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I have a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban and occassionally (every few months)when I go to start the vehicle it starts and cuts out immediately.  I'll let it sit for about 20 minutes or so and then when I go to start it...it starts!  I've also already changed the fuel filter.
I've read a recall regarding fuel pump problems with 2000+ Chev. Suburbans, but not 1999.  
Other than the occassional not starting, it runs fine.  Any ideas what could be the problem?
JLT  

JLT:
I have a 1999 Chevrolet Suburban and occassionally (every few months)when I go to start the vehicle it starts and cuts out immediately.  I'll let it sit for about 20 minutes or so and then when I go to start it...it starts!  I've also already changed the fuel filter.
I've read a recall regarding fuel pump problems with 2000+ Chev. Suburbans, but not 1999.  
Other than the occassional not starting, it runs fine.  Any ideas what could be the problem?
JLT

Hello JLT,

Has your problem been solved?  I don't have an answer but I can tell you what we've done to our truck which seems to have the same problem.  We have a 1998 SWB Z71 truck.  I realize there's a difference in year/body style, etc... but your problem sure sounds similar.  We took our truck to the dealership.  They didn't find problems with the fuel filter or pump but said the ignition/passlock systems were throwing codes so they replaced them both.  We already knew the security light would stay on sometimes.  But no luck, we're still having the problem (including security light sometimes) and now no codes are showing up.  Our problem seems to happen early in the morning - maybe moisture in the air is a contributor?.  Won't start, wait a little while and then it will.  It is VERY frustrating and seems to be getting worse.  We keep taking the truck back but of course the dealer can't reproduce the problem.  If you found an answer please share!!  We will do the same.  Thanks and good luck.  

My husband and I have a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it sounds like it's doing the same thing. We have replaced the fuel pump, fuel line, fuel tank, sensors (the entire fuel line), the computer, spark plugs, fuel cap (thinking it was ventilation), redid all the wiring, replaced the coils, and all this to no avail. It's not the catalytic converter (we have none) so no oxygen sensor problem, and there's no vacuum leak. We've spent more than this thing is worth trying to fix it. The problem is, it seems, is like it's run out of gas. When the car is cool it runs just fine but when it warms up we have problems and now it's backfiring. No bueno. ANYWAY... Since we've replaced EVERYTHING we can, we're thinking it may be as something small as the EGR valve. We're getting that replaced. As bad as it sounds for the fuel tank and such, the car seems to run much better with the fuel cap completely off. Problem isn't solved, but it helps a lot. Kinda dissappointing to hear the suburban is having the same problem because we're looking for a new vehicle and were looking at the 1999 Suburban. Anyway. Just know that these 2 vehicles aren't the only models so it has to be something they all have in common.  

I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, I have the same problem,I noticed the security light blinks my truck won't start. The same as you all I have to sit 15 to 30 minutes. Then it will start. I took it back to Stock Burgers where I bought it. They replaced the ignition sensor, my cost $450.00. 6 mos to a year later, it started doing it again. Again at my cost. Took it back they replaced the ignition sensor and the ignition switch. Yeah well, I have the same problem again, I can't keep putting $450.00 out each time this happens. I did get a problem report from Progressive Insurance company when I had them and this is on of 66 problems that can happen with this truck. It is under the Electrical system. Well I also had a problem with my interior lights staying on. It stayed on and drained my battery, so I had to take out the fuse for that. I also replace the transfer case (750.00) recently to, That was on the list, GM will not acknowledge any of these problems. Also I noticed if I move anything electrical like driver seat, steering wheel, I have the problem again, not starting and the security light blinks and have to sit again.
This is VERY ANNOYING. I can't just go and buy another vehicle on a Crossing Guard pay.. I really need a dependable car. This sure doesn't seem to be one.  So if anyone finds out what the cause is please let me know.. I think Electrical..
S. Delp  

on the start and die in one second problem.....

that is part of the pass key system...

if you run into this problem.. you can leave the key in the run positions for just over 10 minutes and it will start...

for some reason its loosing its programming...

do you have any other car ignition keys...  mobil speed pass or other RF device on your key chain???

some additional reading... on the newer... non pellet, RF locks on various cars and trucks...


http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1021


http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=969

as for the courtesy light maintained power relay..how about finding it and posting a part number off its case..

Duralast/Relay - Accessory Power
Part Number: 20274
Notes: Special equipment options. Marked #0332002150

Duralast/Relay - Accessory Power
Part Number: 20099
Notes:Marked #12183612

Duralast/Relay - Courtesy Lamp
For your 1999 Chevrolet Truck K1500 1/2ton Sub 4WD 5.7L SFI 8cyl
Part Number: 19264


the transfer case failure... expensive... which case you have,,,

New Venture model #136/236/246 transfer case
New Process model #243 transfer case
i guess point it moot on that... but.. almost all transfer cases eventually need some kind of service like most other parts that carry heavy loads... and are designed to be as light as possible for the application...   early transfer cases weighed close to 150 to 200 pounds.. i bet that yours weighs 80... it might even be magnesium cased...  

i had the same problem with a 94 jeep grand cherokee , replaced everything you did an come to find out the dist.was 1 tooth off an was causing the timing to be out ....believe it or not it drove me crazy because it was firing good an getting fuel but would start an run for a while an die like it ran out of fuel .... pulled the dist. out an turned it 1 notch an it has ran fine ever since .... CRAZY ...!  

stevexx...  the jeeps have a crankshaft position sensor just like the chevy vortec engines do to control ignition spark timing.. but the chevy vortec motors won't run if the distributer is very far off..     the alarm was probably the problem...   more than likely the ignition switch was failing..  

you can see that one of the switch levers is open.. and the other is closed..   the bar they swing on has power for all the circuits on that side..  the other bar is usually powered from a second wire..

 

I have a  Suburban 1500 also and it just will not start.  All was fine yesterday. I put a little gas in the intake and it started but quickly died as the gas was burned.  What do I need to check first?  Should I disconnect the fuel filter?  

you could have several problems...

first.... is the security light on the dash board staying on after the key is turned on???  if so.. then your alarm system is locking you out of the system...

these trucks have RFID systems built into the key and the RFID receiver .. it will LOCK out the fuel injectors... preventing the engine from running...   so take a look at the security light...

if the Security light is on..... you can bypass it by hooking up a battery charger or hooking up jumper cables to a second car with that car idling... to keep your trucks battery voltage up... turn the trucks ignition key ON.. look at your watch... in exactly 10 minutes of sitting there with the key in the ON... and the other car or charger keeping the battery up...   the security system will let you start the truck once... this is a bypass system to get you home..  


there are other known issues with late 90s gm pickups...

fuel pump relays that have gotten overheated because the OIL pressure switch contacts have failed..

this cuts off power to the fuel pump and you end up with a NO start like you are having..

how to tell...  have somebody listen to the fuel tank... while you turn the key from off to run..  if the fuel pump relay is working.. the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds. then shut off..  so.. how are the pins on the bottom of the fuel pump relay.. burned.. melted...  do you get 2 seconds of fuel pump...   you can also take a rubber mallet and pound on the bottom of the fuel tank while somebody is cranking the truck at the same time..   this will usually get a worn fuel pump spinning if the power is still hooked up properly..

this is the second 99 chevy truck today that had a no start that have been contacted on...