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g35903
New User
| Posts: 2
| Joined: 08/11
Posted: 08/09/11 11:18 AM
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Had the same problem with my 2003 G35 sedan, how to replace the Bose radio at the tune of $450.00 +, neither Bose, Infiniti or the dealership would cut me a break on this known, existing, issue with this year/make. I like the car, have not had any other major issues with it, however, because of this lack of "customer service" I will not be buying any more Infinitis' once I get rid of this one.
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Posted: 10/27/11 03:20 PM
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Here is a great video that walks you through how to troubleshoot a lot of the problems with the battery / stereo / cd changer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ypwxl4437d0
I wonder if these guys are the ones the dealers are sending the radios to when they ship them out to FL to get them fixed!!! I'm considering skipping the dealer and going directly to these guys. Click through and check out their website - they seem like they know their stuff:
carstereohelp.com
My G35 battery is dieing every couple of days. I've replaced the battery and check the alternator. I am about the take it in to the dealer. Any tips on how not to get robbed by their repair team??
Email me at riggs20009 (at) gmail.com and put "G35" in the subject line with any tips or advice!!
Riggs
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jansenet
New User
| Posts: 1
| Joined: 12/11
Posted: 12/22/11 09:20 AM
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What I did was put a 30A relay (plenty beefy, since the fuse between the battery/amp is only 15A) inline to the power that goes to the amp. The smaller 8 pin connector that connects to the amp has a thicker yellow wire with a red stripe, that is constant power from the battery to the amp. On that connector, it's pin 11 (doesn't make sense to me, being that there aren't 11 pins, but thats how it's labelled in the manual). On that same connector, pin 27 is ground and is the same wire gauge as the yellow/red wire, so using a single pole single throw relay, you'd cut the yellow/red wire and connect them to pole 30 and 87 on the relay, and then connect pole 85 (splice) to ground (pin 27 - black wire), and then we just need to find an ignition hot wire to close the switch, allowing power to the amp when the car is on or on the ACC position. To do that, you can splice into pin 41 on the other wider connector, its a light blue wire with white dots on it, located one position over from the bottom right with the clip on top with the pin holes facing you. If there's any question, you can test it with a multimeter with the ignition on and off. Of even more help is all if the wiring diagrams (av.pdf) that are included with the shop manaual that you can download from the net - http://g35driver.com/forums/faq-diy/107032-sticky-all-2003-2006-g35-coupes-service-manual-pdf-format.html. Everything is pretty clearly spelled out as far as what's constant hot, ignition hot, which fuses are inline, etc.
So essentially we just disallow the constant power from the battery to the amp, until the ignition is in the ACC position, or the car is started. So far so good; no dead battery for me and at a cost of less than $10. I had the wiring/connectors/relay already sitting around in my garage, so it just cost me time. Either way, its easy, you don't have to run wires anywhere, and you don't have to forget to turn a switch off (as I've seen some others on here ***
Hope this helps someone.
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