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Thanks for your service...I've a 94 B body, LT1 with a 4L60E.  For about a month now, 1st gear went away...when in 'drive' I start from stop, trans seems to strain, then when normal 1>2 occurs, I get a bump and then everything seems to work normally until I come to another stop.  If I start out in "2" (1 has been locked out since trans was rebuilt 3 yrs ago) it seems to not have the strain or bump; I just upshift at about 20MPH.  Also, there is no WOT downshift into 1st at any speed; used to occur below 30MPH.  I dropped the pan, found 3 loose valvebody bolts.  Then I replaced the 1>2 and 3>4 shift solenoids, and still no 1st.  Dropped pan again and pulled valve body, but didn't see anything wrong (don't really know what to look for).  Put all the BB's back in the right spot (I have the Helm manual) and it works as before, but no 1st gear.  Time for another rebuilt?  

hog rider
i have a e40d tranz been kicking my butt
it has a harsh engagement park to reverse an reverse to drive
changed selonide pack also changed tcc  

jackass1
Check your   Vehicle for codes  first ,  Then check your pressure(mainline)
you should have no more than 70 to 90 Lbs. at idle in neut. Drive and Reverse   Get back to me with the Spechs.
a sticking valve in the Valve body or Acculumator body could cause this.
Was this receiently worked on ?  
Hog Rider

cloudhome2
If your trans has been working fine for Quite some time I cannot see as anything would be Misplaced ( as Per the Valve body  Checkballs )
How was the fluid color and any smell ?
You really need to get it on a scanner and look at the Data and Make sure this is being commanded for 1St. and it is really in 1st. before you go further.  
Hog Rider

Hog Rider help!!1

I have 2006 Toyota Forerunner with a sealed transmission. I had my oil changed Saturday. On the way home the transmission began slipping. I drove it about 20 miles the next day and it was still slipping. I took it to the dealership today and they said the oil change idiot drained the transmission fluid instead of the oil. They say the transmission is burned up and want $4000 dollars to replace it. The oil change place denies draining the transmission fluid and says sue us.

I went to the dealership and looked at it and they are right he drained the transmission fluid. However, the dealership has not dropped the transmission. No lights ever came on, nor did I smell anything nor hear gears grinding. I am worried the dealership is taking me to the cleaners. Is it possible there was no damage in driving it only a few miles. How would they know it is burned up if they haven't looked at it?

I am thinking about having them refill it with fluid and see how it drives.
Any advise?
Thanks, stuck between a rock and a hard place.  

Post #1
1993 350 van rear wheel drive 360 A 518 trans.
I bought this used at 60,000 and transmission
broke.

Evidently this is the 727 with an overdrive?
From what I can find, the manufacturer just punch
-ed the hydraulic  parts out-no machine work and
tollerance was very sloppy, which cause the units
(transmission) to fail. Did they improve on this
in the remanufactured units?
What is the best: remanufactured, rebuilt, or
renew?

Where would one find good transmission people?

What load can this unit tow? can this be used
with 4wd axels?  


There is an overdrive button and I can feel it
shift. Does it have a *lockup? how would one tell?

Where would one look on the transmission
for information?

Emcc is shown in the electrical parts 'locater'
and a plug on the vehicle right below the code
plug(in).
What kind of relay for this emcc?  and if *relay
seems missing will lockup and or o/d work?

Are there any revisions to converter for manual lockup?  

I am not hog rider but will chime in.
For your Toyota.

You may or may not have found an answer.
Try refilling the transmission and hope for the best.

Next time stay away from those jiffy "rube" places.  

Help.....I just bought a 2003 Silverado Z71 with 114,000 miles on it. I bought it to pull a 5300 pound camper with. After having it about a week I have noticed that when it shifts from 1st to 2nd it feels like it hesitates or takes several seconds after it starts to shift to complete the shift. It does NOT rev up like it is slipping. I have inspected the fluid and it looks good with no burnt smell and the pan doesnt look like it has ever been off,so I was wanting to know it I should change the fluid and filter or not. I have heard the stories of people changing the fluid and filter and the tranny stop pulling. I have not pulled anything with it yet but I plan to next weekend.      PLEASE HELP  

I just had my 4l60e trans rebuilt all new internal part, had it a week, then it started in second gear no downshift I can manually shift from first to second thats it, I noticed that my mileage digies were flickering, my freind has the exact same car as i do same motor, he let me borrow his computer ECM becuase he has his motor pulled, i put it my car to check to see if my digies would flicker while driving I noticed then my transmission was shifting properly, I was told that flashing/reseting my ECM would might fix the problem, becuase it is obvious that is is the ECM not telling the trans to shift, if anyone could help that would be great, I would rather get it reset if it works and something hasnt fried in the ECM its either I buy a new ECM for 134.99 plus 69.99 to flash it, or take my old ECM to the store and get it flashed for 69.99 and the possiblilty that it dont fix the problem and i am out of 70 dollars. No error codes either, wich is odd should have had something, I had the trans tested and it was a pass with no problems. NEED HELP it really sucks to drive everywhere in second gear,  

I have a 1995 4L60E with no first or fourth.  It has no check engine or stored codes.  I have replaced the shift solenoids (A & B they were both good). Checked the AFL and pressure solenoid also good.  I have checked the fuse and ignition switch and it is providing power to the tranny.  These were all the things I found from reading numerous articles on-line.  There are quite a few people with this problem who don't post the solution.  Maybe you can help me check the next step.
Thanks.  

Hog Rider,
93 Chev P/U, 4L60E, shifts fine, leaks oil out of pump seal @ converter, not pump to case (I think), only above 50-60 mph. Around town, no leak, get it up on highway, comes out weep hole in inspection cover and between cover and pan and soaks the pan. Wipe it off and just drive, no highway, no leak. Any ideas? Could it be the pressure be getting too high at higher rpm's? Just did it all of sudden, but I also don't drive it that much.  

The old 4L60E fluid leak,What you have here is a well known problem with this unit,the front pump bushing wears,leaving the converter room to move around on the trans front pump seal,When I get one with this problem I replace the pump bushing,the pump seal, the seal retainer and the converter.The converter hub is always scored from the bushing.  

I have a 2000 Yukon, 2WD, with the 4L60E transmission.  About 6 months ago, it started have hard 1-2 shifts only once in a while, after I'd been driving for an hour or more.  If I turned off the engine and restarted it, the problem immediately went away.  No engine light, no codes.

I ordered a new/rebuilt valve body from a transmission shop and had a local mechanic install it.  It had the Sonnax TCC update, but otherwise was a stock valve body.

Now I've got a new problem that's even more a hassle:  At about 40-45 mph, I get a constant "shuttle" between 4th and overdrive, and I see the tach jumping about 300-400 rpm's.  It's like it doesn't want to fully lock into overdrive.  At 60-70 mph or more, it works just fine.  It only seems to do this crazy behavior at about 40-50mph.

At this point, what should I do?  Is there a part that I can have replaced in my old valve body to fix the harsh 1-2 shift?  Is there a way to bench test my old valve body to find the problem?  Or can the new valve body be adjusted somehow?

Thanks for any info you can provide.  

hi terron here im going to tear down transmission 2004 4t65e looking for some thing broken,  

terron here. i have started taking 4t65e apart, have come to 3rd clutch return spring and snap ring.snap ring came off. looks good no damage. why would it come off.