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I got the maf sensor replaced by my mechanic and the check engine light still came on. You must take it to Nissan and have them reprogram the ecm for the computer to recognize the updated maf sensor.  

hey man i kinda went through the same thing last week...one thing have you had your altinator checked or anything like that???  

hey man i kinda went through the same thing last week.one thing have you had your altinator checked or anything like that?  

For folks who replaced the MAF without a check engine light to fix/cure the bad pinging, did you have to go to the dealer to have the ECU reflashed?  

Thanks for taking the time to post. For anyone who replaced the MAF: After you replaced the MAF, but before you reprogramed the ECM, did you car still display symptoms or did it idle and drive fine and the service engine soon light just stayed on until reprogrammed?

I replaced the MAF but it still won't idel and service engine soon light is still on with the same codes (bad MAF and idel air control valve.

Thanks!  

I to am having similar symptoms.  2000 I30t with 130k.  I think problems started at around 115 to 120k; erratic shifting, hits wall at 3500, pinging - even with good gas.  I came across this article that may help http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1164  (open the pdf to view the photos and chart)

After all of the research I have done, I am banking on the MAF as most of the rest.  My plan is to attempt to clean it first and if it does not fix, I will replace.  Someone reported a $130 dollar OEM replacement from a dealer.  Any idea which dealership that was?  I have purchased coils from Pinnacle Nissan/Infinity (Scottsdale, AZ) http://www.pinnaclenissan.com/ in the past for a 98 Maxima at around $85.  I guess I will try them first.  I gotta say, except for this problem, I love this car.  I will report results when available.  

Update:  Called Pinnacle Infinity today.  New MAF - only $79.00.  Should arrive in the next couple of days.  Sounds as if Nissan/Infinity are trying to make good on a known issue after all this time (bummer for those that have spent up to $400+, might be worth a "letter of consideration" if you still have a receipt).  Parts guy said it is necessary to flash the ECU.  More to follow.  

Amazing!  New MAF and the car runs like new.  No hesitation, no erratic shifting, no wall at 3500 rpm, no SES light.  Still need to get the ECU flashed, not sure what the local dealer in Hilton Head will charge yet, but at least I now know the MAF was at fault for everything.  Two things I would suggest is to wipe clean the inside of the airbox on the downstream side of the filter and clean the throttle body with carb cleaner (easy to do if you pull the accordion tube that connects to it).  

I have the same problem with my auto 2001 GLE. After 4000rpms the car has zero extra pick up. It's strange. At first I thought it was a tranmission issus, but after reading all this I'm convincec that it is the MAF sensor. The thing is, there are no service lights on. If the sensor is bad wouldn't a light come on?

Thanks  

Correct me if I'm wrong but I though all that had to be done to reflash the computer was to disconnect the battery for a half hour and make sure you tap the brake (while the battery is unplugged) to drain the juice from the computer.  I see no reason to take it to the dealer... the MAF sensor is not a computer it is exactly what it's name implies, a "sensor".  If the computer is cleared when the new MAF is installed it should be able to relearn and adjust to the new MAF after a couple full cycles of driving.  It would be different if it had to be calibrated.  I've just seen it done this way before without any problems and was wondering if I'm missing something.  I've never been a big fan of dealers.

On another note... I was leaning towards this being the problem with my 00 only the only problem I have is a hiccup at 3500 and a loss of power above that.  It still accelerates above 3500 but no where close to what it should, starts and idles fine, and drives smooth until you hit that mark.  However, when I first start the car and begin to drive, it doesn't accelerate very quicky (still smooth) until I drive it for a few blocks and then it's fine.  I'm leaning towards the MAF... however I have no codes.  Seems like you can pick these up cheaper than most cars.  Anyone have any thoughts before I waste $115 bucks?  Does this car have a MAP sensor as well?  My other thoughts were the TPS, which seems very unlikely to me or the fuel pump, which could be true given the high milage of the car.

-Nick  

UPDATE:  Just installed the new MAF in my 2000 maxima and the car has new life.  No more hiccup at 3500rpm, car pulls stronger than ever up to redline, starts easier and shifts smoother.  Now for the most important part... THERE IS NO NEED TO TAKE YOUR CAR TO THE DEALER TO REPROGRAM THE ECU!!!  Simply unplug the battery ( I did + and - just to be safe), tap the brakes and let sit for 30 minutes.  The most efficient thing to do would be to install the MAF while this is taking place.  After 30 min or more, when the new MAF is installed, simply reconnect the battery and fire it up.  I noticed an instant improvement just by how nicely the vehicle started.  Let the car warm up and go for a spin.  Good luck to all and if you have any questions just post.

-Nick  

Nick is correct. Do not bother reprograming the ECM, just do what is explained above and you will be fine. Saved a ton of money by doing it myself, I suggest you do the same.

Thanks!!

Colin  

hey to everyone im new here. i have a 2000 nissan maxima with 131000 miles and its giving me trouble fixing it. the Dealers can't find a solution or any mechanic. when i turn the car on the rpms just go up to 3000 the go back down to 1500 then do the same routine just keep revving itself nonstop from 1500 to 3000 and so on. i replaced the crankshaft position sensor, the camshaft position sensor, the mass airflow sensor and a local mechanic cleaned IACV and the car is still the same, no changes.also i had the ECU Replaced. i have taken it to autozone to run the obd scanner and the codes are P0100, P1320 and another code which was for the Camshaft sensor. if some one could help me i would appreciate it. thank you my email is  yosmel8788@yahoo.com  

Regarding the MAF sensor malfunction causing lack of power beyond 3500 RPM ...
Has anyone tried a remanufactured MAF ... they are $115 vs $380 for the new one?

Also does anyone know what happens if you don't have the ECM reprogrammed at the dealer?  

Thanks all for the great advice! I to have a 2000 Maxima. I recently had an oil change and had my K&N air filter cleaned and "recharged" with oil. Immediately leaving the oil change facility the engine would bog down at 3500 rpm. Luckily I wandered upon this helpful forum. I figured I would replace the MAF sensor myself & save $300+. Well I then researched MAF sensors a bit more and found many people cleaning them instead of replacing them. They sell MAF sensor cleaner at the auto parts store. I unhooked the battery, dismanteled the filter box and took off the MAF housing. And for $10 at the auto part store I bought MAF cleaner spray and a #20 tamper resitant star bit to remove the sensor from the housing. I used the spray to clean the MAF, its housing and the inside of the filter box of all the K&N oil and then reassembled. I replaced the K&N with a paper filter and she started right up and ran fine (less the K&N's addt'l power). So in summation, you might want to try a cleaning before springing for a new sensor or god forbid giving the dealer $400+.

Good luck,
Jenn