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nickb2:
Why do you say the alternator....that makes no sense...please dont post *** the alternator was going out the it would have a battery light on or would not run after a jump start

Nick
ASE Master Auto Technician, L1

      I HAVE A 91 HONDA CBR600 I JUST BOUGHT USED.AND THE BATTERY KEEPS GOING DEAD,NOTHING IS BEING LEFT ON CABLES ARENT LOOSE. I BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY AND IT DONE THE SAME THING. SO I RETURNED THAT ONE AND GOT THE MOST EXPENSIVE BATTERY THEY GOT FOR THAT BIKE. AND IT DOES THE SAME THING.. CAN ANY ONE HELP ME?????  

first.... there are several motorcycle magazines on this site..  here are some CBR600 articles in them..

http://www.superstreetbike.com/sch/02/cbr600/articles/index.html?SearchSource=Group


with a fully charged battery...   do you have a test light.????  hook it between one of the battery terminals and the wire that was disconnected from it...   is the test light on????   if so., start pulling fuses one at a time until it turns off...


you can do the same thing with a digital volt meter if you have a 15, 20 or 25 amp DC scale...   it will work on the 10 AMP setting also..

battery positive post...        test light...........   positive battery cable..

battery negative post.. battery negative cable..


or...

battery positive post..   digital amp meter...   positive battery cable..

negative battery post .. negative battery cable..


it really does not matter which side you hook it to...

with everything off...  everything should be off..  i don't know much about motorcycle electronics...

there is a chance that somebody has pulled a battery cable with the engine running and damaged a alternator diode..  if its shorted .. it could be causing your discharge problem..

motorcycle batteries NEED a specific low amp charger...  if you hook them to a conventional charger.. you will burn the battery out ... at any setting over 1 amp DC..  

i have a 2000 chrysler sebring convertible 2.5 v6 and i just replaced the battery about a week ago. why would my vehicle be dead every morning??? nothing is left on overnight and it is getting really annoying because i turn the key and nothing happens its as if the car was off, no lights on the dash come on at all. its way too cold to be sitting outside jumping the car every morning. can someone help me please? thanks!  

jhigginson94:
i have a 2000 chrysler sebring convertible 2.5 v6 and i just replaced the battery about a week ago. why would my vehicle be dead every morning??? nothing is left on overnight and it is getting really annoying because i turn the key and nothing happens its as if the car was off, no lights on the dash come on at all. its way too cold to be sitting outside jumping the car every morning. can someone help me please? thanks!

this is going to take some testing.. and a few tools... ..   what it sounds like you have is a parasitic draw..    something that stays on when the key is off..

only problem..  your cars electrical system keeps some circuits active for 5 or 6 minutes after shut down...

first thing...   jump starting the car is not going to properly charge the battery enough..   and the alternator charges it to fast and will usually damage the battery...   do you own a 10 amp battery charger..  perhaps with a 2 amp setting???  

second .. do you own a digital volt meter???   one with a 15 or 20 AMP DC setting???  if not.. they are not expensive..  more to come on those..

third.. do you live near a harbor freight tools store???     they have the digital volt meters for 20 bucks and a fuse circuit load tester for 15..  that might make tracking this problem down easier..



there are two versions of this..     for different sized fuses..    basic.. unplug a fuse.. stick this meter into the fuse box where you remove the fuse from..  stick the fuse in the side of this meter.. so the circuit is complete..   start the engine.. let it run a minute..  shut it off and see if the amperage drops to 0.00...  like i said.. some circuits are powered for 5 minutes..



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first...  if the battery has enough voltage to start the engine..

start it.. let it run a minute..   shut it down..      with the key in the off position..  turn the key to the ON position without cranking the engine.. then off .. then on.. then off, then on.....

off...  ON..   off..  ON... off.   ON..   off.. ON..    the final position should be on..     at this point.. the odometer will start flashing codes if there are any...    they will have a letter and 4 number..   like a P0240..    write them all down and post them here..

you can turn the key off and start again if you missed some..

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now.. with a volt meter...   there are some voltage drop tests to do..  and this is complicated as your battery is DEEP down and hard to get to in that model..



a conventional voltage drop test is going to be hard in that car..

more to come  

***  i have just been reminded i have to be somewhere...

so this is a copy and paste.. and its going to be hard to follow these on your car as its hard to get at the battery...



lets start with the simple and cheep stuff...

do you have a digital volt meter... if you don't.. they can be had for 7 bucks to 25 bucks..

a lot of parts stores have these from innova for about 16 bucks..



harbor freight stores have these for about 20 bucks



either will last you for decades..


next.... i would take a digital volt meter...

set it to 20 volts DC scale...

start the engine and turn on the headlights..

1. test between the positive and the negative battery posts.  14.1 to 14.8 volts is expected.

2. test between the negative battery post and the engine block. 0.04 volts is expected..

3. test between the negative battery post and the body... 0.02 volts is expected..

4. test between the Engine block and the body..  0.02 volts is expected.

if you get 0.00 on the last 3 tests.. change the meter setting to 2 volts DC scale.. and retest.. the last 3...

this test takes about 2 minutes...

post your results by test number..

if you get more than the 0.04 or 0.02 volts on the display...

you have a bad ground between those parts..



why do this test....   bad grounds will stop any new car in its tracks...

why... electrons flow from Negative to positive...  if you loose a ground.. or it becomes intermittent..  you won't have any power for that circuit...  just like a table light when the plug falls part way out of the wall...  the light will go out..

also i have fixed a LOT of cars lately with that  2 minute test... some hot water and a stainless steel wire toothbrush ...

finding the ground connections.. removing them from where they are bolted down after counting how many wires are on each one..   wire brushing both sides of the ring terminals...   wire brushing the back side of the nut.. wire brushing the mounting pad...  washing with HOT water..  

putting them back on.. and counting to verify the number of wires is the same...

the verifying with the same test again...