while driving over speed bumps and while driving in and out of driveway (driveway sits a few inches higher than street). The noise sounds as if something is loose as if exhaust pipe is hitting the body of vehicle. I checked the exhaust system components (pipes/mufflers) and they seemed to be tight. I did noticed that my bumper is a little loose but I don't think it's the problem. I also heard the noise while pushing up and down on the left rear of vehicle. There was a noise coming from strut area but not as loud aggravating as noise heard while driving. The struts have never been changed for I purchased vehicle when it had 19K miles. I basically need advice on what is the best way to ensure that struts are bad, should both rear struts be replaced at the same time and is there any special tool needed to replace struts on a 1996 Grand Prix. The local shops (MIDAS, BIG O, PEP BOYS, etc) are asking for $230+ to replace struts.
I can't imagine wha it would cost a dealer ship. I would appreciate any advice you can provide which will have save a buck or two.

Note! Is anyone familiar with a tool referred to as "J 35778?" It's use to compress the Rear Leaf Spring (Also known as Transverse Spring per Auto Zone Repair Guide Info, see http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/dd/97/0900823d800edd97/repairInfoPages.htm for reference.  I can't find this tool at Auto Zone or anywhere. Is there another tool that can be use to compress or remove this Spring? My understanding is that this spring need to be compressed before removing any rear suspension components, i.e. struts, knuckle, etc.

I noticed that the bushing on the left side of the rear leaf spring has dry rotted. Suppose the noise I"m hearing may be coming from this area! Thanks  

I have the exact same problem with my 96 grand prix. Did you ever find out anything?  

You can bounce the vehicle to check your rebound and compression or see oil from a leaking shaft seal. Noise can be worn out internal parts of the strut/shock or strut/shock mounts to the body. If you remove the strut assembly you will need a spring compressor to disassemble the unit. Then you can actually see if the strut has any compressed gas. The shock is oil filled and gas compressed. The gas keeps the oil from foaming at high temperatures and losing coil and rebound performance. When replacing shocks or struts you should pump the new units a few times to circulate the oil. You will need to realign the vehicle after replacing struts.  

Hello

Even I'm experiencing some noise from the right rear end of Toyota Camry 99 car. The Midas and PepBoys are saying the noise is because of worn-out struts. I'm not sure whether it's because of that. They are quoting some 450$ price for replacing struts (2 for rear) . Do you guys have any idea if I can go ahead with this or have some other suggestions before I get it replaced?

Thanks.  

This one is easy. Replace your struts. Strut manufacturers say struts are good for 50K. But 80-100K is more like it. Yours are WAYYYYYYY past due. The bounce test is not accurate for struts. It only works for shocks. The leaf spring compressor tool you're talking about is a very expensive tool used to compress the composite rear spring. Can't do the job safely without it. Plus, GM added some helper springs and those need a special compressor tool as well. This is definately a job for a shop. But stay away from any shop that sells no-name struts. Most of those struts are made by the big name brand companies, but they are economy versions. Sure, they have a lifetime warranty, but it doesn't cover labor. Just as an FYI, struts are not just a comfort issue. Worn struts increase your stopping distance. You are driving a dangerous car right now. Here's an in-depth unbiased article about struts and shocks. I'm not affiliated with any strut manufacturers. http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/05/shocks-and-struts-what-they-do-when-to.html  
I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/

Thanks with that budd...I was about to post similar problem when I red about your post...Anyway, let me share an update about my car...
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The 9-7X is built on the shorter of the two wheelbases used for the GMT 360 platform, which is the one we prefer. It rides lower and the chassis is a bit stiffer than the other GM models, and comes with a retuned suspension and bigger brakes.
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A superb inline six-cylinder engine comes standard. A more powerful V8 is optional. Saab says major competitors will include the Volvo XC90 and the Jeep Grand Cherokee, both excellent SUVs. We suspect Saab's new truck will also compete with GM's in-house brands.  

Checking the strut rebound and compression works good on struts especially when checking for noise. Yes the strut can be completely shot and not bounce like a shock but that doesn't eliminate it as a tool to find problems.  

if you have 2 full days u can dedicate to the car u can do the rear suspension yourself.  the leaf spring compresser tool may be useful but i did the job w/o it.  just get urself two standard car jacks. jack the car so the frame is about 10 inches off the ground. pop the wheels and braking system off the rear of the car, unbolt the brackets for the rear mufflers and un hook all the rubber gromets that hold the muffler pipe to the under side of the car, and rotate the exhaust down so the rear is touching the ground (there is enough play in the header to downpipe gasket to not need to detatch the front from the header.  break loose the fasteners that connect teh struts to the knuckle and frame (BUT DO NOT REMOVE fasetners yet (just losen them like one turn (mine were rusted up real bad), if you remove them all the way u will get hurt as the spring is under compression still) now put a jack under each knuckle and jack the knuckles up a couple inches (so the car weight is still supported by the jack stands under the frame but the spring compession is held by the jacks and not the struts) now unbolt the top of the strut from the frame.  slowly lower your jacks and unbolt bottom of the struts from the knuckles, swamp bumpers and mounting as necessary to new struts and bolt up new struts to knuckle,  raise jacks back up and bolt strut to the frame.  tighten fasteners, drop down jacks and check that the spring is seated in the knuckle properly still.  torque all fasteners, raise exhaust back up and reattached brake calipers/rotors etc and wheels.  exhaust may not be necessary to drop but in my case i needed to because i needed some clearance as i had to swap out my worn composite spring.  

one other thing i forgot to mention - pick up a haynes of chilton manual...they detail the above procedure much better and have pictures and list the torque specs for each bolt.