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Posted: 12/04/05
11:24 AM
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Hello. I have a 1989 Chrysler Lebaron 2.4 ltr. It will not start. A few months ago it started idling high at 2.5 rpm, going up to a maximum of 3 rpm at about 100 km/hr. I drove it like this anyway, since adding some fuel injector cleaner seemed to bring the idle down a bit, (to 2 rpm), and the car still worked, up until now. I did check the trouble codes using the key sequence and got the following error codes (in this order): 12, 44, 37, 25 ..............After looking up the codes I find they are listed as the following: 12: battery recently disconnected (not important) 44: No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR 44 Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem
OR 44 Battery temperature out of range 37 part throttle lock/unlock solenoid driver circuit (87-89) 25 Automatic Idle Speed (AIS) motor driver circuit shorted or target idle not reached, vacuum leak found . Now the car will not start. The only thing I noticed different is that a day prior to this the idle was chugging a little bit, going below 1 rpm and then fluctuating up and down to 2 rpm. It was making ticking noises from somewhere in the front end just 1 hr prior to the not starting problem. The cat converter is separated a bit from the manifold, but it hasn't caused any problems before other than noise. We boosted the car thinking it might be the alternator, it finally did start after an hour of turning it over. It almost sounds like it wants to go but isnt getting any fuel, though the fuel pump does kick in when I attempt to start it. Check gauge light comes on when attempting to start. After it started we took it for a spin and it chugged violently until speed reached 100. Barely got it in the driveway as it kept stalling. Antifreeze blew out all over the engine. (there is a small hole in the rad near the top, but it never blew out before). Idiot lights state the car did not overheat, but came close. Now it will not start up again...same problem. All fluids are topped up. Could this be caused by the fault codes I received, and if so why did it run all summer and now wont start? How can this be fixed? Is there a way to bypass the computer to even get the car started to get it to a shop? Thankyou very much. cc
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Posted: 12/05/05
12:26 PM
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Update... Checked the oil, no sign of the chocolate milk it apparently looks like when theres a head gasket gone, and the antifreeze wasn't frothy either. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer, and am now getting all the former fault codes, plus a new one....43: cylinder misfire (according to Chrysler codes) SIGH...... 
Could all this mess be caused by dirty injectors, a faulty spark plug, or distributor ? I'd just like to get the car started so I can get it to the city to a shop....
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Posted: 12/08/05
01:16 PM
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You can try to swap out the alternator for a remanufactured one, but it sounds like it may have already damaged your electrical system by pushing alternating current. Have it towed to a shop because it doesn't sound safe to drive.
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tommy m
Enthusiast
| Posts: 327
| Joined: 12/05
Posted: 12/10/05
06:51 AM
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 creepycarrie wrote: Update... Checked the oil, no sign of the chocolate milk it apparently looks like when theres a head gasket gone, and the antifreeze wasn't frothy either. I unplugged the battery to reset the computer, and am now getting all the former fault codes, plus a new one....43: cylinder misfire (according to Chrysler codes) SIGH......
Could all this mess be caused by dirty injectors, a faulty spark plug, or distributor ? I'd just like to get the car started so I can get it to the city to a shop....
if u have a coil pack them pull it off and if u see a line in or looks like a crack going from one side to the other // u have to turn the coil over to see the crack//this can be caused being old or having one plug wire off and turning over the ENG witch causes it to short out
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