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1992 Honda Accord LX with starting problems

 
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wosbaby wosbaby
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 11/20/06
05:06 AM

I've been reading about the various starting problems with the Honda Accord, associated with either the main relay or distributor.  I've got a kicker variation of the same problem:
I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX, automatic, which has been in the shop now for over a month with a starting problem.  It is turning over, but will not crank.  My mechanic has replaced everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, that causes spark, but the car still is not getting any spark.
We've put on it a new distributor, new computer, new main relay, new o2 sensor, new temp sensor, new starter, new alternator, new plugs and wires, etc.....like I said, EVERYTHING that might cause spark!
The motor is getting fuel, and anything else it needs, except spark.
Can anyone help with this problem???  I'm desperate!!!!!
Thanks!  

mistah_sly mistah_sly
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 11/28/06
10:04 AM

hey man i've been having the same problem with my 92 accord ex. the problem was the head gasket was kracked and the antifreeze was comming out of the muffler. when you took off you would see a lot of white smoke in back of you. i changed the head gasket thermostat new plugs so when im done putting everyting back on and tried to start the car it wont start. This is my first car and i would really love to no if you found out what the problem was with yours, or if anyone can help me.  

fonzee fonzee
New User | Posts: 5 | Joined: 11/06
Posted: 11/29/06
07:58 AM

try posting question

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/index.php  

Rvelazquez125 Rvelazquez125
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 11/08
Posted: 11/03/08
12:14 PM

I have a honda accord lx 1992, there are no sparks coming out my spark plugs, I changed the engintion coil hoping that that would resolve the problem but the car still does not start. Please help.  

ccssitkathy ccssitkathy
New User | Posts: 4 | Joined: 11/08
Posted: 11/30/08
07:54 PM

Hello Sir .maybe you can buy a a diagnostic tools to testing it for more clearly .
for example : HONDA GNA600 and Honda diagnostic System kit
we aremain engaged in manufacture and sales for car diagnostic tools .if you have any interested in our this product .you can frist go browsed our website : http://www.reliablediag.com
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also can add my MSN: kathy.hongying@hotmail.com  

buyadvice buyadvice
New User | Posts: 35 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 12/02/08
12:30 PM

Here's a cheap thing you can do to see if it's your battery. Take your power cables, connect your battery in another car, and try to start your car.  
_______________________________
http://blog.buyingadvice.com/

Wenis Wenis
User | Posts: 132 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 12/02/08
06:02 PM

I can't believe it, you better be sleeping with this mechanic (married)  Grin

I can't imagine the money you've spent by just throwing parts at it. Things need to be checked, grounds, power supplies, is the computer powering up (checked easily by looking for a lit check engine light on the dash)

There's a simple reason, it needs to be diagnosed properly. At first I figured the distributor was the problem, you said it's been replaced, that don't mean the used one or new for that matter was any good though. it's a very common problem, If it's used parts that are being installed try another distributor. Um, after you make sure the check engine light comes on, turn key on, don't turn it over, if the light doesn't come on the computer isn't being power up, BOOM your trail to follow.

Good Luck Crazy  

queenjuno queenjuno
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/22/12
08:01 PM

Hi I soooo appreciate this post & am hoping you can further help me. I was having problems with my car stayin on. As u mentioned I believe it's due to the used distributor that I purchased. I have been havin problems with my radiator for sum time now. I replaced it & it still was over heating & leaking. I was told it wasn't the thermostat because my heat still works. I had a pressure test done twice & they couldnt find a leak. Yet every morning there's antifreeze all over the ground. I'm constantly refilling the antifreeze. Mechanics have suggested a new computer & maybe new wires. I'm tired of playing the guessing game with my $ Confused  & would like to know what's really wrong. Please help if you can  Grin  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/22/12
08:50 PM

I was having problems with my car stayin on

i am taking that this means the engine is stalling after you get it started...  not continuing to run when you try to shut it off..



I have been havin problems with my radiator for sum time now. I replaced it & it still was over heating & leaking. I was told it wasn't the thermostat because my heat still works. I had a pressure test done twice & they couldnt find a leak. Yet every morning there's antifreeze all over the ground.


i have a test i use on cars to find leaking head gaskets and a LOT of those will have leaking head gaskets...
i am taking that you are working with a 1992 honda accord LX...  with a 4 cylinder engine..

please post the year make and model along with which engine if different ...

its basicly a cylinder leak down test.. and those work also.. but cylinder leak down testers have a restrictor in the end of the hose to limit the amount of air introduced into the cylinder.. i use a compression tester hose with the valve core removed..

looking for changes in the cooling system level when i apply air to the cylinders...  if i find changes or bubbles in the cooling system.. i know i have found a blown head gasket. or cracked head..

a radiator pressure test is just one test to do..

what about the water pump... those can leak sometimes and not others..  

queenjuno queenjuno
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/23/12
04:15 AM

The car would idle n shut off after I started it & wen I stopped @ traffic lights & stuff. You are correct about the yr make n model. It was drivin me crazy so I stoppd by a shop @ the gas station. The mechanic told me it was my converter n @ this point my car was a money pit n I need to move on. Nice to know but things aren't that simple. I need this car to hold on a couple more months. He tightened a nut on it & told me that would hold me over for awhile. Are there any big named shops that can help me? What do I ask for a diagnostic test? I've been to several shops & they all seem to get pretty annoyed that I'm back again *like Johnny from The Shining*!!! I don't have a choice. lemme know please  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/23/12
06:40 AM

I've been to several shops & they all seem to get pretty annoyed that I'm back again *like Johnny from The Shining*!!

thats great...  i have had that look on my face when customers with their cars on their last legs have driven in the shops i have worked at.

you have named a BUNCH of different problems...     how mechanical are you?????

idle down and stall could be a dirty throttle body and dirty idle air control valve..

both are not that hard to remove and clean.. as long as you don't get cleaner spray into the electronic parts...

item 6 is the throttle body.. those can sometimes be cleaned in place.. with spray cleaner on a shop rag and while holding the throttle open.. wipe the carbon off the throat where the throttle blade closes.  there has to be air bypassing the throttle blade.. a tiny amount..

item 14 is the idle air control .. and that needs to be removed and cleaned..  this is the usual cause of the idle problems as the carbon that can build up can cause it to stick in an improper position..

SM23E0100C  

queenjuno queenjuno
New User | Posts: 3 | Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/23/12
06:49 AM

Lol I'm not that mechanical @ all. & I apologize it was the distributor I needed not a converter. I have a bunch of mechanics in my family so I have sum knowledge of cars. Unfortunately they aren't reliable & often times I google things tryin to fix myself. I can get a new distributor thats no problem. The overheating & no leak found is my main concern. It's a mystery that seems to baffle everyone I've gone to.  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/23/12
06:56 AM

cleaning the idle air control valve needs a few special instructions.. as they don't look like they will come apart..


you can see the openings in the above image.. the computer changes the voltage to this.. that creates a changeable magnetic field.. changing the amount of valve opening..  this is where having a big tool box full of tools and equipment comes in handy..   looking at this valve.. i would probably just clean the throttle body bore...


any big named shops??????  i don't think so..  most are equipped for quick turn over.. and making tremendous amounts of money to pay for the advertising to gather more customers..



autozone.com does offer a lot of free repair info ... if you join and log in at the upper right corner of their web page...
then select your car.. and click on the repair info link or tab..

coolant leaks are the next up....  you need to identify where its coming from...  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/23/12
07:10 AM

as for your catalytic converter...

wow.. i just checked the price at az..   looks like they can be had anywhere but california.. for under 140 bucks if you still have a bolt in version..  there are 13" and 14" length versions..



if you had some kind of vacuum gauge.. you could attach that to a vacuum port on the intake to measure manifold vacuum..   this is vacuum at idle speed.   slowly raising the engine speed.. the vacuum should not decrease...   if it drops.. you could have a blocked exhaust  

waynep7122 waynep7122
Addict | Posts: 4561 | Joined: 08/09
Posted: 03/23/12
07:17 AM

1990-95 FOUR CYLINDER ACCORD AND 1992-95 PRELUDE
See Figures 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12

On 1990-95 Accord (except V-6) and 1992-95 Prelude, the codes are read from the check engine light after the two-wire service connector has been jumpered. On Accords, the service connector is under the dash on the passenger side. On Preludes, it is located behind the center console. Codes 1 through 9 are indicated by a series of short flashes; two-digit codes use a long flash for the first digit followed by the appropriate number of short flashes. For example, Code 14 would be indicated by 1 long flash followed by 4 short flashes. Codes are separated by a pause between displays. Multiple codes are transmitted in an alternating pattern. For example, a code 3 and 14 would be displayed as 3 short flashes (for Code 3) followed by the separator pause, then 1 long flash and 4 short flashes (for Code 14).


0900C1528005f5b0

0900C1528005f5b1


Use a jumper wire to connect the two terminals of the service connector together.
Turn the ignition switch ON ; the check engine light will display any stored codes by rhythmic flashing.

In the event that a code is encountered which is not on the chart, re-count the number of flashes. If the code is truly wrong, it will be necessary to swap the ECU for a known-good unit and recheck. Since this can be expensive, you may wish to bring the car to a reputable repair facility if no other cause of the failure can be found. This may save you the expense of purchasing an unnecessary part.

If no codes are displayed but a driveablity problem exits, testing of the system individual components is necessary to find the problem. If codes are displayed, follow the appropriate troubleshooting chart in this section.


0900C1528005f5b3  

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