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I have the same problem with my 91 Honda Accord not starting in hot weather.  I want to change the Main relay, but I do not know where to find it.  I have gone to all the web sites suggested and still cannot find it in my car.  If someone knows exactly where it is on a 91 Honda Accord please tell me.  Different sites suggest different places.  Is it by the fuse box or under the stearing column?  I have never done any mechanical work so please be detailed!!!  Thanks  

I have a 1991 Honda Accord EX. It had been running fine till now. It generally starts instantenously, However ofen times when I turn off the engine and try to start back on "IMMEDIATELY", it refuses to start. But it will start if I leave a gap of 5-10 mins. Can any one tell me what might be going on. I have spent quite a fortune on this car over the past 3-4 years. I am tired of spending money at the mechanic. Any input is highly appreciated.... Thanks!!!  

Add me to the list... still trying to figure out what is wrong.  My Service Techs are getting rich.

Stalling problem with 1996 Honda Accord.  Problem is totally RANDOM.  It starts out running great, even in stop/go traffic – then for no apparent reason - suddenly stalls when rolling to stop (such as at a red light). We can avoid stalling if we catch it fast enough by revving the engine.  Sometimes it will restart – sometimes it won’t.  Adding to the confusion - it will run for days with no problems.  

Initially, stalling was the only problem.

New problem – Starting - (again RANDOM).  Most days the car starts just fine.  And then randomly, the engine tries to start (it’s not sluggish), but it can’t kick over… as though it’s not getting any gas.  The only way it will start is to start it cranking and then depress the accelerator and hold it down while until it kicks over.   Temperature does not seem to a factor, though it does seem to be more of a problem when the engine has been off for a couple of hours (or overnight) – but it happens when the engine is warm, too.  

The Check Engine Light comes on – code P1381.
Are these two problems related?  

We’ve had a ton of work done trying to track down the problem.  Most recently took it to a Honda Dealer Service where they did the work for SERVICE BULLETIN 98-081, EMISSIONS WARRANTY EXTENSION.  I can supply the list of work done under the warranty if needed. It included replacing the Main Relay.

We also had the following work done:
Complete Automatic Transmission Flush.
Fuel Injection Service.
New Spark Plugs and Wires.
New Timing Belt, Water Pump, Cam/Crank Seals, Coolant and Drive Belts.
Ignition Wires.

Car ran great for the first two weeks out of the shop... now we are back where we started with stalling and not starting problems.

Anybody out there have any ideas?  

Just wondering if anyone has gotten any closer to truly fixing their 91(+/-) Accords for good. It sounds like I could be in for quite a ride and may be better off just getting a different car. We have had one mechanic diagnose the fuel pump. Another shop gave us a whole list of things we "should" do which did not include the fuel pump. Odd. So, should I take the leap and spend $500 bucks replacing fuel pump, or start looking for another car? Thanks a bunch!  

csm3337:
I have the same problem with my 91 Honda Accord not starting in hot weather.  I want to change the Main relay, but I do not know where to find it.  I have gone to all the web sites suggested and still cannot find it in my car.  If someone knows exactly where it is on a 91 Honda Accord please tell me.  Different sites suggest different places.  Is it by the fuse box or under the stearing column?  I have never done any mechanical work so please be detailed!!!  Thanks

SYMPTOMS: In HOT, SUMMER WEATHER (especially direct sunlight) = car cranks (good electrical system), but doesn't start (no fuel).  If you let the car sit until the sun goes down, or park in the shade, you can start with no problems.

Q: Cause?
A: Main Relay

Q: How much does the Main Relay cost?
A: $50, give or take.

Q: How much does it cost for someone to do it for you?
A: I originally took it to the Honda dealer and they quoted me about $115 to do the labor alone, after I've already purchased the main relay.  I performed the labor myself to reduce the cost.

Q: Where can you find it?
A: It is under the steering column, near the side of the car.

Q: How can you get to it?
A: I performed this a few years ago on my 92 EX so I don't recall all the exact steps, but here goes.  You need to move your chair all the way back, then get down on your back and stick your head under the steering column, right where the brake/gas pedal are.  Once there, look up and see if you find something that looks like the main relay you just bought.  If you do, you need to undo a few screws or nuts (I forget which) holding it to the side of the car, and also unplug a few thick plugs.  If you don't see it, you may have to remove other object(s) blocking it, such as a cover or whatever.

NOTE: This hard to do because you have no leverage, and it's a tight space.  The smaller you are, the easier it will be.

Total time it took me:  About 45+ mins because I wasn't sure what I was doing at first...  You do NOT have to take the dash board off like I did lol.  Again, sorry I did this a few years ago so I don't recall all the little details.  

magnolia:
Add me to the list... still trying to figure out what is wrong.  My Service Techs are getting rich.

Stalling problem with 1996 Honda Accord.  Problem is totally RANDOM.  It starts out running great, even in stop/go traffic – then for no apparent reason - suddenly stalls when rolling to stop (such as at a red light). We can avoid stalling if we catch it fast enough by revving the engine.  Sometimes it will restart – sometimes it won’t.  Adding to the confusion - it will run for days with no problems.  

Initially, stalling was the only problem.

New problem – Starting - (again RANDOM).  Most days the car starts just fine.  And then randomly, the engine tries to start (it’s not sluggish), but it can’t kick over… as though it’s not getting any gas.  The only way it will start is to start it cranking and then depress the accelerator and hold it down while until it kicks over.   Temperature does not seem to a factor, though it does seem to be more of a problem when the engine has been off for a couple of hours (or overnight) – but it happens when the engine is warm, too.  

The Check Engine Light comes on – code P1381.
Are these two problems related?  

We’ve had a ton of work done trying to track down the problem.  Most recently took it to a Honda Dealer Service where they did the work for SERVICE BULLETIN 98-081, EMISSIONS WARRANTY EXTENSION.  I can supply the list of work done under the warranty if needed. It included replacing the Main Relay.

We also had the following work done:
Complete Automatic Transmission Flush.
Fuel Injection Service.
New Spark Plugs and Wires.
New Timing Belt, Water Pump, Cam/Crank Seals, Coolant and Drive Belts.
Ignition Wires.

Car ran great for the first two weeks out of the shop... now we are back where we started with stalling and not starting problems.

Anybody out there have any ideas?

I don't know if this will be the solution, but my 92 EX also had issues w/stalling at stop lights, and if it doesn't stall, the engine RPM drops down to almost zero.

I did two things before this occured.  I took to have an oil change, which the tech guys sprayed water from beneath my car engine to clean up the oil, and I also washed the engine w/water.

My O2 sensor is underneath the car, plugged into the exhaust.  I had to jack up the car, and I unplugged the O2 sensor, cleaned it by gently pressing a clean, lint-free cloth to it, and that fixed the issue.

Try checking that out.  It might be dirty from dust or oil.  

I have a problem with my 92 honda accord basicly it has a hard time starting and then when it does I put it into drive then the car shuts off and the check engine light goes on so then i start it up again engine light is off and i might be lucky to get it to drive and when i do it runs for a good amount of time but then it will shut off and engine light goes on also when i get it into drive anf try to drive the engine light comes on and the car makes this rumbling type noise and doent want to accel at all so i was hoping i can find out from u what the problem is cuase its making me very annoyed  

yeah I know the feeling. My 1994 buick park avenue is similar. It starts fine most of the time and when the engine gets warm and I try to start it won't. But if I leave the gap like youi did it starts. i have tried replacing gas caps it works for a little then the problem continues. I have spent alot of money on this car to. When i take it to diagnose it they find nothing wrong because it starts and the computer finds nothing wrong. go figure if you find a solution for this problem let me know. Thanks Jonathan  

This site has the details on all models to find the Main Relay.
Clear concise direction with excellent pictures.
http://techauto.te.funpic.org/mainrelaydefine.php  

My 91 Honda Accord LX was doing the same thing. A mechanic came out and replaced the fuel pump and all of the fuel filters. Still wouldn't start, or started off and on. He bought a relay switch today, not the problem. So, now he is going to try replacing the ignitor in the distributor because it came up code 15 when he checked it out today. He did not have his *checker* with him last time.

We are crossing our fingers that this is the cure.

Anyonw else here solve the problem by replacing the ignitor?  

The ignitor is definately something to look at.  The ignitor is also known as the Ignition Control Module (ICM), so if you roll up into Napa Auto Parts, that's the name they'll go by.

IMPORTANT: If you've never replaced the ICM in your '91 LX (or similar cord) you should know that Honda had a major recall on these igniters in ~1996. The way to tell if yours was recallled is if it says "OKI" on the igniter, then it's *NOT* ok--replace. If it says "NEC" then there's No NEed to replaCe.

I do know that on '90/1 models there is an internal ignition coil, but from what I've heard those rarely go bad. Either way, a simple resistance check on the coil will tell you if it's bad. Check out your Hayne's or Shop manual for those ohm readings.

Here's a picture of the ICM (cord '93 LX):

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q235/mattytraxx/igniter.jpg

Let me present two starting problems at hand that have known solutions.

CASE STUDY #1:
A driver was in an Accord '93 when it died on the road. He coasted to the shoulder lane where he was able to restart the car. Later that same day, it started with no problem. However, in the morning, the car had problems starting again.

CASE STUDY #2:
A driver was trying to start an Accord '93 on a hot day with no luck. Later in the afternoon, after the ambient temperature outside had decreased, the car started up fine. For a year, the car had difficulty starting in hot weather, but once the temperature outside had cooled down enough, the driver could start the car and it would *stay* running no matter how hot it got outside.

PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS
One problem is the Main Relay, and the other is the ICM, but which one is which? Both problems #1 and #2 deal with starting issues, but the important difference is when the car starts and if it remains running. The solution to problem #1 was replacing the ICM. The solution to #2 was fixing the main relay.

Somebody already posted a link to solution #2 so I won't duplicate.  The Main Relay has a design flaw which causes difficulty starting in hot weather due to a poor solder joint. This problem should be addressed regardless.

Back to case study #1.

ICM REPLACEMENT
This you can do yourself, you just have to get the part (Napa etc.). If you take the whole thing off like I did, it'll be easier to work with, but you'll screw your timing. Use a paint marker before you remove it, or better yet, just reposition the timing  Also, when installing the new ICM, be sure to use the heat sink compound that comes with it. This will ensure optimal heat transfer between the ICM and the heat sink by filling the air gaps.

Good luck everyone,  

My 1990 Accord EXR is doing the same as all of yours...we have replaced the ignitor AND the relay and it still won't start. Tested fuel pump, it works fine. Tested starting system, it's good too.  Oddly enough, if we rock the car to get fuel moving around in tank, and pound on the gas while cranking, it can sometimes be coaxed.  My mechanic can't even think of another thing to try... I've read all your posts and I wonder is there ANYthing else we could do?  

I had similar issue with 1991 accord. I changed starter motor and Distributor (whole set) . Problem seems to be gone.  

I have a 94 honda accord with the same problem of car not starting, though no one has described it in this particular way.  The car when turned to the on position none of the dashlights some on not even the clock, though there is power to the radio.  When you turn it over to crank it cranks just fine, with the all the lights in the dash lit up, and sounds like if you release the key it will be running, but it imediatly stops when key is released still no dash lights on.  If I pump the gas while cranking the RPM's go up, so I know its getting fuel and spark, which points me away from main relay and distributor.  Any help will be greatly appreciated.  Trying to fix this myself, cause mechanics are espensive, and daycare is even more expensive.  

Don't heat it! Try a 3/4 inch air gun with an impact socket. works every time. There is a tool you can buy that has a large allen type end that uses a breaker bar.Needs about 600 lbs of pressure to turn.The bolt has a type of locktight we call the black death. Good luck.