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FLEXIBLE FUEL SENSOR

 
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ADAMJB6381 ADAMJB6381
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 06/06
Posted: 06/13/06
12:23 PM

I HAVE A 1999 FORD RANGER XLT, 3.0L V6,4X4, AUTOMATIC WITH 150,000 MILES. MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE TROUBLE CODE THAT DISPLAYS IS P0176. THAT CODE IS A FLEXIBLE FUEL SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THIS IS AND HOW TO FIX IT? I TRIED THE REPAIR SHOPS BUT THEY WERENT SURE WHAT THAT WAS BECAUSE THEY NEVER SAW IT BEFORE.IS IT A PART? A SYSTEM? WHAT. PLEASE HELP ME IF POSSIBLE.  

Fordguy-#001 Fordguy-#001
New User | Posts: 20 | Joined: 06/06
Posted: 06/14/06
05:48 AM

The flex fuel sensor is located inline on the left frame rail. It detects the alchohol content of the fuel and sends a signal to the pcm. It has 3 wires, one is 12v, one is ground and the third is the pcm signal. Check wiring, if ok sensor is likely bad.  

gracebloodwell gracebloodwell
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 08/06
Posted: 08/04/06
01:10 AM

Hey Adam,

We have the same problem. I assume you got yours fixed? My mechanic said I neeed to buy a new flex-fuel box. Is that what you did?

If anyone has thoughts on where I can obtain one without having to pay for a ford issued one for $588 that would be great. Additionally, I wonder if there has been a recall for these flex-fuel systems.  It is frusterating that a feature I cannot even use in New England (ethanol) is causing me this much $ and time to get resolved.

Thanks in advance for any info/guidance...greatly appreciated.

Grace  

moltallica moltallica
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 01/07
Posted: 01/28/07
02:13 PM

I had the same problem come up after we had some unusually cold weather; the real pisser was I had decided about 3 weeks prior that I was going to trade the vehicle in for a new one. Obviously I did not want to spend 500 bucks to replace a sensor on a vehicle I was about to trade-in.

After much searching this is what I was able to determine.
1) The part is integral to flex fuel vehicles you cannot just disconnect it, even though the sensor is not used unless you run ethanol.
2) As far as I can tell you can only get the part from a dealer.
3) Engine performance should not be affected by this sensor malfunctioning; unless running ethanol; this is implied by point 1.
4) The engine appears to poll this sensor, when the vehicle is first started and periodically while driving, it appears when the fuel level changes significantly (like when driving thru hills)
5) 2000 was the last year ford used that part (lucky me owning a 2000 model)

I inspected the part and it appears to be a simple solenoid, this makes sense given that ethanol has a different density than gasoline. All you need to know is the density of ethanol the density of gasoline and the density of something to compare with I'm unsure what that would be aside from some liquid that has a very low freezing point and a very high vapor pressure.  You just monitor the position of the solenoid and you can determine the density, once you know the density you can figure out the composition.
My first thought was what if something has gotten into the fuel and made it thru the fuel filter and has caused the solenoid to get stuck. I tapped the sensor w/ a screw driver, cleared the engine code and it ran for about 20 minutes before the light came back on.
Eventually I bought some inexpensive fuel system cleaner and added it to the tank and ran that thru (that was really just my 25 mile trip home from work). After letting it sit for the night I went out, cleared the codes and drive for a while. It eventually came back on. Finally I thought what if the computer has some sort of memory that I am unable to clear. I disconnected the battery and forced the engine to relearn everything.
Thus far the light has not come back on. My best guess is that the solenoid was in fact stuck and between the tapping and cleaner I was able to flush out whatever was gunking it up.
Hopefully, that helps others out there who are either currently trying to fix this problem or who will face this problem in the future.  

shawnee99 shawnee99
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 02/07
Posted: 02/08/07
01:42 PM

Hi, I hope you have some advice, or help for me. I ahve a 2000 ranger with flex fuel, that has been down for 2 months now, with a problem. I have the code of PO-0176 that comes up also. I know this part cost about $500-$600. I cannot afford this much. I can only drive the vehicle for about 25-30 miles, then I disconnect the battery terminal,and reset the computer. I cannot use this vehicle to go on the highway, it is not safe.The motor will just stop, it gets no fuel,and you roll to a stop.The first time this happened, I was in Canada, and I had to have it towed back into the States.This cost me $250.00. Not good, since it wasn't even fixed. I have been told that it maybe my oxygen sensors? I am at a lost to what to do next. If I was able to afford to take to a Ford dealer, I would. Unfortunetly,I can't. Any ideas, Please help me. Shawnee  

na1led na1led
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 03/07
Posted: 03/15/07
08:04 PM

I have the same problem with my Mazda B3000 pickup. I spent over $600 with mechanics trying to figure out my problem, this included the dealership. They still didn't fix the problem but now I get this fuel Composition Sensor fault code and my truck won't start. I can almost get it started for a second but then stalls. It happend twice right after fueling up at a Getty Station. I will never buy Getty gas again, never had problems with mobile gas. Now I don't know what to do since my truck still won't start and the mechanic is at a loss. I will never get another flex fuel vehicle again.  

fordsucks fordsucks
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 10/28/07
05:30 PM

i have a 2000 ford ranger and have had same trouble with it cutting out and not wanting to run. after getting it towed by aaa to the garage the mechanic ran up a bill of 194.00 just to find that the flex fuel sensor is bad.the cost of this sensor i was told was 700.00,and to fix the rest of the problems with this vehicle(upper and lower ball joints and two tires so it will pass inspection)a total of 1600.00 for a vehicle that has 197,000 miles? wrong ansewer! ford should fix the sensor! as for me im selling it or taking it to the metal recyclers at least i will get my 194.00 $ back from having the mechanic find out what was wrong with it.i wont own another ford!  

bud0810 bud0810
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 01/08
Posted: 01/06/08
11:49 PM

i hope you fix your truck but if it helps you i just bought a comp. sensor form a junk yard for $10.00  

mketchme08 mketchme08
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 06/08
Posted: 06/09/08
08:40 PM

i have  the same problem which blew the  engine  the sensor was makig it pump way to much fuel and gas washed the engine so it cost me 12 hundred to have a motor put in and  now is running the same as it was the scan tool does read flex fuelim gona try ur method i hope it works thank for the ideas  

tsweet008 tsweet008
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 08/08
Posted: 08/21/08
10:43 AM

There is a company selling flex fuel bypass sensors on ebay for $150.  I guess you just unplug the flex fuel sensor and plug in the box.  It doesn't work with E85, only 87 to 91 octane fuels.  The company is TandSelectronics and they are calling the bypass unit the Flex Fuel Replicator  

ortiz865 ortiz865
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/07/08
06:42 PM

Hey arent you the same guy who is selling those replicators on ebay???? How come you are saying here that it wont work on E85 but on the ebay page you dont say anything about that???? Im asking because i just bought one of those replicators but i did it before i read this....Good thing it says i can return it if im not satisfied...  

J_Alex J_Alex
New User | Posts: 9 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 09/08/08
03:50 PM

There is a car that runs on hydrogen and it is a car gets 72 mpg  

sethtann sethtann
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 10/09
Posted: 10/02/09
12:16 PM

This is the problem report.  Error code P0176 is what is on the read out.  Instructions and all else below.

TSB
01-5-2 DRIVEABILITY - ROUGH IDLE - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS) P0500, P0501, P0503, P1721, P0176, OR P1000 STORED IN MEMORY - WATER INTRUSION AT CONNECTOR C309 OR C340 UNDER DRIVER'S SEAT - VEHICLES PRODUCED BEFORE 1/2/2001
ELECTRICAL - ANTI-LOCK BRAKE (ABS) LAMP ILLUMINATED - DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) C1230 OR CODES 9 OR 16 STORED IN MEMORY - WATER INTRUSION AT CONNECTOR C309 OR C340 UNDER DRIVER'S SEAT - VEHICLES PRODUCED BEFORE 1/2/2001
ELECTRICAL - SPEEDOMETER - INOPERATIVE OR ERRATIC OPERATION - WATER INTRUSION AT CONNECTOR C309 OR C340 UNDER DRIVER'S SEAT - VEHICLES PRODUCED BEFORE 1/2/2001
TRANSMISSION - 4R44E - ROUGH/HARSH OR DELAYED UPSHIFT - WATER INTRUSION AT CONNECTOR C309 OR C340 UNDER DRIVER'S SEAT - VEHICLES PRODUCED BEFORE 1/2/2001

Publication Date: MARCH 2, 2001

FORD: 2000-2001 RANGER

ISSUE:
Some vehicles may exhibit a rough idle, Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) warning lamp illumination, inoperative or erratic speedometer, Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) P0500, P0501, P0503, P1721, P0176, P1000, ABS DTC 9, RABS DTC 16, or a delayed or harsh shifting automatic transmission. This may be caused by water intrusion at connector C309 (2000 model year) or C340 (2001 model year) under the driver's seat.

ACTION:
Inspect affected connectors; clean or replace connector pins as necessary. Install new sleeve and boot assembly over -14401- connector (interior). Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Verify water intrusion in connector C309 for 2000 model year or C340 for 2001 model year applications by removing bottom half (male) connector located on -14405- wire harness assembly under driver's seat, outside, beneath vehicle's cab. If water is present or pins are damaged, remove connector sleeve and perform the following:

INSIDE CAB
Remove driver's seat
Remove driver's door scuff plate
Peel carpet or vinyl lining back to gain access to top portion of connector C309F (for 2000 model year) or C340F (for 2001 model year)
F = Female Side Of Connector
Remove connector from floor pan by depressing locking tabs on side of connector
Remove cap from back of connector to gain access to the pins
Remove red locking wedge from face of connector
Remove each pin individually and clean accordingly
NOTE: IF PINS ARE DAMAGED BEYOND THE ABILITY TO CLEAN, OBTAIN NEW PINS FOR REPAIR. ALL PINS WILL REQUIRE SOLDERING TO WIRE FOR MORE ROBUST CONNECTION. REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:


F67Z-14487-AA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or E6DZ-14487-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6DZ-14487-BA replacing gold/brass finish pins (2.8mm).

When all pins are cleaned or replaced, install new Cap (1L5Z-14A541-AA) over existing connector 14A464
Insert all pins through new Rubber Boot (1L5Z-14A099-AA)
Install pins into existing connector (refer to the appropriate Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) for correct pin positions)
Install existing red locking wedge and seat rubber boot to new cap
Insert connector into sheet metal (floor pan area)
OUTSIDE CAB UNDERNEATH VEHICLE/DRIVER'S SIDE
Remove cap from back of connector C309M (2000 model year) or C340M (2001 model year)
M = Male Side Of Connector
Remove white locking wedge from face of connector
Remove each pin individually, clean accordingly, and re-insert into correct cavity of lower connector 14A624 (refer to EVTM for correct pin position)
NOTE: IF PINS ARE DAMAGED BEYOND THE ABILITY TO CLEAN, OBTAIN NEW PINS FOR REPAIR. ALL PINS WILL REQUIRE SOLDERING TO WIRE FOR MORE ROBUST CONNECTION. REFERENCE APPROPRIATE PINS:


E7EB-14461-BA replacing silver finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6TZ-14461-AA replacing gold/brass finish pins (1.6mm) and/or F6DZ-14461-CA replacing silver finish pins (2.8mm) and/or E5DZ-14461-A replacing silver finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 and 64)

Install existing white locking wedge and reseat existing cap to back of connector C309M (2000 model year) or C340M (2001 model year)
Apply dielectric grease sparingly to all pins
Slide sleeve over upper connector and lock-in place
Slide lower connector over sleeve and secure with bolt in connector - torque bolt to 4.8 ±0.8 N-m (42.5 ±7 lb-in)
After connector has been reinstalled, verify concern has been eliminated. Reinstall carpet or vinyl lining, door scuff plate, and driver's seat.

PART NUMBER PART NAME
1L5Z-14A099-AA Rubber Connector Boot
1L5Z-14A541-AA Plastic Connector Cap
F67Z-14487-AA Female Side - Silver Finish Pins (1.6mm)
E6DZ-14487-AA Female Side - Gold/Brass Finish Pins (1.6mm)
F6DZ-14487-BA Female Side - Gold/Brass Finish Pins (2.8mm)
E7EB-14461-BA Male Side - Silver Finish Pins (1.6mm)
F6TZ-14461-AA Male Side - Gold/Brass Finish Pins (1.6mm)
F6DZ-14461-CA Male Side - Silver Finish Pins (2.8mm)
E5DZ-14461-A Male Side - Silver Finish (1.6mm Circuits 52 And 64)




Read more: http://www.justanswer.com/questions/kfvs-2000-ford-ranger-kicking-trouble##ixzz0So6tIVaM  

mike7509 mike7509
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 01/10
Posted: 01/28/10
07:13 PM

the po176 is a flex fuel malfunction the only way i know to fix it is what a product called a flex fuel repicator from t&s eletironics.will clear code and you can get remove the ome flex fuel sensor  

kevinm1730. kevinm1730.
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 03/10
Posted: 03/12/10
02:00 PM

I had same problem and was given a sensor from a wrecked ranger but the fuel lines were not attached how did you attach yours? did you used clamps?  

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