Automotive Forums  Where Car Enthusiasts Go to Discuss Cars Online

hi,      
i'm new here,      
can you tell me about this forum?
 

I have a 1976 ford 150 , 360 , engine 4-wheel drive. I just replaced the front tires . thinking it was the reason the front end was shaking? I can fix whats wrong with it , once i know what it is i have to fix. thanks for any help ?  

a few things.... i just went though this on a family members F250... 70.. 360.. 4 speed...


do you have a friend to help you????

with the hood open...   have the friend sit in the drivers seat and rock the steering wheel back and forth.. just to the limit of where the tires start to move..

you should be looking first at the coupling joint where the steering shaft connects to the rubber disc and then the input shaft of the steering box... this is where my families truck had the problem..  the splines inside the steering coupling had stripped slightly and had backed off the input shaft..  it finally came loose... at least she was not driving fast and was able to stop...

look at the various parts .. while the steering wheel is being rocked..   does one part move before the next part moves...


i have had the steering boxes need adjusting.. or replacing...

i have had way too many steering links go bad.. where the tie rod ends become slack...  allowing the stud to move back and forth inside the tie rod end...

i have also had the lower I beam brackets where they are riveted to the cross member come loose...   this is something that you will have to look at closely...   perhaps even place your hand on the 2 layers.. again while somebody works the steering wheel back and forth even farther...   usually the truck owner may complain of squeaks when  steering... sometimes not...

i have found the rivets rocking like trees in a strong wind when the steering is rocked back and forth...

its totally important to use flanged grade 8 nuts and bolts to replace the rivets after you have drilled the center of the rivet out then shear the head off...   you will want to examine the alignment of the various parts... and not take out more than one or two without inserting a bolt and nut...  there is a tremendous pressure on the suspension brackets.. with the wheels on the ground or off the ground..

there are at least a dozen truck magazines on this site.. some of them will cover this...

log in... click on my user name...  you will see some of them listed...    you can also send me a Private message... with your direct email address... or a phone number for me to call you about how to check this...




######################  check with the suspension jacked up for loose king pin bushings...






 

oops... i just noticed you have a 4x4..




##################




#################




##############

the images are bigger than you can view....  open each one in a new window..  

My bumper cover has a problem. The first hinge on the left side of the bumper cover is damaged, therefore it will not connect to the bumper, so while driving to this one small hinge on this 2004 Mazda 3 the other hinger start to disconnect, I connect again, but they keep falling off. How could I repair this by myself? Super glue?  

i really don't quite understand what you are talking about for hinges...

this picture i am story to say does not show the hardware required to hang the front bumper..



front and rear bumper covers are flexible mounted..   as the sun expands them.. and the shade causes them to contract...  there is also a LOT of air pressure on and behind them when driving..

some body shops have great techs who know just how to attach bumpers that have pulled loose..

some places can repair the bumper cover..  and repaint it to match the car..

sometimes its cheeper to replace the bumper cover..


this all depends on how its broken or damaged..  i don't do a lot of body work so i am not familiar with how to attach these...   got photos???   post them to photobucket.. post the img links here..  

Welcome to the new car forum http://motor-forums.ru/
We will be grateful to you if you share your knowledge and experience  

thanks  

i want to get to the segment discussing "water leak" to front floor of vehicle.  help, please

 

you can start a new thread by logging in..     then pulling down the forums bar menu to select which forum to post in.. release and click go... then click the start a new thread button..

this please post your question in one section only was to ask people not to post the same question in several different forum sections...  as they all show up in the active posts ...  thats where most people read up on what's current..


you can if this is all you can get to.. post your question here..  if you put in enough info..  i or somebody might be able to answer it..  

i have a 87s10 truck the break lights works but when u trun the head lights on the brake lights and trun signal dont work how do i fix it thank u  

you Probably have a BAD ground wire between

the Battery and the  body  and also  between the engine cylinder head.. (usually the rear of the head) and the body..



lets start with the simple and cheep stuff...

do you have a digital volt meter... if you don't.. they can be had for 7 bucks to 25 bucks..

a lot of parts stores have these from innova for about 16 bucks..



harbor freight stores have these for about 20 bucks



either will last you for decades..


next.... i would take a digital volt meter...

set it to 20 volts DC scale...

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected.

if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...

this test takes about 2 minutes...

post your results by test number..

if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...

you have a bad ground between those parts..



why do this test....   bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks...

why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...  if you loose a ground.. or it becomes intermittent..  you won't have any power for that circuit...  just like a table light when the plug falls part way out of the wall...  the light will go out..

also i have fixed a LOT of cars lately with that  2 minute test... some hot water and a stainless steel wire toothbrush ...

finding the ground connections.. removing them from where they are bolted down after counting how many wires are on each one..   wire brushing both sides of the ring terminals...   wire brushing the back side of the nut.. wire brushing the mounting pad...  washing with HOT water..  

putting them back on.. and counting to verify the number of wires is the same...

the verifying with the same test again...  

Thanks to everyone in this thread, I got what I was looking for.