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I know others are having this problem..but is there a class-action against Jeep Chrysler for the defective window regulators in the 2002 Grand cherokee laredo?  I just replace my forth unit..and this getting ridiculous. By the way..I just finished the class action paperwork on their defective brake rotors..they refused to cover under warranty.  

I just had repaired my third window in 8 months at $400 per repair. What the one repairman said to me was that the rubber along the door dries out and rubs against the window, causing it to pop off the track. I can't believe that the dealers can charge that much money for something that is blatantly a manufacturers defect. I would join in the class action to try and recoup all of the money I have had to put out in the last eight months.  

2001 JGC Laredo - my drivers side window just out of the blue made a "pop" noise when I was rolling it up, and then it wouldn't finish rolling up or down.  There's another place on this site where I saw a bunch of different postings about the same problem with 2001.  After I created a login account, now I can't find the other postings.  Anyway, one guy got Chrysler to cut him a reimbursement check for 2 window repair jobs at $400 each.  Routine independent auto repair shops appear to be charging $400, while Jeep dealership is charging more around $750.  Ridiculous - caveat emptor.  I'm contacting Chrysler for my free fix - this is manufacturer defect but they won't offer to pay unless people come to them and ask. Seems that each window goes out in turn just falling like dominoes.  Could get really expensive.  

Your lawsuit is going to go nowhere, your vehicle is almost 5 years old, if you want stuff repalced for free buy a new vehicle every 3/36 otherwise *** breaks...all cars have common problems...look at GM and thier 3.1 and 3.4 lower intake problems, or look at ford and the DPFE sensor...I have been a professional mechanic for a long time and you are wasting your time.....if you hate the problem buy a new car and dont whine...and by the way are you putting mopar parts in or that cheap aftermarket junk...it does make a difference...you get what u pay for in the aftermarkt

Nick
ASE Master Auto Technician, L1  
ASE Master Auto Technician, L1, ASE Certified Service Consultant, ASE Certified Parts Specialist, Chrysler Certified Service Manager/Technician

Nick
With all due respect to your comment about cheap aftermarket parts and the not sporatic but common problem of original Jeep window regulators, evidenced by simple search results on the great www library of information, a bottom line to this occurence is the result of poorly made original parts. Not aftermarket parts.  
There is something inherently wrong in spending $25K + and leaving with a feeling of only 3 years of protection.  No matter what the model.
We as consumers are actually due more than just "make do" products.  

Can anyone tell me where the class action is being brought and who the lead attorneys are? I am now on my third window failure in as many weeks for $400 a crack. This car is only 3 years old and still on lease.  

I would like in on class action as well, just got in my car today and my third window just bit the dust. I am so upset, at $400 a pop this is not an easy proposition.  

First Post to any forum... so any help is appreciated.  02 JGCL both the drivers and drivers rear window regulator is out.  Quoted $350 each from local dealer.  Can anyone tell me "how to" replace these myself?  I have pulled the panel and see the loose cables but could not figure out how to remove the glass from the holder and then remove the entire assembly from the door.  Can anyone give me some tips please.

Hodie  

If you can do this cheaper than we did, let me know.  The regulator cost almost as much as putting the thing in yourself. It was a $200 item if I remember correctly. I will ask my friend who actually did the work how he did it.  

It's actually not that hard. I'm not by any means a mechanic but was able to replace mine myself. I did end up buying the part from the dealership for $230 but it beats the $400 they wanted to replace it. The parts guy actually said that it was a poor design and he's got about 10 cars that are coming in to have the problem fixed. I tried to repair the original regulator but the wire kept getting jammed and I didn't feel like spending to much time on something I wasn't sure was going to work.

wjjeeps.com has instructions on how to get the door panel off and disconnecting some of the parts.

Once you get the panel off, there should be a plastic protective covering caulked/glued to the metal door frame. You can simply pull this off carefully around the caulk so that you can re-use it without buying any additional caulk/glue.

The window is connected to the slide (device that goes up and down on the regulator frame) by two pieces of plastic that have retainer clips in them that you can pull out with a set of needle nose pliers. Unclip these and disconnect the window from the slide, try to jimmy rig the window in place so that it doesn't fall or get in the way.

After the window has been disconnected, unbolt the motor on the regulator (3 silver screws) & and the regulator frame (4 black screws)it should be fairly obvious which ones are for the regulator.

Pull out everything from the hole under the speaker (it may be helpful to disconnect the speaker completely to get it out of the way).

The dealership regulator comes with everything already put together & greased, all you have to do is bolt it in and put the window back on the slide. I didn't have to adjust anything.

Good luck to all.  

If you hear from anyone about the class action against Jeep, let me know also. We are on our third window and our Cherokee is a 2004.  

I guess I'm Lucky.  I have had my 2001 Grand Laredo for about 3 yrs.  My drivers side front started acting up about a month ago.  Dragging and not wanting to go up.  It is still working but needs a helping hand.  My driver's side rear has just broken.  I'm a Fire Fighter and will do anything to save labor cost.  I tore into mine and found the motor to be in fine shape.  The problem is the top end cable connection on the track.  There is a triangular shaped piece of stamped metal that has some sort of pored or molded plastic that holds the top and bottom cable ends. It also is what holds the glass.  I found 3 parts of this plactic broken in the bottom of the door.  It is Sunday and I'm at work. I will be going to the local dealer tomorrow to see if I can order just the piece that has degraded or broken.
   Meanwhile this afternoon I will be going into the front door panel.  I think I just have a cable problem there.  I did notice the driver's rear cable had a kink in it when I finally got the regulator and track out of the vehicle.  NOTE:  I used a wire tie to hold my rear window up until I replace parts.  The rear part of the window slide groove where felt is there is a little clip of some sort that is excellent for looping a wire tie through. The window will be weather tight. A piece sting is need to hold the rods for the electric door locks so they can slide and stay in place.  

Very good job on the instructions.  I used a knife on the caulking and cut near the plastic part leaving the bulk of the caulk on the door facing. I went a little further and located the faulty piece as I stated in my first post.  I was able to remove the piece that holds window.  A window can come out of a track in two ways I think.  One if it is mis-aligned in the front and rear slides and two from the bottom.  I don't what the bottom is called but that is where our problem lies.  That stamped piece of metal looks to have a plastic pored and molded onto the part that holds the top and bottom cable ends.  As I stated, I will try to buy just that part tomorrow and keep eveyone posted on the results.  There is a part number on just that piece that I hope the dealer will be able to supply.  

On Second thought, I read earlier where someone fabricated the cable holder out of a block of aluminum.  He had access to specialized equipment that I don't. The only way to go is to do same with metal.  That cable holder is constant tension. Pored, molded  plastic can't take that.  I'm going to try to fabricate something using washers.  Stack them up and slot for the cable with a dremel tool.  Something else I found was if you operate the window switch with one end of the cable block broken, the cable will mis-align in the cable reel.  Better take the 3 screws out and check the reel. 8mm should do you right.  Good luck to all who have experienced this.  I'll keep ya posted.  

I'm replacing my second window regulator on my 2002 Grand Cherokee.  I agree this is getting rediculous.  Sounds like I have 2 more to go. On the first one, my window fell into my front passenger door on my way to work.  The second one fell while I was at an outlet mall.  Needless to say, anyone could have stolen anything out of my car including my razor phone.