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I just changed mine a week ago and it was quite easy. There are just two phillips head screws next to each other on the back side of the distributor and are easy to take out using a stubby screwdriver.. be sure to put a lot of pressure on the screwdriver because they were pretty tight..  

Hi. Ive got a 1990 honda accord Exi and i use to have the same prob of it not startin up sometimes.Few days back it gave up all togather. The mechanic said its the fuel pump n a new fuel pump cost arnd $300 bucks. Should i put in a used one or do i have to stick with the new one? and does anyone knows how to change it? does the whole fuel tank has to be taken off or can it be done by takin the back seat off?  

Thanks, KillaD.  Just replaced the ICM and coil...no problems, and the machine started right up!  NAPA's ICM appeared not to fit at first look...and there was only one hole to attach the heat sink...but it all went together.  

I have a 91 Accord that was running fine.  A few days ago while driving the gauges and clock went dead and then the car cut off.  When I insert the key with the door open the door open warning chime works but the clock and gauges don't.  The car will turn over briskly, however there is no spark at the plugs.  I have replaced the distributor/coil assembly and the car started and ran.  During the next trip to the store the car once again died and will not restart, same issue- the car will turn over fine, no fire, no gauges, no clock.  Abient temperature is cold, so it should not play a role. Alternator is fine. Help!  

Sambridge...your problem sounds very similar to mine.  In my case (90 Accord) I replaced the rotor and coil, but it was the ignitor (sometimes called Ignition Control Module or ICM) that was bad.  It's about the size of a flash memory card, below and to the left of the coil.  Take it out with a stub phillips #2 (magnitized).  The new ICM cost about 70 bucks at NAPA.  The ICM fits on top of a heat sink with two screws...but the NAPA "after market" version only had slot for one to match...but it worked anyway.  Whole process took about an hour...and I'm a slow worker.  Good luck!  

Thanks Milton Guy I appreciate the post. I will try that and see how things go.  Thanks again.  

I would recommend checking/changing your ignition switch, had a similar problem with my 92 accord, and once i pulled the steering column apart, i found my switch was in dire need of replacing. might be worth your time to have a look.  

Thankyou rockhound.  You were exactly right!  The contacts in the switch assembly (known as the switch interruptor commutateur) were worn. For those who are interested.  

There are three positions (contact areas) in the switch interruptor.  One for the first turn notch of the key and is responsible for (radio power on) the second turn notch (gauges(red lights- oil, ect) digital clock  and POWER to THE COIL)  Third turn notch (starter).  The door chime comes on when the key is inserted without turning.  

After testing for continuity at the three positions- I discovered a bad circuit contact at position two (no continuity).  This explains why the starter would turn while the gauges and digital clock would not function.  ( The first (radio) and third contacts (starter) were fine the second was bad (power to coil).

This is also why the car would start intermitently and run sometimes.  When the contacts were making good contact everything was fine when the contacts ceased making contact due to vibration, temperature ect. the car would cut off -- just like the switch had been turned off.

As for the switch interruptor commutateur. This assembly consists of a wiring harness and round plastic switch column insert and is easy to replace.  The steering column cover must be removed.  There are two screws that attach the round plastic housing to the back of the ignition switch. The wiring harness runs from the switch down the steering column and plugs into the upper area of the fuse box inside the car. (driver's side).

Remember, if the car won't start, but the engine will turn over.
 
1. Check for spark at the plug
2. If there is spark it is likely a problem with fuel system or timing.
3. If there is no spark - Check the distributor/coil/ignitor assembly. Replace as needed.
4. If this assembly is good -  Check the ignition switch interruptor commutateur for continuity. Replace as needed.
5.  If the switch is good - check the connection at the fuse box.

Hope this is helpful!  

Hi.I was having trouble with the starting,as sometimes it use to start up n shut itself off immediately and have to wait a few mins or so to start it up, so got the fuel pump changed.It still gave me trouble and this time changed the FUEL RELAY.It seems to be working fine now but another problem has occured.After changing the fuel relay now whenever i press the brakes before coming static the engine shakes n turns itself off.It happens alot when the car is cold and a couple of times when its warm.
I tried puttin the gear in N and applying the brakes but it still did the same.Looking at the RPM, while the car shift itself to lower gear before getting static,it goes all the way down to 0 and that is when the engine shakes and turn itself off. Can it be a faulty fuel relay which i replaced or is it something else?  

It's in the main fuse box under the hood of the car...passenger side right in front of the window.  The main relay is the biggest fuse that has 2 screws on either side of it (it's the closest one to the front of the car).  

And just in case you need to know....the other fuse box is on the drivers side right by you left foot...it's hiding behind that useless black foot rest on the floor.  

I had a similar problem with my 1996 honda acura and I would start sometimes and then another time all I get is ignition the engine doesn't turnover. My mechanic removed the key barrel and the ignition switch cleaned it up and my problem went away for good.  

You are very right I had the same problem with my 1996 Acura and that was the problem.

Thanks for the other information i am not a mechanic but I own a garage your info was helpful.  

I had this same problem with my Honda Accord 1991 for months.  I had two mechanics.  They could not figure anything out.  The problem was the heater hose.  It had a crack no one could see or bothered to see.  The car was always running hot and I was constantly adding water or antifreeze to the radiator.  The hose finally broke.  One mechanic put a sealant into the radiator.  This kept the car running for a time.  The old hose just finally borke.  

Have a 91 accord ex had problem with no start slow down and die. fixed relay, replaced relay (did the same thing) finally got info . look inside distributor was putting oil past seal. replaced distributor works great.