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98' Polo Oil Pressure Light Problem

 
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dewey2k dewey2k
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 01/07
Posted: 01/28/07
06:40 AM

Hi,

The car is a 98 Polo with 130,000 miles on the clock.

I have a puzzling problem. One day all of a sudden the oil pressure light on the dash started flashing and buzzing at me. I got the car home and waited until the next morning to check the oil levels when the car was cold. After checking them I found there was more than enough oil in the engine. I spoke to someone who advised me to change the Oil Pressure Switch which I have also done but still no joy turning out the light. I've had someone check the electics to to the light and they all seem fine also. One other thing I have noticed is the oil light comes on as soon as I turn the key but before I even start the engine the light goes out again. Most other cars I've had the oil light stays on with the battery light until the engine is started. Then as soon as I touch the gas the light starts flashing again.

Has anyone had this problems before?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
David  

saty42 saty42
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 02/07
Posted: 02/09/07
04:14 AM

hi,

i drive a LTD polo 98 S with 50000 on the clock.

Had it serviced and it shows the flashing service oil light.. all the time i start the car...but eventually goes once the car is driven.

The resolution here is cleaning where the sump is...will cost upto £80-90... from a reputable garage....

I also had the red oil light on the dash board blinking this morning... then it went off... so i have a simliar problem also... but if i find any ideas i will post. Like wise if anybody knows about the blinking oil cannister light (red) i would be grateful.

The vw's polo range are good cars until electric problems start...:-(

come on Vw polo drivers....  

Keyot31 Keyot31
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 04/07
Posted: 04/10/07
04:55 AM

Hi Guys,

I also drive a VW polo a little older than yours but just recently I have encountered the same problem I know there is enough oil in the engine but the light and buzer keep comming on, until the engine reaches running temp. then it seems ok. In response to the light going out at ignition, mine stays on until the car is started and goes out with the battery light, if there is anybody out there with a solution I would realy be very greatful

Thanks

Martin  

i_am_not_a_mechanic i_am_not_a_mechanic
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 10/21/07
08:26 AM

Hello,

With only 28K miles and serviced regularly, this problem with the red oil light showing and a beeping sound stopped me half way on my journey. I Couldnt see anything wrong with the oil level, called a reputable roadside service who when arrived could not make the red light appear. He looked around for leaks, disconnected and re-connected the oil pressure switch cable but the red light would not show up, baffled he suggested that the car be shown to a garage. Drove the car home and about three hours later.. when i decided to check for the light again, this time on starting the engine the red light and the beeping sound came on.

Bought a new oil switch (which didnt fit, as i had been supplied an incorrect one), but i decided to flush the engine oil and replace the oil filter and now i just cannot make the red light appear.. So the only thing i can think of is that garage which carried out the service may have used some cheap and inferior grade of engine oil as now the engine even sounds smoother.

Hope this helps you.
Paul.  

hawai50 hawai50
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 11/08
Posted: 11/12/08
10:58 AM

Hi there,
In reply to your question I have a 1992 vw polo and the oil light flashing over 2000 revs happened to me. Although all of my levels were fine, the light was flashing. The RAC said it was the pump. After getting it back to my dad (a mechanic) he decided that there was nothing wrong with the pump as when the rac guy put a pressure tester on, it was holding pressure for about 1-2 mins. The problem was THE CAR NEEDED AN OIL CHANGE. after a double flushing and fresh oil everything is fine. I hope this helps  

thebigpicture thebigpicture
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 03/09
Posted: 03/06/09
01:14 AM

I recently did a long overdue oil change on a 99 polo 1.4 8v Polo. It has done 57,000. The rocker cover was so black and groggy inside I decided to run a can of engine cleaner in the oil before the change as the instructions. New filter, new oil, started it and it ran lovely.......for about 5 minutes. Then the oil light came on. I stopped the car checking I wasn't gushing oil out of the filter etc checked oil levels and all was fine. Started it up again and great the light had gone out.

3 minutes later it was back on. Another check of levers and restarted. Light out. Faulty sender I thought. Bit of grit etc in it from the oil flush. I'll give it a bit of a run I. Oil light on again, I turned the ignition off and the oil light was off again, came on again after a few minutes. Humm now what was that. It sounded and felt like I was starting to miss on one cylinder. Stopped again. Tappets sounded a bit noisy! Humm. Could this be because all the gunk had been cleaned out and they really need adjusting I thought?

I was 3 miles from home. Oil light was off again. I'll go slow, well as slow as you can on the A3! 40mph? Oil light back on and not going off and the tappets were getting much noisier! Pulled off the A3 to park up and walk home to prevent any more damage to the engine. Then it dawned on me what had happened. Dodgy sender? No. Here is what is going on......

The engine cleaner and new oil had flushed all the sludge and gunk south into the sump where the oil pump and gauze filter is. Only so much gunk comes out with the oil but the thick stuff gets clogged in the oil pump filter! which is in the sump. The flush and new oil had done a great job in cleaning the engine but dumped all the gunk in the sump which had truly gunked up the pump filter. So when the engine stopped oil seeped through all the gunk to the oil pump slowly giving temporary oil pressure so light goes out then as the engine runs the oil pump is starved of oil due to all the gunk in gauze filter. Solution remove sump clean oil pump gauze filter, another oil and filter change and you should be back on the road.

Don't do as I did and think to yourself new oil, levels are good must be the sender. If you get an oil warning light after an oil change you have probably filled the oil pump with sludge. Stop the car immediately before you do as I did and damage the cylinder head.

Had I taken it to a garage for an oil change re previous links I might have though dodgy oil etc etc and been blaming them but it would not be there fault. I guess the problem is with cars like this we run and run them and neglect regular oil changes so the sludge builds up so badly up then when we do get round to it is so bad that the sludge all gets stuck in the oil pump filter in the sump. Next time you change your oil it might be worth whipping off the sump too and giving the sump and filter and pump area a good clean up too.

Anyone Nr SW London got a good 1.4 8v cylider head going free? Thanks  

GolfMike GolfMike
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/13/14
04:01 PM

I've got a Golf mk2 which I flush every oil change and I've found it runs great. Never had the oil light flash come on. Car has one over 141000 miles without any weird engine noises.

If you read a lot of the engine flush instructions (I use Wynns engine flush); you're meant to add it to the old oil rather than the replacement (new) oil. From what I can see it's main ingrediants is Kerosene and it's purpose is to thin the oil to add circulation when draining it. According to the instructions, you're meant to run it for 20 minutes with a maximum revs of 2000RPM. After that, remove the drain plug and drain into either an oil drain can or suitably sized container sitting directly under the drain plug location. Remove the old oil filter with suitable tool (they don't cost a lot and you can normally buy them with your oil and oil filter). Don't let the oil cool; do this when engine is hot as you want to remove as much of the old oil as possible and heat helps it circulate. I'd also advise you do this when car is parked in your drive way and do not to put the engine under any kind of load (i.e. have the car in neutral and hold the revs at 2000 RPM when initially warming the engine).

You can invest in a tool which can grip the old oil filter (as it will be very warm and you will burn yourself removing it otherwise). When you've done this; replace the oil filter, either fit a new drain bolt with cooper washer or reuse the old one and top up the oil to just under maximum (you can put too much oil in as well as too little). DO NOT START THE ENGINE YET!. You need to remove the either the HT leads or the main HT lead to the distributor (if you still have one) so the car can only turn over without actually starting. Turn the key on the dash to turn over the engine watching the oil light on the dash (you need to build oil pressure as you currently have little to none). The oil light will stay on until you build oil pressure. Once you have oil pressure (the light will go out). At this point reconnect the HT leads you disconnected earlier and start the engine. It should start without oil light flashing and there shouldn't be any odd out of sync knocking noises.

Many VW cars (and other manufacturers for that matter) have the oil light will show on the dash until you start the engine. When you start the engine it should go out almost straight away. If not, turn the engine off and seek help from either a workshop manual or expert.

If the engine light ever comes on; pull over as quick as you can and stop the engine to minimise damage to your engine (as you're either have too high or too low oil pressure). Oil pressure is likely to be low.

The purposes of oil is mainly to lubricate the engine components but it also aids cooling (removing heat from friction) and removes debris back into the oil sump or oil filter. If you abuse your oil changes, it turns to sludge (known in the motoring trade as the black death/deth or treakle which doesn't flow very well if at all). Oil needs to circulate through not only the crank journals but also your cam shaft journals in the crank case through tiny little passenge ways). If you don't regularly replace your oil, you risk this not moving properly through the engine and your car will seize if it get severe enough (you'll be living on borrowed time!).

Also don't use cheap oil and don't abuse service intervals (try and do it like 6-7 thousand miles or as near to it as you can). I run Mobil Supra 2000 and it's worth every penny. Also use a decent oil filter (I use Mann); you don't want this to burst or leak. Also when replacing the oil filter, put a little bit of oil on your finger and wipe it on the rubber matting. This is to allow it to be snug between the engine casing and the oil filter without friction build up on the rubber mating surface (you want a firm seal here as this will be under high pressure oil). Use the tool you used to remove the oil filter earlier to do this back up.

Hopefully this helps someone avoid the black deth

Mike  

GolfMike GolfMike
New User | Posts: 2 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/13/14
04:01 PM

I've got a Golf mk2 which I flush every oil change and I've found it runs great. Never had the oil light flash come on. Car has one over 141000 miles without any weird engine noises.

If you read a lot of the engine flush instructions (I use Wynns engine flush); you're meant to add it to the old oil rather than the replacement (new) oil. From what I can see it's main ingrediants is Kerosene and it's purpose is to thin the oil to add circulation when draining it. According to the instructions, you're meant to run it for 20 minutes with a maximum revs of 2000RPM. After that, remove the drain plug and drain into either an oil drain can or suitably sized container sitting directly under the drain plug location. Remove the old oil filter with suitable tool (they don't cost a lot and you can normally buy them with your oil and oil filter). Don't let the oil cool; do this when engine is hot as you want to remove as much of the old oil as possible and heat helps it circulate. I'd also advise you do this when car is parked in your drive way and do not to put the engine under any kind of load (i.e. have the car in neutral and hold the revs at 2000 RPM when initially warming the engine).

You can invest in a tool which can grip the old oil filter (as it will be very warm and you will burn yourself removing it otherwise). When you've done this; replace the oil filter, either fit a new drain bolt with cooper washer or reuse the old one and top up the oil to just under maximum (you can put too much oil in as well as too little). DO NOT START THE ENGINE YET!. You need to remove the either the HT leads or the main HT lead to the distributor (if you still have one) so the car can only turn over without actually starting. Turn the key on the dash to turn over the engine watching the oil light on the dash (you need to build oil pressure as you currently have little to none). The oil light will stay on until you build oil pressure. Once you have oil pressure (the light will go out). At this point reconnect the HT leads you disconnected earlier and start the engine. It should start without oil light flashing and there shouldn't be any odd out of sync knocking noises.

Many VW cars (and other manufacturers for that matter) have the oil light will show on the dash until you start the engine. When you start the engine it should go out almost straight away. If not, turn the engine off and seek help from either a workshop manual or expert.

If the engine light ever comes on; pull over as quick as you can and stop the engine to minimise damage to your engine (as you're either have too high or too low oil pressure). Oil pressure is likely to be low.

The purposes of oil is mainly to lubricate the engine components but it also aids cooling (removing heat from friction) and removes debris back into the oil sump or oil filter. If you abuse your oil changes, it turns to sludge (known in the motoring trade as the black death/deth or treakle which doesn't flow very well if at all). Oil needs to circulate through not only the crank journals but also your cam shaft journals in the crank case through tiny little passenge ways). If you don't regularly replace your oil, you risk this not moving properly through the engine and your car will seize if it get severe enough (you'll be living on borrowed time!).

Also don't use cheap oil and don't abuse service intervals (try and do it like 6-7 thousand miles or as near to it as you can). I run Mobil Supra 2000 and it's worth every penny. Also use a decent oil filter (I use Mann); you don't want this to burst or leak. Also when replacing the oil filter, put a little bit of oil on your finger and wipe it on the rubber matting. This is to allow it to be snug between the engine casing and the oil filter without friction build up on the rubber mating surface (you want a firm seal here as this will be under high pressure oil). Use the tool you used to remove the oil filter earlier to do this back up.

Hopefully this helps someone avoid the black deth

Mike  

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