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Hi I had the same problem. And I had to replace both the coil and the control module in the distributor. There is a lot of people that told me the coil doesnt go bad but that fixed mine. I bought my car not running and had to learn from there. Who ever had the car last had left the ignition on and fried both! Hope this helps.  

code 1 7,8 unplug the harness @ oxygen sensor, at bottom of manifold you will get a steady yellow code until you replace that sensor buth the car will always start.i foud it because related to same wire ,distributor ,oxy sensor ,tps,temp sensor #2,complaint was crank like hell but wont start.but some time was ok.  

a other thing check the wire on sensor remove it from manifold and try to clean it.you will save some money.  

Check out this site http://www.cartechhome.com it has a lot of information on car problem diagnosis.  

i found this site with the codes and were to  find the blue were for the obd and thought that i should post it hope it help you guy that are trying to find it.

Honda 1990-1995 obd1 code retrieval
For most Honda vehicles between 1990-95 models, you can get the code yourself by using the diagnostic connector located in the passenger side kick panel. All you do is use a jumper wire in the 2 pin service connector. (There is a second connector with a 3 pin use for a scanner). You can then turn the key on and watch the code being flash in your dash panel check engine light indicator. On some models, a led light is used to flash the code instead and this led light indicator is located in the computer itself.

Shown below is the location of Honda diagnostic connector:



When counting the flashes, use 43 as a guide like 4 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes is code 43. Other code that follows is separated by a long pause.

Here are some common Honda OBD1 codes:

Code 0 and 11 Electronic Control Module (ECM)
Code1 Heated oxygen sensor A
Code 2 Oxygen content B
Code 3 and 5 Manifold Absolute Pressure
Code 4 Crank position sensor
Code 6 Engine coolant temperature
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 8 Top dead center sensor
Code 9 No.1 cylinder position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 12 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 13 Barometric pressure sensor
Code 14 Idle air control valve or bad ECM
Code 15 Ignition output signal
Code 16 Fuel Injector
Code 17 Vehicle speed sensor
Code 19 A/T lock-up control solenoid
Code 20 Electric load detector
Code 21 V-TEC control solenoid
Code 22 V-TEC pressure solenoid
Code 23 Knock sensor
Code 30 A/T FI signal A
Code 30 A/T FI signal B
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 43 Fuel supply system
Code 45 Fuel supply metering
Code 48 Heated oxygen sensor
Code 61 Front heated oxygen sensor
Code 63 Rear heated oxygen sensor
Code 65 Rear heated oxygen sensor heater
Code 67 Catalytic converter system
Code 70 Automatic transaxle
Code 71 Misfire detected cylinder 1
Code 72 Misfire detected cylinder 2
Code 73 Misfire detected cylinder 3
Code 74 Misfire detected cylinder 4
Code 75 Misfire detected cylinder 5
Code 76 Misfire detected cylinder 6
Code 80 Exhaust recirculation system
Code 86 Coolant temperature
Code 92 Evaporative emission control system

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SOUNDS LIKE YOU'VE DONE A LOT OF STUFF TO CREATE A LOT OF PROBLEMS, GENERAL RULE IF YOUR GETTING FIRE AND GAS IT SHOULD RUN WHICH IS A THING OF THE PAST, DEALERS AND SHOPS DONT SPEND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS ON DIAGNOSTIC MACHINES FOR NOTHING.. OH SHADE TREE MECHANICS ARE OUT ON A LIMB UNLESS YOUR WILLING TO CHASE GHOST IN WHICH CASE YOU BETTER GET THE OLE CREDIT CARD OUT AND WATCH FIRST FEW MONTHS BILL... SORRY TO BE THE BEARER OF BAD NEWS OR MAYBE GOOD NEWS FOR YOU, THERE COULD BE A SENSOR NOT WORKING, LOOSE CONNECTION,LOW FUEL PRESSURE,CROSSED WIRES, FUSE LINK BAD, IN WHICH CASE YOU'LL HAFT TO GO TO THE DEALER TO FIND OUT WHERE IT IS... GET MY DRIFT THIS IS JUST AMONG ABOUT A HUNDRED OTHER THINGS IT COULD BE,.... TAKE MY ADVICE, SAVE SOME MONEY, BITE THE BULLET AND GET IT TO A SHOP WHERE THEY CAN TROUBLE SHOOT IT AND FIX IT.. DONT FEEL BAD I USE TO BE A CAR GEEK TOO BUT AFTER GETTING MY FEELINGS HURT AS WELL AS MY POCKET BOOK I'VE LEARNED MY LESSON.....GOOD LUCK  

I guess we must consult our mechanic if something  like this happens

usedpartx  

Hi all,

There's a ton of info. on this thread, but nothing about exactly what's happening with my car so I'm going to add to the pile.

1991 Honda Accord LX Wagon
Automatic Transmission

We got this car for free and have put about $1600 into it...and driven it 35 miles total. The car was sitting outside for several months, not running, before we got it.

Brand new (within last 5 days):
Water pump
Exhaust system
Spark plugs
Timing belt
Distributor (replaced because plugs were gas fouled and diagnostic test indicated the distributor needed to be replaced. Same distributor cap, though.)

Here's the problem and the timeline:
a) After having distributor replaced today, drove about 7 miles at 40 mph. Ambient temperature: 20 degrees ***

b) Shut car off, drove a very short distance, and started it 4 times in 90 minutes.

c) Turned car on and drove 6 miles on wet roads at 55 mph. Ambient temperature still 20 degrees ***

d) Turned car off at gas station. 3 minutes later, car wouldn't start. Engine is revving, but no start. Waited another 3 minutes, pressed gas pedal to the floor as I turned the key, and car started right up.

e) Drove 2 miles home and shut car off. Waited 3 minutes, and car wouldn't start under any circumstance.

Other Information:

The temperature outside is still 20 degrees F.

Today the mechanic said the spark plugs and wires all look good, as well as the distributor cap.

The key can be hard to turn.

There was a small amount steam/smoke rising off from under the hood after driving it; when we were changing the spark plugs we definitely dripped the fouling liquid on the engine block so the steam/smoke may have been from that.

Any ideas? We are really reluctant to take it to yet another mechanic, as the free car we were expecting to throw $1,000 into has now cost well beyond that amount. And please: No lectures about "free cars". We're in a real bind, and it was truly the only option.

Thanks in advance for your help!  

Turns out the problem with my car (see previous post) was the PGM-FI Relay.

Part: $75
Total w/labor: $135

My mechanic said this is a common problem in '91 Honda Accords, and that if it's faulty it can destroy the distributor.

Problem solved (hopefully).  

i totally agree with the first place to look is the main relay under the dashboard usually on the left side of the column...  brown or grey box about 2 inches by 3 inches and an inch thick... held in place with a 10mm headed bolt...

if anybody has any expericance soldering.. .. take it apart and examine it for cracked solder joints on the circuit board bottom... use a magnifying lens... to examine it..   look for little rings (circular cracks)  in the solder connections..  many times this fixes them.. usually i recommend.. buying a new one.. and fixing the old one for a spare.. just in case..  

You have to drop the tank

mecarz  

Dassault14  u should check u fuses and relays is the first thing u have to do and after that check a loose wire some times they burn next to the engine ,check time bell or time chain is the is the main,that control the crack shaft good luck