Automotive Forums

for jenerater. it could be the main relay . check to see if you have battery voltage at the distributer connecter if so replace the whole distributor. it is the best way to go. if no voltage replace the main relay.   {check with the key in run position}  

My wife drives a 93 accord and it had a similar problem which flares up in SUMMER only. The car just won't start. Everything seemed fine - battery, starter, fuel pump.... etc. And what's even more ironic is that when it started it started in one crank. And every time when it didn't start, I would have to let it rest for like 10 minutes and then try again and eventually it would start. So I guessed that may be the fuel line dries out due to Summer. So I suggested my wife to go and periodically start her car every 3 hours or so like during lunch breaks or coffee breaks. This problem was happening when the car was left without starting under the sun from 9-5 type of a deal. Anyhow, from the point, ir from when my wife started to go to the parking lot and start the car every 2-3 hours, the problem went away and since then I haven't seen this problem (been through 2 summers and no problem). So the solution is a practical and cheap one (infact no cost !!!) try it.... and see if that works. Technically speaking .... starting the engine every 3 hours or so, I guess keeps the fuel line from drying out... and that was the trick.

ineedhondahelp wrote:

<BLOCKQUOTE><img src="/Themes/default/images/icon-quote.gif"> <strong>talkinbot wrote:</strong><div style="border:1px #000000 solid; background-color:#EBEBEB; padding:3px;"> i had the same trouble with my 92 honda accord lx i stuck a wire to jump the blue connector under dash on passenger side then turned on ignition to get the diagnostic code from check engine light my code was one long light then 4 quick lights giving me the code 14 i then called autozone to get code checked and it was the idle air control valve (iac) changed it out and all was fine no more problems<br /> </div></BLOCKQUOTE><br /> <br /> <br /> Which blue connector under the passagner dah are you referring to? I have a 92 Accord LX 2 door w/ the 5 spd that wont start and the check engine light is one. I would like to check this connector you speak of to get the code if possible. THank you<br />  

I have similar problems with my 93 accord. Periodically it will just stall while driving and will not start. After a few hrs or sometimes couple of days it will start. I've replaced fuel pump, fuel strainer, fuel filter, dist cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, coil, Main Relay. Still the problem exist. In the last 2 weeks it happened twice. Any ides?  

Hi my friend,
i would say to try to replace your temperature sensor.I have a same problem with an accord and this was the solution.  

Dude I had the same problem with my 94 Accord. Replace the Main Relay. I struggled for a long time but I knew it wasnt the fuel pump. This relay gives power to the fuel pump. It will work most of the time but intermittantly it will not work. Next time when it does this, open the driver's side door and bang on the side of the dash while you're trying to start it. This is where the relay is. If it starts then the relay is bad. The relay is very common so it can be found in stock at any dealer. The cost is $67 plus tax. It is a pain to replace however, being that it's in the dash. I had mine done for me. Email me if you have any problems. auggiesurfer@hotmail
God Bless,
Chase  

Hey -- I have a 91 Honda Accord 2 door.  I had a similar problem, I would try to start up my car, but the engine would sputter.  I would try to give it gas and that would help a little sometimes, sometimes it would just die anyways.  Eventually, however, the car would start up and I could drive it just fine.  But after a while, even when I was driving along regularly I would get that stalling, sputtering feeling from the engine.  If I tried to push on the accelerator, it would feel like I couldn't get anymore power to the engine.

So my brother asked a local mechanic about the problem, and the mechanic instantly knew the problem -- he said I had a bad distributor, and it was seizing for some reason, or at least the rotor wasn't spinning smoothly.  The mechanic said that the distributors on 91 accords have this problem all the time.  So I went to a junk yard, got a distributor out of a junked accord ($75) and swapped out my old distributor for the new one.  And sure enough, the problem went away.  

I took the old distributor and completely dissassembled it, and the problem was obvious.  The (supposedly) sealed roller ball-bearings on the shaft inside the distributor were rusted out and retainer ring was complete rusted and twisted around the bearings.  When you turned the rotor or the drive sproket you could really feel how rusty the spin of the shaft was.  I have pictures of the rust bearings and retainer ring, if anyone is interested.  

Hi, I am having the exact problem that you just described, with my 1991 honda accord ex.  I just finished installing a new automatic transmission shifter cable, which solved one problem, but I couldnt understand why I was still getting this stalling, sputtering feeling when I start the car, or accelerate.  Just like you descibed, after a while it would stop, and drive just fine.  As well, sometimes when I start the car it doesnt do it at all.  For this reason, I think that you are bang on when you say it is the distributor.  If you could send me any additional info, or tips of things you encountered when replacing yours, as well as the photos that you said you had, it would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks, Steve  

"(talkinbot)" i had the same trouble with my 92 honda accord lx     i stuck a wire to jump the blue connector under dash on passenger side  then turned on ignition to get the diagnostic code from check engine light  my code was one long light then 4 quick lights giving me the code 14 i then called autozone to get code checked and it was the idle air control valve (iac) changed it out and all was fine no more problems
 
how do you do that  what blue connector do i need to jump dose any one know where it is under the dash  

how do you do that?  

I just got a 91 Accord ex from my sister-in-law. It's for my son when he gets his DL and the price was right. FREE!. Niece told me that it started to not start a few weeks ago. Only did it a couple of times. So, I get it home. No problem. Went to start it a hour later, nothing. It turns but nothing. As if it's not getting fuel. I don't smell anything and I've confirmed spark. But I've not did any fuel checks. I do notice a very noticable vacuum when you take off the fuel cap. I have 3 other cars and none of them do it.

Tonight, I went to start it. It just turned over and over but not a hint of firing up. I took it out of gear, let it roll about a foot and it back in park. Tried to start it. It fumbled but didn't start. Turned key again, it tried to fire but no go. It did finally start. No indication of too much fuel. Just seems strange that it wouldn't fire till I took it out of gear, let it roll about a foot and put it back in park. When it does fire, it fires right up, idles fine. I don't have a manual or anything so I'm going to get one. Anyone recommend a source?  

Also.. what is the "relay" people keep talking about? What does it control?  

there was a nice artical on autorepairs.about.com that broke down how to test your "icm" (honda calls it the ignitor) which is inside the distributor.  basicly there is a blue wire that is the tac. and there is a black/yellow and a green/yellow.  those should have power.  they come from the coil.  if they do have power then everything else is working just your distributor is not working.  its getting power just dont work.   replacing the unit is the next option.  about $280 at most forien autoparts stores.  if there is no power at the ICM then check other things... the relay under dash near the left foot of the driver. else... sell it to me i'll buy it reallllly cheep j/k  

I have a 1991 EX and i'm having similar problems.  My engine currently just cranks and thats it.  Prior to that when i would gas the engine to a high RPM check engine light would turn on and there would be a fuel cut off.  I did self diagnostic and engine code 4 came up which is the crank position sensor.  I've been looking on how to replace this.  Winter is past alaska now and it seems that when the temp goes above 40deg it doesnt start just cranks i tried this morning at 30deg temps and it started right up with no problems.  Im planning on replacing the whole distributor *** but i dont want to buy all new stuff if i dont need to...any imputs?  Oh yeah also my ignition isnt working anymore so i rigged up a push button to with two wires to short the starter relay and I start up my car like that since i couldnt figure out what the problem w/ the ignition was. I've been driving the car w/ the button for about 2 months.  Think its just the pig tail?  

For anyone who may still be looking at this post, it is quite simple to get the codes. Under the glove box on the passenger side towards the right there will be an insulated wire with blue tape, this is the dtc connector. the connector is taped to the black insulated wire so it might be hidden so u might have to partially or fully remove the tape to get to the second insulated wire. It is very small and has two prongs. You will have to take a paper clip and bend it to make a u, or something similar and push into the connector to make a jumper. dont push too hard or it will damage the connector. You can use somethin else that is medal but you must make a complete curcuit, and push in and make sure is snug without damaging, you can push it just dont be dumb.YOU WILL NOT GET SHOCKED, a jumper is a reccommended procedure. The D4 or D3 light on your dash(transmission light) or another light will begin to blink. It will blink a certain amount of times giving you per say maybe 8 quick flashes indicating a code 8. Or it will blink once, pause, then 8 quick flashes. gives you an 18. if it blinks pauses blinks pauses, then blinks 3 quick times you have a 23. Dont worry it will repeat. keep a pen and paper to right down. you will know you have the codes right if you can guess when the next flash will come and how many, i would suggest keep going over them until you can guess them due to the fact you might get multiple codes. If it flashes and pauses, then flashes quick ones, pauses and flashes more those are seperate codes. You will have one series of flash pauses and quick flashes, or just quick ones to every code. There will not be long flashes followed by short flashes followed by long flashes. Only short flashes, or one set of long flashes followed by short flashes. Here is a website that might help.  http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinthewest/autotips/91acrdcodes.html
hope this helps